arrrg.... stupid stupid

slickemhoundd

slickemhoundd

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
1,276
Reaction score
1
Location
Sewell
I know i deserve a dummy slap from everyone who views this post but...... my head gaskets are starting to go ( cylinders sharing compression,coolant fuel mix)
"starting" to go.... now i must mention this in the 4.6 t-bird 96. now my moronic question i need an opinion on blue devil "headgasket repair".. now i dont beleive in prolonging the issue but for $60 shelf price is there a possibility it "could" work? One buddy of mine told me its a 50/50 chance. i know there are very "crucial" directions but regardless. the car has 114xx on the clock

Also sorry for all the "quotes"
 
I can't comment on that brand.

I have used Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Fix, and it does work, but I needed 2 bottles. It's $27 at Advance.

That's Bar's head gasket FIX, not Bar's head gasket Repair.

Don't expect it to work immediately. It took 2 weeks of driving, and burping the system before my car stopped overheating.
 
okay now my fan died i go another one and right now im running with no thermostat, changing the oil and coolant (flush) tommorrow. now was your leak oil and coolant or coolant and fuel?
 
also where do you pour it and was it 2 bottles at once or 1 a week? and thats funny i go to princeton every mornin to do my first run.
 
slickemhoundd said:
okay now my fan died i go another one and right now im running with no thermostat, changing the oil and coolant (flush) tommorrow. now was your leak oil and coolant or coolant and fuel?
Click to expand...
I didn't notice any oil contamination. I did get more vapor from the exhaust than usual though.

I used 1 bottle. After a week and no change, I added another bottle (the alternative was taking the engine apart for new gaskets...nothing to lose at that point).

Things got better within days.

I wouldn't worry about it clogging the system. The stuff I used has little flecks of metal in it, like glitter, as opposed to the pepper corn sized material that I see in most other blends.
1111_lg.jpg
 
The head gaksets are going on your SOHC Tbird? Did you massivly overheat the engine, cause the head gasket on the 2v mod motors rarely go.

That being said I personally wouldn't put that gunk in my motor.
 
kustomizingkid said:
The head gaksets are going on your SOHC Tbird? Did you massivly overheat the engine, cause the head gasket on the 2v mod motors rarely go.

That being said I personally wouldn't put that gunk in my motor.
Click to expand...

my cooling fan wound up takin a poo and because of my winky suckin boss i never had time to flush the nasty rustic coolant after the heater core went (before i had the car) now im just lookin for somethin that may help because my backup car took a crap, its rare but not hard because you got an cast block with aluminum heads and the gasket is metal bound (not completly) but any bit of extra heat will or can warp the heads easily
 
I've got a buddy that maintains taxis, and own a crown vic. Of all the vics I've been around I've never seen one with bad headgaskets.

Unfortunatly you picked the short straw and got unlucky, sorry mang.
 
I kind of have to agree with the 'what do I have to lose' theory-try it, if it works, great, if not, it's just a beater, a loss no doubt, but, what can it hurt?
 
i know but its a shame because its a great runnin car and i just want to find a way to get her runnin up to par and i was supposed to trade her for another mark three days after this happend, still gettin it but by other means
 
If the cylinders are sharing compression, then the gasket is blown between the 2 cylinders, not just from the cyl to the coolant. When that happens, there is no fix-in-a-bottle for it. You might get the coolant to stop leaking into the combustion chamber, but you will still be down on power and possibly misfiring from the compression leak. With that being said, if you do want to try something like this, don't waste your money on that expensive stuff. Just drop an egg and a tablespoon of black pepper into your cooling system. That will cost you practically nothing and works far better than any of the commercially available products. I used to work with a guy who popped the head gasket in a POS 3.8 tbird and he didn't feel like fixing them. He put the black pepper and an egg in the coolant and drove the car for another 20K miles before it blew a ball joint and he junked the car.
 
Goddard-MarkVIII said:
don't the gaskets cost 50 bucks pretty easy to put thouse on right?
Click to expand...
Gasket sets are at least $170.

Replacing them is one of the more time consuming jobs you can do on this car.

Service Manual Procedure:

Cylinder Heads

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Camshaft Positioning Tool T93P-6256-A Crankshaft Holding Tool T93P-6303-A

