Another Coolant Issue Topic

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Kape

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Hey guys,

Of course, my LS is leaking once again. I thought I had this problem taken cared of but I guess not. Im not asking for advice on how to fix it cause I know it's a over talked about problem. Im just asking if anyone can point me to a previous thread about seeing coolant leak from the drivers side behind the wheel.
I've tried different terms to search for the topic but no luck. A lot about regular overheating and housing units. If anyone knows of any threads, please copy and paste them here.

Thanks in advance!!
 
Also, I think its a leak in either my reservoir or the connecting hose. Can anyone tell me where I would be able to get one or both for a good price? Im also hoping to get it within 24hrs. I want to fix this as soon as possible
 
Kape said:
Hey guys,

Of course, my LS is leaking once again. I thought I had this problem taken cared of but I guess not. Im not asking for advice on how to fix it cause I know it's a over talked about problem. Im just asking if anyone can point me to a previous thread about seeing coolant leak from the drivers side behind the wheel.
I've tried different terms to search for the topic but no luck. A lot about regular overheating and housing units. If anyone knows of any threads, please copy and paste them here.

Thanks in advance!!
Click to expand...

Kape said:
Also, I think its a leak in either my reservoir or the connecting hose. Can anyone tell me where I would be able to get one or both for a good price? Im also hoping to get it within 24hrs. I want to fix this as soon as possible
Click to expand...

Degas bottle. I would get the factory bottle from the dealer. You don't want to cheap out on quality here. The price difference isn't all that great.
 
Do you think i would be able to get that at a ford dealership as well or strictly Lincoln? The Lincoln dealership is over 30miles away, a drive i dont want to take haha
 
aww man, dealers are asking 0ver $170 plus tax for the tank......sure hope this gets my car back to normal
 
Ford dealers can order parts just as well. The Lincoln parts guy will just have some sympathy when you say you're working on an LS.
The alternative is a Dorman tank, but it is thinner, might need a new cap, and does not include the lower hose. Folks are split on which bottle is "better".
 
Kape said:
Do you think i would be able to get that at a ford dealership as well or strictly Lincoln? The Lincoln dealership is over 30miles away, a drive i dont want to take haha
Click to expand...

Ive only ever gone to ford dealers...
 
Depending on how long you can wait try fordpartsgiant.com and tascaparts.com to see if you get it cheaper. Might be able to save a couple bucks even after shipping. If this isn't your dd, a member on here, hite(something), says he has an aluminum one in the works.
 
I just got it changed a couple hours ago. Ford charged me $192 which included the tax. Its been running great for the first hour then i hit the high way. I went 14 miles down and it stayed even the whole time. im guessing the constant speed helped it stay calm. when i got off, the needle hit 3/4th of the way to overheating after 5mins of regular driving. I got home and i still saw dripping (less than before) behind the wheel.....Lincoln LS problems
 
Kape said:
I just got it changed a couple hours ago. Ford charged me $192 which included the tax. Its been running great for the first hour then i hit the high way. I went 14 miles down and it stayed even the whole time. im guessing the constant speed helped it stay calm. when i got off, the needle hit 3/4th of the way to overheating after 5mins of regular driving. I got home and i still saw dripping (less than before) behind the wheel.....Lincoln LS problems
Click to expand...

Very odd if its still leaking....The oem degas bottle should come with new hoses just got a spare one from tasca in the mail, Maybe they did not clamp the hoses back on correctly?? either way I would definetly bring it back.
 
Kape said:
I just got it changed a couple hours ago. Ford charged me $192 which included the tax. Its been running great for the first hour then i hit the high way. I went 14 miles down and it stayed even the whole time. im guessing the constant speed helped it stay calm. when i got off, the needle hit 3/4th of the way to overheating after 5mins of regular driving. I got home and i still saw dripping (less than before) behind the wheel.....Lincoln LS problems
Click to expand...

Either you didn't get all of the air bled out, and/or your cooling fan is not working correctly. It's quite possible that the coolant you saw didn't leak, but instead was vented due to coolant boiling. The system will vent coolant if it boils and over pressurizes the system.
 
It came with the new hose just no cap which seemed weird to me. Its raining in Tampa so I cant real drive around again to check if it is leaking for sure. Im planing on bringing it back again tho cause I realized they theres only water in my coolant tank.

I'll tell them to bleed the air out again. I hope its not the fan. That would be a pain.
 
yea, the fan reservoir did run low for a while. I wish I would have caught that way earlier. I just got a call from the mechanic saying he did a thermo laser check and found it is likely to get be a clog in my radiator. Theres a high temp difference from my coolent reservoir to the upper part of my radiator.

I was told parts may run up to $230 and labor $240.....I dont think Im going to fix this. Im running thin with the car and I have to cover my classes out of pocket.
 
That's the problem with the LS being so cheap to buy nowadays. People are not aware that the repair costs still are in line with a luxury car.
 
I was somewhat aware of the problems before I purchased it. No lie, I should have gone into a more detailed search about the LS. I thought I found a winner with this car because after I got it, it ran strong and a full body tune up showed less than what I expected could be wrong with it.
Its just really getting to the point where I want to cover my school funds and my small business before putting more into the LS. If I could just flush the radiator and the problem be gone, that would be great.
 
Dont' get me wrong, I understand the repairs can be a large burden. I'm resolved to the fact that if I have to bring it in, it's going to be a minimum of $500. What's the year/mileage of your LS?
 
I own a 2000 with 97,3xx mileage. I completely understand on the $500 minimum lol I stopped hoping for under $200 repairs after the 3rd fix.
 
Kape said:
... If I could just flush the radiator and the problem be gone, that would be great.
Click to expand...

Unless you've put stopleak or similar in there, it is very unlikely that your radiator is clogged. If you have put stopleak in, it could be close to impossible to get the cooling system to work correctly even after replacing the radiator.
 
If they didnt replace the reservoir cap then that couold be part of your problem. If the cap is bad it will not allow the system to pressurize correctly.

Radiators can be found on ebay for arround $75. Not sure about the quality. If your fan is bad then you should convert it to electric for a fraction of the cost to fix the factory hydraulic POS.
 
I can definitely say I've never put or let anyone else put stopleak in the radiator while Ive been the owner.
 
How can I tell if it is pressurizing correctly? When it overheated, I lossened the cap to see if it would overflow and it did.

I seen the prices on ebay for the radiator, its really the hose that are killing me. They mostly come with the housing unit. I had my housing unit changes so Ive been trying to find one without it
 
Kape said:
...I just got a call from the mechanic saying he did a thermo laser check and found it is likely to get be a clog in my radiator. Theres a high temp difference from my coolent reservoir to the upper part of my radiator.

...
Click to expand...

This does not sound like good diagnostics. Normally, one would expect a temperature difference between the degas bottle and the radiator. Coolant does not circulate through the degas bottle (unless it is leaking), so it will always tend to be a different temperature than the main coolant loop.

If he is trying to say that coolant isn't flowing through the radiator, then that can have many causes (that are more common) other than a clogged radiator. A few of those would be, trapped air, stuck thermostat, bad water pump, ...

If your AC is also not cooling, and it stopped working at the same time as the overheating started, it would point to some cause that is common to both systems. That would be air flow through the condenser and the radiator. Either there's a lot of dirt stuck in the air passages, or the fan is bad. (Of course, the AC compressor is shut down once the engine goes over temperature as a safety measure.)
 
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