changing oil pan gasket 2004 LS 3.9

[jerrym3]

I decided to replace my LS leaking oil pan gasket on my own.

I'm from the "old school" of backyard mechanics, and the gasket I bought for the LS looks nothing like the old flat cork type gaskets from years ago.

I'd appreciate any "do's" and "don't's" before I drop the pan.

For example, is there a special sealant for this type of gasket? Since it's so "formed", does it even need adhesive?

Thanks

 

[jjcool00]

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?41784-bad-oil-pan

http://deneau.info/ls/

Go to Engine... then oil pan. I'm not sure how to link directly.

 

[jerrym3]

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?41784-bad-oil-pan

http://deneau.info/ls/

Go to Engine... then oil pan. I'm not sure how to link directly.

Thanks. Good info.

How critical is the torqueing?

I don't have a T wrench that small.

 

[joegr]

Thanks. Good info.

How critical is the torqueing?

I don't have a T wrench that small.

How critical is it to you that it not leak anymore?

 

[jerrym3]

How critical is it to you that it not leak anymore?

I didn't know that these gaskets are that pressure sensitive.

 

[LS4me]

I didn't know that these gaskets are that pressure sensitive.

All are.......

 

[jerrym3]

All are.......

I agree, but I have a 1964 Galaxie 500XL convertible that I've owned since 1969.

Over 44 years, I have changed many, many many gaskets on that car and never torqued any of them. (Car has 216,000 miles, and we just put in a new 390/300 two years ago.)

Usually, I "firmly snug", not overtighten.

(I also have a 2003 TBird, black/saddle interior, retro with only 21,000 miles. Many mechanical similarities with my LS)

 

[joegr]

It's not just the gasket. You could also bend the flange of the oil pan. The torque and the sequence are important.
I'm very happy that the cork gaskets are not used anymore. I've had much less trouble with the newer ones. You can get a cheap small torque wrench at Harbor Freight. (It works well enough for this - having the torque be the absolutely correct value is not as important as having it be exactly the same on all of the bolts. The wrench should be within 20% anyway.)

 

[jerrym3]

I have to confess my ignorance.

When the installation instructions use the term Nm 5 and Nm 12 when they refer to the two stage torque process, where does the term Nm come from?

Is it a measurement noted on the smaller T wrench?

 

[JoshMcMadMac]

I have to confess my ignorance.

When the installation instructions use the term Nm 5 and Nm 12 when they refer to the two stage torque process, where does the term Nm come from?

Is it a measurement noted on the smaller T wrench?

Newton-Meter, metric for foot-pounds. The conversion is approximately .75 foot-pounds per newton-meter, so use three-quarters of the value provided as Nm...in this case, 4 ft.lb and 9 ft.lb.

 

[LS4me]

(I also have a 2003 TBird, black/saddle interior, retro with only 21,000 miles. Many mechanical similarities with my LS)

Not too surprising as they are basically the same car.

 

[jerrym3]

Newton-Meter, metric for foot-pounds. The conversion is approximately .75 foot-pounds per newton-meter, so use three-quarters of the value provided as Nm...in this case, 4 ft.lb and 9 ft.lb.

Thanks

I took a closer look at my large T wrench (that I use for wheel lugs), and I saw the Nm reading.

I looked at the Harbor Freight site, and the prices are much less than, for example, Sears.

So, I'm going to pick up a HFright T wrench and a plastic scraper (so as not to scratch the pan/block removing the old gasket), and off we go.

Compared to my 64 Galaxie (motor had to be lifted to remove the oil pan), this looks pretty easy.