front brake job - caliper anchor plate (Cradle) bolts/pins lubrication

[91 LSC SE]

Hi Everyone, I read the tech article and wondered why it wasn't mentioned to remove the rubber boot that secures the caliper cradle slider bolts/pins on each end and coat them with anti-seize lubricant, then replace?
The two bolts that hold the caliper in place, go into these bolts/pins that I'm referring to. This keeps the pins from sticking and wearing out just one pad.

There was no mention of using a wire brush to remove dirt/rust in the cradle where the pad ends sit and then putting anti-seize lubricant where the pad ends sit in the cradle. This would help them move back and forth when the brakes are applied.

Is standard 101 for brakes or am I missing something?

 

[Lownslowlsc]

It should be mentioned, not sure why it isn't.

 

[91 LSC SE]

It should be mentioned, not sure why it isn't.

Is there anyway to get the tech article updated to include these two points?

 

[chris2523]

pm an admin, 94m5 (mike) can probably help out.

 

[jake_black94]

I've found that the Marks are particularly picky about the type of brake lubricant you use - anti-seize isn't technically even a lube. I'd use Sil-Glyde (which you can find at NAPA or Advance, typically) or the Permatex "Ceramic Extreme" lubricant.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Thanks Jake!

I have always used the ant-seize. It was recommended by a mechanic I first seen do a brake job and thinking about it, it hasn't worked overly well on any of the brakes I've used it on. I have had to always go back and re-do once or twice, it like lubing the suspension. Thought it was what needed to be done. My auto shop class taught us to use high temp wheel bearing grease, so I thought this was better.
I will pick up what you recommend and redo the slider pins - can it be used on the pad "ears" as well or will that get onto the rotors?