Removal
  1. Remove engine from vehicle as outlined.
  2. Remove valve covers (6582) as outlined.
  3. Remove engine front cover (6019) as outlined.
  4. Remove intake manifold (9424) as outlined.
  5. Remove crankshaft position sensor pulse wheel.
  6. Remove rocker arms (6564) as outlined.
  7. Remove exhaust manifolds (9430) as outlined.
  8. Drain engine coolant from cylinder block (6010).
  9. NOTE: The timing marks on the primary camshaft sprockets (6256) must be on the top side of the cam sprockets.
  10. Rotate engine to No. 1 top dead center (TDC).
  11. Install Camshaft Positioning Tool T93P-6256-A in rear D-slots of camshafts (6250).
  12. Remove bolts retaining RH and LH primary timing chain tensioners (6L266) to cylinder heads (6049) and remove timing chain tensioners.
  13. Remove LH and RH primary timing chains, timing chain tensioner arms (6L253) and timing chain guides (6K297). Do not loosen the camshaft timing sprocket retaining bolts.
  14. Remove one nut and two bolts retaining inlet heater water hose (18472) to rear of RH cylinder head.
  15. Item Part Number Description 1 — Stud Bolt 2 6049 RH Cylinder Head 3 — Bolt (2 Req'd) 4 18696 Inlet Heater Water Hose 5 — Nut A — Tighten to 8-12 Nm (71-106 Lb-In)
  16. Remove outlet heater water hose retaining stud bolts from rear of RH cylinder head.
  17. Item Part Number Description 1 18472 Outlet Heater Water Hose 2 — Connector (Part of 6010) 3 6010 Cylinder Block 4 6049 RH Cylinder Head 5 — Stud Bolt (2 Req'd) A — Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-In)
  18. Using removal sequence, loosen and remove 10 cylinder head-to-cylinder block retaining bolts on cylinder head to be removed.
  19. Discard all removed cylinder head bolts.
  20. NOTE: Cylinder heads must not be set on head face if valves are open, as damage may occur.
  21. Remove cylinder heads.
  22. Remove head gaskets (6051) and discard.
  23. Installation
  24. NOTE: Make sure that all bolt holes are clean and dry. Remove engine coolant residue prior to reassembly.
  25. Clean cylinder head, intake manifold, valve cover and cylinder block sealing surfaces. If necessary, check cylinder head and cylinder block flatness.
  26. NOTE: This ensures that all pistons are below top of cylinder block deck face.
  27. Rotate crankshaft (6303) counterclockwise.
  28. Inspect cylinder head face surface for scratches near coolant passage and combustion chambers.
  29. Position new head gaskets on cylinder block.
  30. NOTE: Take care not to score the surface of the cylinder head face.
  31. Position LH cylinder head on cylinder block dowels.
  32. CAUTION: Cylinder head bolts must be replaced with new bolts. They are torque-to-yield designed and cannot be reused.
  33. NOTE: Apply clean engine oil meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E to all cylinder head bolt threads and both sides of washer on head bolt prior to installation.
  34. Install LH cylinder head bolts. Tighten LH cylinder head bolts as follows:
  35. Tighten 10 bolts, in sequence, to 37-43 Nm (27-32 lb-ft).
  36. Rotate 10 bolts, in sequence, 85-95 degrees.
  37. Rotate 10 bolts, in sequence, an additional 85-95 degrees.
  38. Position RH cylinder head on cylinder block dowels.
  39. CAUTION: Cylinder head bolts must be replaced with new bolts. They are torque-to-yield designed and cannot be reused.
  40. NOTE: Apply clean engine oil meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E to all cylinder head bolt threads and both sides of washer on head bolt prior to installation.
  41. Install LH cylinder head bolts. Tighten RH cylinder head bolts as follows:
  42. Tighten 10 bolts, in sequence, to 37-43 Nm (27-32 lb-ft). Refer to illustration following Step 6.
  43. Rotate 10 bolts, in sequence, 85-95 degrees.
  44. Rotate 10 bolts, in sequence, an additional 85-95 degrees.
  45. Position outlet heater water hose on RH cylinder head. Install and tighten stud bolts to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft).
  46. Position inlet heater water hose on RH cylinder head. Install and tighten one nut and two bolts to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in).
  47. Install primary timing chains and set valve timing as outlined.
  48. Install rocker arms as outlined.
  49. Install crankshaft position sensor pulse wheel.
  50. Install intake manifold as outlined.
  51. NOTE: When cleaning sealing surfaces of the engine front cover and oil pan-to-cylinder block joints, use extreme caution not to damage the rubber bead of the oil pan gasket (6710). If a leak should occur upon reassembly, remove the oil pan (6675) and replace the oil pan gasket.
  52. Install engine front cover.
  53. Install valve covers as outlined.
  54. Install exhaust manifolds as outlined.
  55. Install engine as outlined.
  56. Start engine and check for leaks.
  57. Check and add engine oil meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E as needed.
 
kustomizingkid said:
With how cheap mod motors are, just yank the bad out and put the good in.
Click to expand...

i was gonna do that but theres no garuntee the motor would be good. But on the other hand i went to trade it in today and 10 min from the place some 16yr old t-boned me.... kinda worked out at the dealer but i lost alot of money, who quarter was shot as well as the door. she pulled out of wawa and t-boned me and the cop has the nerve to say i hit her and its my fault... beleive me i have NOOO LUCK at all. Geno always tried to lighten things up and he gave up because hes seen the poopy luck that ive had and finally admitted my luck is ish as well as everyone else i know. but regardless i got a newer sexy thang but still nothin compared to my mark..... not skid but linc
 
Just cause the cop says its your fault doesn't necessarily make it so. You should put a claim in with her insurance. Insurance companies do their own investigation independant of what the police report says. The worst they can do is deny the claim, but maybe you'll get some extra cash out of the deal to make up for what you lost on the trade-in.
 
Blenderhead said:
Just cause the cop says its your fault doesn't necessarily make it so. You should put a claim in with her insurance. Insurance companies do their own investigation independant of what the police report says. The worst they can do is deny the claim, but maybe you'll get some extra cash out of the deal to make up for what you lost on the trade-in.
Click to expand...

heh heh...... you know what i didnt do.... i never took pics of the car and sold it personally to someone at the dealership and he crushed it the next mornin.... thats reeeeealy gonna help...... im screwed. my first accident was in a mark when my brakes failed and i rear ended someone and thats my fault now ive got next to nothin to work with me to prove otherwise that me gettin t-boned wast my fault and ive got liabilaty (didnt realize that full coverage wast that much more expensive.... i had a real high price in mind.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 829 (members: 0, guests: 829)
Back
Top