Fuel Tank Removal...

U

unity

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
5,113
Reaction score
27
Location
Green Bay
Ya... search can go suck it. Results included nitrous kits?

Anyway. To replace the pump do I have to go through the trouble of disconnecting the rear lines, etc? I did so last time since the directions said to. Or can I get away with doing the front straps and lines and just tilting it down?

Heading down later to work on it on 82 degree temps. Want to keep it fast and simple!
 
you might get by leaving the rear lines on, but I wouldn't try.
your gonna want to make sure everything is in order.
I'd drag the whole tank out from the car and do it, verifying everything is in the correct spot.

when I did mine at the dragstrip, I only jacked up the passenger side of the car... that is about all the shortcuts I would take in your case.
 
Ya ya... thats what I figured. <sigh> I think I will take the risk and drive 40 minute to the shop to do this then. I don't have the facilities up here to really get it done the right way. I just hope it makes it but I think it will. I will just take the back roads to keep the speed about 45. I dont think it will even go any faster than that!
 
Let me know what they charge you - I'm looking to do this myself but I would rather someone else do it...
 
Sorry, by shop I mean my friends garage that has every tool on the planet. He restores Studebakers. I feel comfortable working there since he either has the tools or the know how.
 
Going by memory, I don't remember having to do anything but disconnect the exhaust and tipping the tank. I don't look forward to doing it again, but I don't remember having to disconnect anything fuel related that didn't attach to the pump cage.
 
Its the exhaust on my car that makes this the biggest pain. I think I may just cut the cross member off that goes behind the trans. Might, for whatever reason, is TIGHT against the trans crossmember.
 
Ok.... all done. I will post more in the pissed of PCM thread. Anyway, I did not drop the exhaust. In fact this was REALLY EASY. All I did is first disconnect the fuel inlet hoses at the inlet pipes, not at the tank. Then I removed the passenger side strap, thats all. Plenty of room to lower and remove the pump, etc. Exhaust was not an issue at all.
 
unity said:
Ok.... all done. I will post more in the pissed of PCM thread. Anyway, I did not drop the exhaust. In fact this was REALLY EASY. All I did is first disconnect the fuel inlet hoses at the inlet pipes, not at the tank. Then I removed the passenger side strap, thats all. Plenty of room to lower and remove the pump, etc. Exhaust was not an issue at all.
Click to expand...

Unity, what year is your MarkVIII? I have to do a fuel pump on my 98 but it has the twin tail pipes. I notice the two pipes join together on the drivers side, so I am wondering if I can get away with what you did, lowering the right side of the tank.
 
98 no way your replacing the fuel pump without dropping the pipes. Very easy to pull out the pipes 4 bolts at the cats and two at the trans crossmember then undo the rubber hangers. Dont forget the three O2 sensor wires.
 
With two pipes it may not be possible. Someone would have to try it. Sure saved me a TON of time though. I did not even have it jacked up very far.
 
Thats right. I cannt imagine triing to do that with the gen 2. Is the pump in the front of the tank like the 98. I'm still saying no way on 98 lsc.
 
Thanks guys. I haven't examined thoroghly under there. But it looks like the right side tailpipe runs left aft of the tank then both pipes run parallel on the drivers side and they appear to run close or maybe even clear of the drivers side edge of the gas tank. But you guys have actually been under there before so you are saying I definitely have to remove exhaust pipes?

But regressing, I need to ask some more questions as the situation might have changed.

Car is standard stock 98 model with 150K miles. Noticed it shut down at idle after cranking a couple times a few weeks ago, but then started back fine and ran fine as usual. Tuesday the wife was shopping, came out, it did the shutdown thing a couple times, then started and she backed halfway out of the space and it shutdown for good. Car towed home and and a part-time mechanic friend came over to help. Pressing the test valve on the fuel rail there was very little flow coming out, even while cranking the starter.
Fuel pump definitely running but friend stated the gas flow should be way higher so we assumed weak pump.

However, today I changed the fuel filter (it was highly plugged compared to the new one) and now gas skeets from the port forcefully but car still will not start. It will almost fire for a split second but never quite enough.

Friend is on vacation now for a week, so I want to do a real pressure test on the pump. What are the specs for the factory pump at the test port? And what kind of adapter do I need to test for since I have a fuel pressure gage with only a rubber hose and cone fitting on it?

Are there any other things I need to try to get it started given that the fuel flow was starved and we have been cranking it for a couple days? Do the lines need air bleeding, since I removed the filter?

Also what is the gizmo on the passenger side of the fuel rail that looks like a pressure regulator only smaller?
 
Not sure on the exact pressure I believe it is in the 30-40 psi at idle. Also no you shouldnt have to bleed any air out of the lines due to the return style fuel system.
 
htrdlincoln98 said:
Thats right. I cannt imagine triing to do that with the gen 2. Is the pump in the front of the tank like the 98. I'm still saying no way on 98 lsc.
Click to expand...

I did not, do not know how different they are. I thought they were the same. Pump is at front of tank on the passenger side. I actually lowered mind and brought it out towards the back. Did not have the hang-up issue with the sending unit like I did when I brought it out forward towards the front of the car.
 
Yes, 30ish to 40ish depending on throttle. Really 32 is minimum I think.

You can get a fuel pressure gauge that will come with all the adapter, not sure if they are sold separate or not.

Did you disconnect the battery? Maybe the car was pulling a long injector pulse width due to lack of fuel, now there is too much fuel. Doubt it, but a guess.
 
Thanks folks. I haven't gotten to the pressure test yet. I suppose I will have to buy a gage as I don't have time to order an adapter.

A question about the fuel pressure regulator. Is there any chance if that is not holding pressure, it could cause non starting? I have heard if fuel pressure is low, you can close off the return line to see if pressure rises to test if it is the pump or the regulator, but does this come into play before starting, or only while running?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 1,556 (members: 0, guests: 1,556)
Back
Top