Check charging system!! 2000 ls v8

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jaysar27

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problem. charging system light comes on, then I rev up the engine a little or give it gas, and it goes away until i come to a stop or slow down. My car just died because of of dead battery. I took the battery to have it checked and it was good. I figure it must be the alternator? Is there anything else I should check before I go buy an alternator?

Also, does anyone have any tips or diagrams on how to change the 2000 lincoln ls v8 alternator?

thanks in advance.
 
SECTION 414-02: Generator and Regulator 2000 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 03/07/2002

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Generator—3.9L
Removal

Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.
Remove the air intake tube. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
Relieve the accessory drive belt tension and move the belt off the generator pulley. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05.
Raise the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
Remove the front lower splash shield.

Remove the lower RH splash shield.

Remove the A/C suction line clip from the radiator core support.

Remove the LH A/C suction line lower bracket bolt and position the bracket rearward.

NOTE: The A/C suction line may need to be positioned rearward to ease generator removal.

Remove the top nut and through bolt.

Remove the lower bolts.

Turn the generator slightly to access the generator positive cable nut and remove the nut.

Lower the generator slightly and disconnect the electrical connector.

Remove the generator.
Rotate the generator to gain access for removal.
Remove the generator.
Installation

Position the generator and connect the electrical connector.

Rotate generator to gain access to the generator positive terminal and install cable and nut.

Install the generator and tighten in the sequence shown.
Loosely assemble the pivot bolt and nut.
Install the expanding bushing and bolt assembly in two stages.
Stage 1: Tighten the bolt to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees.
Install the bolt.

Install the LH A/C section line lower bracket and bolt.

Install the A/C suction line clip into the radiator core support.

Install the lower RH splash shield.

Install the front lower splash shield.
Lower the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
Install the accessory drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05.
Install the air intake tube. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
Connect the battery cable ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.

sorry the pics didnt come up, but it looks like fun
p.s. this is from the ford tech site
 
wow! thank you for the information and quick response. Time to get started. wish me luck!

thanks again
 
alternator finally out

well i got the alt. out, finally. That was a pain. Well not that bad, just so much oil. It was caked my alternator. Is it possible if I clean it up with some electrical cleaner, that it might work. Never mind, I will just go buy one.:):D

Also, I noticed alot of build up (oil, I think) coming from above the alt. but I can't seem to find it when im looking from the top. Any ideas?

One last thing, my power steering res. and my fan clutch res. are pink!:eek: It looks like strawberry milk. I have no idea why this is happening. Is there anything else I should check or replace while my engine is almost stripped?:rolleyes:

thanks
 
You are a better DIY than me. I was able to get the bolts out, but mine would NOT budge last year. Even drove it a few miles to the dealer with NO bolts..and it was still tight.

$228 later, they got it out, and put in the Palladium (motorcraft rebuild) that I obtained from AutoZone or Advance.

That one failed 2 weeks ago..10 months after the install.

Lifetime replacement..but you have to bring in the old one for them to give you another.

I opted to not go back that route. Took it to Pep Boys who charged $78 to remove it, and replace it with a $150 Duralast rebuild. Yes, rolling the dice again with a rebuild vs simply forking over 125% more for a new Motorcraft or Bosch unit.

If it lasts me 2-3 more years..I'll be fine.
 
jaysar27 said:
Also, I noticed alot of build up (oil, I think) coming from above the alt. but I can't seem to find it when im looking from the top. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Hmmm...mine is a V6, not a V8, but I know that the V8's are prone to valve cover oil leaks. Perhaps yours is leaking and getting blown around the front of the motor. Is the oil level ever low when you go to change the oil, like it is losing a fair amount?
 
Just got back from the getting rebuilt alt. I think I found the oil leak exactly where you stated. My valve cover bolts are a loose. Can anyone tell me what I should torque them to? I don't have a manual. I can't seem to find one anywhere at the local auto shops, so I will probably have to fork out the money soon and go buy one at the dealer. If anyone knows where I can get a cheaper one, that would be great. Or where I can get the specs from? I will have to wait to put the alt. in because there is know way I want to take it out again. So any info would be great. Also, my lincoln has 181,000. I have had to

replace the battery
alternator
coils, a couple of them twice
transmission, some bearing or seal had to be replaced 800 bucks
oil, of course
plugs
brakes, ect. ect.

thats pretty much it.

But, I still don't know why my power steering reservoir and fan cluth res. looks like stawberry milk.

thanks again
 
Torque em till you round the heads off. Torque wrenches are for little girls! :D

I don't have an answer for you, I am sure that one of the gurus here will. I have a sneaking supicion that it might not be as easy as just tightening them down. You might be in for a gasket change. Obviously just try tightening them first, but if that doesn't solve it, things get a little uglier.

Not sure about the stawberry milk, it sounds like water got into the resivour and got churned up...
 
