Check Engine Light... Still

MatthewDavid

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Ok my last thread went a little crazy... it turned into something about Autozone... which I would never shop at anyways...

Ok... I haven't had a chance to scan our car yet... but I have noticed a few new things... one... it only shudders when you accelerate... and also at low RPM's it makes the stereo tick... it's really weird... I don't know if this is gonna help but maybe... tomorrow I'm gonna do what chicken told me... and unhook the battery for a bit and take it for a drive...

I was also wondering with that vacuum leak could've it done anything bad?... also we let a friend borrow the car about a week and a half ago and they put gas in... could the quality of gas did something?... I only put premium V Power usually... but I'm just searchin for answers... I'm gonna try and get it scanned tomorrow too... but hopefully
 
cant help you until you get that code pulled.

its clearly a misfire. we need to know what coil is bad.
 
ive gotten a check engine light from bad gas before......but like vr4 said sounds like u got a misfire
 
If you have a tick, then there is a bad ignition wire. Your radio is picking up the EMI
 
I agree with everyone its a misfire, my car did this when I had a bad coil. Not sure what year you have, but the code should tell you what coil.
 
If you have a tick, then there is a bad ignition wire. Your radio is picking up the EMI



hes a 2G so no plug wires. though a failed COP will tend to emit excess RFI too.

i recently had 2 bad coils really screw up ETB operation on a 3 valve 5.4
no misfire though.
 
I agree, get the codes read.

If I had a gen 2, I'd replace all the coil boots as soon as I got it, weather they are bad or not, just to be sure. They are cheap, and I'd save any of the old ones that "looked good" for spares.

I've read about people having trouble with these boots many times, so I wouldn't trust any old ones in my car.

While I was changing the boots, I'd carefully inspect all the coils for cracks, corrosion or anything else that looks bad.

I'm not saying that this is your problem now but, it's cheap and easy and you won't have to worry about problems with them in the near future.
 
Ok... Coils... that's cool... so what kinda should I get is there any different in them?... and how much should I be lookin to spend on these?... I was gonna change out all the coils and wires... when I did a spark plug change... it's gettin up around 75,000 miles so I figured I should anyways... also how hard is it to change plugs?... to I have to remove a lot to get to them?
 
The coils themselves can be pretty expensive. The coil boots are cheap, I've seen prices of about 3-5 bucks apeice. I'd inspect the coils and boots first before buying all new coils.

Your car dosen't have spark plug wires. The closest thing you have to spark plug wires are the coil boots. The coils and boots are easy to get to. They are under the cover plate on top of the cam/valve covers. The spark plugs are connected to the boots which are connected to the coils.
 
My bad, thought it was a Gen1. The boots can definately make the engine misfire. Especially if they come in contact with oil. It makes them expand, thereby losing their seal around the plug. Also, make sure there is no dielectric grease on the plug, and transfer coil.
 
hi again lol, as for inspecting the boots, when mine failed and i pulled the coil the boot disintegrated, if this is your only mode of transportation i would get the boots before i pull ANYTHING and just save the old ones for spares. dont wanna see you in the same boat i was in, i DIDNT have boots and pulled cyl #3 coil and the boot was about the consistency of oatmeal, luckily at work someone had a old (but good) boot off of a 3.0 dohc taurus that i was able to modify enough to get home and back the next day, when the parts showed up
 
I can't find any other prices on line right now but, Rockauto.com has them for $7.74 a peice.

Sorry, I was a few bucks off, but shop around, I'm sure you can find them cheaper than that.
 

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