differences in 4.6's

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4.6powa

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ok.... so its kinda related...

this weekend i am swapping blown engine out of my fathers mark, for a good one...
i bought a 68' mustang and want to put a 03-04 cobra motor, mach 1 motor 99-01 cobra motor... something like that in it... (a newer dohc)

how different are the old 4.6 blacks (mark) from the new 4.6 blocks?

i want to tear the blown motor apart, and use the shell to use as a dummy motor
 
I assume you're talking about the outside dimensions... in which case, all 4.6L blocks are pretty much the same in concerns to major dimensions. Things such as pulley lay out/front timing cover are different, and very early 4.6L's (town car) run the AOD bolt pattern... also, Continental 4.6L's run a FWD bolt pattern
 
If you are gonna build a motor the mark viii block is one of the best to use, if not the best. all blocks are the same except cont and early towncar like nate said. Differences from early to 99 dohc were the heads and intakes. cobras use a forged crank with 8 flywheel bolts instead of 6 like the mark and mustang gt use.
 
Also changed mains caps in 99; did away with the side jack screws. All blocks (alum, windsor and romeo) use different mains bearings. Otherwise dimensionally it's all the same.
 
The key item here is if you want the strongest block, then it was the Teksid block that Ford bought from Teksid, which was a subsidiary of Fiat in Italy. They developed alot of advanced casting techniques with High Strength Aluiminum, and they are easily recognizes by the ribbing in the valley. TGhis block was in all Gen 1 & Gen 2 Marks as well as others in the FOMOCO line. SHM has a book that you can buy that gets into all the details.

I would also suggest you go with the "C" style heads as they will allow you more options for fuel air delivery. See these guys for some ideas. I used to run a Boss 302 and had both "Cross Boss" setups, plus a Bud Moore Mini Plenum.

http://www.karkraft.com/carb_modular_parts.htm
 
Roadboss said:
The key item here is if you want the strongest block, then it was the Teksid block that Ford bought from Teksid, which was a subsidiary of Fiat in Italy. They developed alot of advanced casting techniques with High Strength Aluiminum, and they are easily recognizes by the ribbing in the valley. TGhis block was in all Gen 1 & Gen 2 Marks as well as others in the FOMOCO line. SHM has a book that you can buy that gets into all the details.

I would also suggest you go with the "C" style heads as they will allow you more options for fuel air delivery. See these guys for some ideas. I used to run a Boss 302 and had both "Cross Boss" setups, plus a Bud Moore Mini Plenum.

http://www.karkraft.com/carb_modular_parts.htm
Click to expand...

+1 on the Teksid block. Best of the aluminum 4.6l blocks. And on the C heads.
 
Also should be noted that sean hyland now carries their own alum blocks which are said to be even stronger than the teksid... but they are a pretty penny.

For ultimate strength, a cast iron block is the route to go, but it costs you in weight.

As I recall, B heads actually have a better flow capacity at high RPM/high lift than the C heads. The C heads make their money by being strong throughout the powerband. At one time patriot performance sold CNC'ed 99-01 C heads, no core required. They may have stopped though.

Last thing to be noted for anyone looking to build a nice engine... the aluminum blocks are dry sleeved with iron cylinder sleeves... these can be replaced with larger sleeves, allowing 5.0L displacement. You can also reach your 5.0L through a stroker kit... or run both and get a clean 5.2L displacement!
 
last I heard, they are getting about $2000 for one of their preped alum blocks. Factoring in it will cost you $500-$700 to have a used teksid reset to spec (line-hone, sleeved, decked), you'll save between $1100 and $1300. And generally they say the teksid will handle somewhere beyond 1000HP. That's getting into a ball park where "typical" street driving doesn't exist.
 
have you planned on getting the 68 a new front subframe?
if not youll need to look at one. A DOHCammer will not fit into a stock 68 without major modifaction. This is the front end we used in a 70 vert conversion cobra. http://www.martzchassis.net/

dont want to scare ya but just let you know. and as for brakes and everything else you might as well use the cobra donor car and all brake components to use the hydroboost. any questions about the install, feel free to pm me as i can get pics and more details.
 
was going to run a mustang II front suspension... turns out there is no hole in this block.... maybe if its ok, i will end up using it... the mark viii's are all teksid.. correct?
 
go with the griggs front set up cant beat it. I have a 66 coupe but am going mor conventinal with a 408w
 
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