tireman
Dedicated LVC Member
01 V6 LS DCCV Installation
time 4 hours
tools needed screwdriver, large needle nose vise grip, medium needle nose vice grip, allen wrench (not really needed), socket wrench.
1. Remove plastic beauty cover over radiator. 4 nylon push rivets
2. Remove plastic air channel between air filter and throttle body
3. Under radiator in front of DCCV loosen white plastic drain cock. Drain cock does not come all the way out; it just hangs there loose.
4. With shallow basin below drain cock remove the reservoir cap.
5. Let antifreeze drain out.
6. Remove 3 bolt radiator end plate which covers the upper radiator hose.
7. Remove the upper radiator hose at the radiator and move it out of the way.
8. Remove the air conditioner dryer clamp and remove clamp. The dryer can be moved back and forth to get room to work.
9. Remove electrical connectors at fan cover and DCCV. Push the red bar on back to expose the thumb tab and press down on tab release, pull connecters apart. Pull the connector wire plug out of fan cover to remove the entire connector so you do not damage it while working.
10. The two forward hoses on the DCCV connect to the lower water pump and center water pipe just below the bleed screw. Remove at the water pump and below the bleed screw. I found this easier than trying to unhook the hoses from underneath the vehicle. Open the bleed screw by turning counter clockwise ¼ turn and lifting at the same time.
11. On the three rearward DCCV hoses you can opt to pay $27 for 3 female quick connect clips or remove the hose clamps at the DCCV. I chose to remove the hose clamps. There are 3 quick connect joints on the rearward hoses. Not sure how well they are made. All plastic and I’m afraid to break them.
12. Reach in with the long nosed vice grips and detach the two upper hoses, remove hoses and push out of the way.
13. Reach in with shorter long nose vice grips and detach the lower rearward hose. Mine had the clamp on sideways toward the firewall. There was just enough room to reach in backwards with the vice grips and loosen the clamp and remove the hose.
14. Remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the DCCV. Not the ones on the fender bracket.
15. Pull the DCCV with two hoses attached.
16. Put it back together using 2 inch worm clamps, somewhat easier, and much easier if you have to work on it again. Careful with the drain cock,,,,too much torque on tightening will break the plastic, I broke mine with little effort. You can still use the allen wrench to tighten the cock if you break the plastic nut head off.
17. Bleed system and test your work.
I found that by putting in less antifreeze the car ran cooler and seemed to have more horsepower. From what I’ve read, antifreeze is heavier than plain water and takes more energy to move it thru the engine. You do need antifreeze in the northern states and it also provides lubrication. I have added water wetter for super cooling and anticorrosive. Plus I have about 15% anti freeze.
Next I will cut open the DCCV and see how it works. Will report my findings.
time 4 hours
tools needed screwdriver, large needle nose vise grip, medium needle nose vice grip, allen wrench (not really needed), socket wrench.
1. Remove plastic beauty cover over radiator. 4 nylon push rivets
2. Remove plastic air channel between air filter and throttle body
3. Under radiator in front of DCCV loosen white plastic drain cock. Drain cock does not come all the way out; it just hangs there loose.
4. With shallow basin below drain cock remove the reservoir cap.
5. Let antifreeze drain out.
6. Remove 3 bolt radiator end plate which covers the upper radiator hose.
7. Remove the upper radiator hose at the radiator and move it out of the way.
8. Remove the air conditioner dryer clamp and remove clamp. The dryer can be moved back and forth to get room to work.
9. Remove electrical connectors at fan cover and DCCV. Push the red bar on back to expose the thumb tab and press down on tab release, pull connecters apart. Pull the connector wire plug out of fan cover to remove the entire connector so you do not damage it while working.
10. The two forward hoses on the DCCV connect to the lower water pump and center water pipe just below the bleed screw. Remove at the water pump and below the bleed screw. I found this easier than trying to unhook the hoses from underneath the vehicle. Open the bleed screw by turning counter clockwise ¼ turn and lifting at the same time.
11. On the three rearward DCCV hoses you can opt to pay $27 for 3 female quick connect clips or remove the hose clamps at the DCCV. I chose to remove the hose clamps. There are 3 quick connect joints on the rearward hoses. Not sure how well they are made. All plastic and I’m afraid to break them.
12. Reach in with the long nosed vice grips and detach the two upper hoses, remove hoses and push out of the way.
13. Reach in with shorter long nose vice grips and detach the lower rearward hose. Mine had the clamp on sideways toward the firewall. There was just enough room to reach in backwards with the vice grips and loosen the clamp and remove the hose.
14. Remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the DCCV. Not the ones on the fender bracket.
15. Pull the DCCV with two hoses attached.
16. Put it back together using 2 inch worm clamps, somewhat easier, and much easier if you have to work on it again. Careful with the drain cock,,,,too much torque on tightening will break the plastic, I broke mine with little effort. You can still use the allen wrench to tighten the cock if you break the plastic nut head off.
17. Bleed system and test your work.
I found that by putting in less antifreeze the car ran cooler and seemed to have more horsepower. From what I’ve read, antifreeze is heavier than plain water and takes more energy to move it thru the engine. You do need antifreeze in the northern states and it also provides lubrication. I have added water wetter for super cooling and anticorrosive. Plus I have about 15% anti freeze.
Next I will cut open the DCCV and see how it works. Will report my findings.
