Engine running HOTT question

free139stylz

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hey my engine has been running hot sometimes the guage temp goes all the way up to H all I do is turn my car off and back on and its fine yall think it could be an eletrical problem?
 
yea so if its on H and I turn it off and on and it goes back to the middle that means my engine isnt running hott rite? or is it? I thought maybe it was a fan shutting off or somthing of the sort
 
free139stylz said:
yea so if its on H and I turn it off and on and it goes back to the middle that means my engine isnt running hott rite? or is it? I thought maybe it was a fan shutting off or somthing of the sort

Check your fluids first. If that's not it, then I hope you have $$ saved.
 
My LS was doing the same thing. The temp would go to hot and the car would go into engine reduced power mode. Usually all I had to do is shut it off for a few seconds and it would go back to normal. It started out doing this occasionally and then after a few weeks it was doing it everytime I drove it. It was always accompanied by the high pitched moaning of my fan which sounded like it was spinning so fast it was going to come apart. Last friday I changed the thermosat and purged the air out of my coolant system. I don't think my problem was a stuck thermostat. I think my problem is that air is somehow getting into the cooling system and when the pockets of steam would get near the coolant temp sensor it was whacking it out. My car has not messed up a single time since I purged the system. Before you take it to a garage I would try removing the air from the coolant system.
 
Thanks man I think that is the problem..... well I did just get my car back from the lincoln dealer ship and they broke my steering rack told me I broke it and it would cost a g for them to fix, but they broke it when they towed it so they said they are gonna look at it on saturday..... do you think the could have messed my thermostat up to?
 
1. Remove engine fill cap http://home.fuse.net/fishbone1/p2t.jpg
2. On 3.0L emgines open engine air bleed http://home.fuse.net/fishbone1/p2c.jpg
3. On all engines open the heater airbleed http://home.fuse.net/fishbone1/p2b.jpg
4. add coolant to the degas bottle allowing stem to equalize till no more coolant can be added
5. On 3.ol engines close the engine airbleed when coolant begins to escape
6. On all engines Replace the degas bottle cap
7. On 3.9 engines Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater aur bleed will remain open. http://home.fuse.net/fishbone1/p3b.jpg
8. Repalce the engine fill cap
9. On all engines The heater airbleed reamins open. Start the engine and turn the heater to Max position. http://home.fuse.net/fishbone1/p4t.jpg
10. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it during engine idle.
11. Idle for 5 minutes. add coolant as needed to maintain cold fill Max mark
12. Reopen the heater air bleed to rlease any trapped air and close again
13. On 3.9 engines maintain an engine speed of 2000rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater
14. then return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater
15.On 3.0 engines Maintain engine speed of 1500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater
16. then return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater
17. On all engines set the heater temp to 75 F and allow the vehicle to idle for 2 minutes
18. shut the engine down and allow to cool
19. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring level back to cold fill Max mark.

Hope this helps.
 
I would suggest taking a look at the other threads pertaining to this question. People have had problems with their hydraulic cooling fan pump, thermostat, bad pressure relief cap, and air in the cooling system. If you're worried about your fan not working......check the fan at idle and then turn the AC on. Your fan should kick onto its higher speed. If it doesn't, it is most likely your fan pump or motor. To check to see if it is the motor, check the fan by freewheeling it........if it spins with little to no resistance, it is good and your pump is most likely bad (this is what was wrong with mine). As for checking for air in the system, follow the instructions already given to you. To check the tstat, once the car has reached operating temp, feel the lower and upper hoses........if one is hot and the other is cold, it is your thermostat.

I would suggest, if you come to no conclusions with what we have provided, take it to a dealer and have them run some diagnostics with the computer which will tell you if everything electrical is working. Most of the mechanical stuff mentioned in the 1st paragraph can be done by you.......electrical requires a computer.

Also, where does your car overheat? That should help people out as to eliminating a few of the potential problems. Also, your thermostat has nothing to do with your steering rack and there is no way to mess up a thermostat.....those tend to mess themselves up.
 
It overheats at random times like one day I just had it sitting in my drive way then it went all he way to hot and said reduce engine performance or somthing like that but then i was driving like 30 and it did it another day and it did it when i was going down the high way but it hasent messed up in like 5 days at all so I dunno it might have just been an eletrical problem because the dealer ship messed my stuff up when im driving down the road my controls on the steering wheel for the radio get all mixed up like volume up will be the track change button and down will be up it gets all mixed up but as soon as i turn my car off and on it fixes it self so i dunno what the dealer ship did..
 

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