First off I know this has been discussed many times here but I can not after hours of searching find my answer so I will ask for help. Here is the deal I have been going through my system to find out why the fan won't switch to high and I have finally narrowed it down to the the actuator not getting power. The reason I say this is because I jumped the actuator with the battery directly and the fan kicked up to high. Now the question is why is the actuator not getting power from the connector? Can someone please let me know if it has a fuse or relay that I can check? Any info will be appriciated thanks. Oh it is a 2001 Lincoln LS V6 and I am new to this forum.
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Cooling Fan Actuator
- Thread starter johng1976
- Start date
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
Not good. According to the wiring diagram, it gets power from F1.05, a 20amp fuse in the engine compartment box. That also powers your injectors and MAF sensor, so the fuse is probably OK.
Check for power on the Green/Yellow pin when the key is in Run. If no power, then there's a break between the junction box and that connector. If there is power, then the PCM is not able to switch the other connector to ground. It's a PWM switch to ground, so not easy to debug. Hopefully just a broken wire. That one runs along the passenger wheel well which does tend to be a problem area.
The other thing is the fan may just not need to go on high. The easy test is start the car when cold and ensure the A/C is turned off. Note fan speed. Turn on A/C. Fan should speed up noticeably.
It *could* still be the actuator. Since it's pulsed, if the actuator is "sticky", then it won't operate properly but may be able to open when it gets full power. That should only happen in relatively rare scenarios.
Anyway, it's either a wiring break or a fault within the PCM, or a subtle problem with the actuator.
Check for power on the Green/Yellow pin when the key is in Run. If no power, then there's a break between the junction box and that connector. If there is power, then the PCM is not able to switch the other connector to ground. It's a PWM switch to ground, so not easy to debug. Hopefully just a broken wire. That one runs along the passenger wheel well which does tend to be a problem area.
The other thing is the fan may just not need to go on high. The easy test is start the car when cold and ensure the A/C is turned off. Note fan speed. Turn on A/C. Fan should speed up noticeably.
It *could* still be the actuator. Since it's pulsed, if the actuator is "sticky", then it won't operate properly but may be able to open when it gets full power. That should only happen in relatively rare scenarios.
Anyway, it's either a wiring break or a fault within the PCM, or a subtle problem with the actuator.
pragmatic
Dedicated LVC Member
I also could get mine to run on high when powered directly from the battery. I posted here :
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=75263
and in:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=64394
Wiring diagram can be found at:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=74981&postcount=28
Never did get around to troubleshooting it. Right now I'm still doing front end repairs from an accident. If I everget around to fixing it I'll post.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=75263
and in:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=64394
Wiring diagram can be found at:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=74981&postcount=28
Never did get around to troubleshooting it. Right now I'm still doing front end repairs from an accident. If I everget around to fixing it I'll post.
Tell me if I am crazy but I replaced the thermostate just to find that this car did not have one at all, but once I was done replacing the thermostate and flushing the system the cooling fan started to operate normally.
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
Yeah........
A PO probably did that to try to cover up an overheating problem. Watch it carefully.
A PO probably did that to try to cover up an overheating problem. Watch it carefully.