hi again :) heres all the eng torque specs

Torque Specifications Description Nm lb-ft lb-in
Intake manifold bolts 25 18 —
Throttle body bolts 9 — 80
Thermostat housing bolts 9 — 80
EVR solenoid bolts 6 — 53
EGR valve bolts 25 18 —
EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube nuts 40 30 —
Engine compartment brace bolts 9 — 80
Valve cover bolts 10 — 89
Fuel line bracket bolt 11 — 97
Oil level indicator tube nut 6 — 53
Power steering pump reservoir upper bolt 6 — 53
Power steering pump reservoir lower bolt 12 — 106
Wiring harness bolts 11 — 97
Ignition coil bolts 5 — 44
Coil cover bolts 5 — 44
Evaporative emission purge valve bracket nuts 10 — 89
Wiring harness nuts 11 — 97
Cylinder head bolts a — —
Fresh air box nuts 10 — 89
Fresh air duct nuts 10 — 89
Wiring harness bracket bolts 5 — 44
Hydraulic cooling fan reservoir upper bolt 6 — 53
Hydraulic cooling fan reservoir lower bolt 12 — 106
EGR tube bracket bolts 11 — 97
Crankshaft pulley bolt a — —
Idler pulley bolts 25 18 —
Engine front cover bolts a — —
Power steering pump bracket bolts 25 18 —
Hydraulic cooling fan pump bracket bolts 25 18 —
Power steering pressure line nuts 10 — 89
Lower radiator hose bolts 10 — 89
Water pump bolts a — —
Water pump pulley bolts a — —
Timing chain tensioner bolts 11 — 97
Camshaft sprocket bolts a — —
Timing chain guide bolts 11 — 97
Timing chain tensioner arm bolts 11 — 97
Crankshaft position sensor bolt 10 — 89
Camshaft bearing cap bolts a — —
Exhaust manifold bolts 25 18 —
Exhaust manifold to catalytic converter nuts 40 30 —
Camshaft position sensor bolt 11 — 97
Cylinder head temperature sensor 11 — 97
Power steering pump bolts 25 18 —
Oil filter b — —
Oil filter adapter bolts 25 18 —
Oil pan bolts a — —
Oil pan drain plug 23 17 —
Oil pump bolts a — —
Oil pump screen cover and tube bolts 10 — 89
Flexplate spacer nuts 38 28 —
Engine mount to frame bolts 40 30 —
Engine mount bracket to cylinder block bolts 46 34 —
Upper to lower cylinder block bolts a — —
Connecting rod cap bolts a — —
Oil sump bolts a — —
Knock sensor bolts 20 15 —
Oil pan bolts a — —
Heated oxygen sensor bracket bolts 6 — 53
Generator bolts and nut a — —
Transmission to engine bolts 47 35 —
Transmission wiring harness nuts 10 — 89
Power steering line bracket bolt 20 15 —
Transmission cooler line nuts 10 — 89
Cowl panel support bracket bolts 9 — 80
A/C compressor bracket bolts 25 18 —
A/C compressor bolts 25 18 —
Water crossover bolts 11 — 97
Oil cooler assembly 25 18 —
A/C high pressure line 8 — 71
Starter bracket nut 10 — 89
A/C manifold nut 21 15 —
Sub-frame bolts 103 76 —
Steering coupling bolt 35 26 —
Cooling fan line bracket bolt 10 — 89
Lower strut mount bolts 175 129 —
Upper ball joint nuts 90 66 —
Sway bar link nuts 55 41 —
Starter motor wiring harness nut 6 — 53
Oil cooler bolts 58 43 —
Shift cable bracket bolt 10 — 89
Heater hose bracket bolt 10 — 89
Ground strap bolt 10 — 89
Radiator support bracket bolts 10 — 89
Cylinder block flanged plug 20 + 10 degrees 15 + 10 degrees —
Water jacket plug 25 18 —
M30 cylinder block plugs 50 37 —
EGR heat shield bolts 10 — 89
EGR valve adapter bolts 10 — 89
Radio interference capacitor nuts 6 — 53
Inlet tube support bracket bolts 11 — 97
Drive belt tensioner bolt 50 37 —

a Refer to procedure for staged torque.
b Install the oil filter until the seal makes contact. Tighten an additional 270 degrees.
 
If the PS fluid looks like milk its probably long past time to change it. Might want to take that in for a flush. Also check the hoses on the fan reservoir for leaks. That sits right over top of the alternator, I would suspect that first and foremost.
 
:eek: I got the alternator in, finally. Thanks everyone for the help. It was running fine for a couple of days, and then, all of the sudden my abs tractions system starts beeping and flashing on and off. Then my charging system light comes on again and poof.... my batteries dead once again. Same problem. I don't know what it might be. But this time by abs traction system did not stop blinking or beeping.

Maybe I could of have gotten a bad alternator? It was refurbished from autozone. Any ideas?

I guess I will start taking out the alternator again. Not fun.
Thanks again
 
nope. stupid me. Im kinda new to this diy stuff. so any help would be appreciated. how do i test it with a volt meter?

Could it be my water pump pulley? If the water pump is bad? Belt? Im stumped.

thanks
 
It was refurbished from autozone.
Click to expand...
Yeah that's the problem...

No, im kiddin. Check the connections on the battery. Make sure the posts are nice and clean, no corrosion.

To test the alternator output voltage, first off you need a voltmeter. If you dont have one, buy one. They're useful when it comes to this DIY stuff. You put the positive lead from the VOM on the positive terminal of the battery, negative lead on the negative terminal. If it reads less than 12v with the engine running, the alternator is bad.
Now next time you have a charging system problem, take the alternator in and have it TESTED before you buy a new one.
Another tip: NEVER BUY REMANUFACTURED ALTERNATORS!!!! They suck, bottom line. I put 3 in my Cadillac in a 2 year span because I was too cheap to buy a new AC Delco unit. Spend the extra money, once youre sure the alternator is the problem and buy a real Original Equipment alternator. In this case it would be Motorcraft.
 
take that autozone alt and throw it at the wall!!! you should get around 14 volts at the battery when running, your abs/trac light is on cuz the abs computer sees low voltage and most important never NEVER go to autozone!!!!!!!!!
 
Yep, confirmed! They gave me a bad alternator. It failed!:mad: And then the guy says, this looks like the original.:mad: LIke I was trying to scam him or something. I just about threw that thing at him. Anyways, here we go again. When this one goes out, I guess I have to go to the dealer. Unless anyone has some suggestions where I can get one for a good price.

Also, can someone please give me the specs and diagrams on how to flush my fan clutch reservoir and power steering. I would appreciate it. Thanks to everyone for the replies. :cool:

Thanks again
 
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