Another 97/98 clock spring(air bag sliding contact) thread..BUT unexpected REAL fix!!

I thInk I'll just replace the entire steering wheel.that should do the trIck!

I don't thinnk all of those switche's are illuminated, my 97 thunderbird didnt have cruise swiches that lit up and even the 93-94 marks didn't illuminate either. Might have to look around for 95 and up mark cruise switches.
Now that I think of it, I seem to recall someone claiming that the entire LS steering column is swappable with the Mark. Not sure if that's true, but it would be great if the MF switch was swappable too. Dose anyone have a pic of the LS MF switch?

ok, heres the deal with the lincoln LS MFS..if you use one of these for your marks, there are 2 differences. ONE and the BIGGEST>>>!!! do NOT use the switch that has the Auto (moisture sensing) feature. The wiring is completely different inside. I successfully replaced mine with one that said Auto on it, and now the wipers do not turn off unless i pull the fuse. BIG PITA.. so dont do Also, you will need to make sure the LS had memory seats, for some reason, this makes a difference on the MFS i have been told. second difference, where the lever meets the switch is a little different on the LS vs the MARK, so it wont look quite as finished when you put the column cover back on. i am taking the auto one off today, and believe the black cover that holds the lever and telescopic switch is inter changeable, so when i tear this apart again, ill let you know.

i am only saying this as if you are thinking about using the entire column, make sure your doner LS did not have the auto wiper feature, as its not compatible with our marks.
ok, here are some pics of the differences between the LS and Mark MFS... You'll notice they are pretty much exactly the same, and if i could get the wiring diagram for both the LS and MARK, I could probably get the auto MFS to work in the lsc..but i dont have either, and not going to worry about it unless someone really needs it and can provide the schematics for the flat plug that plugs into the MFS..

Also, I can now change out these switches, and the clock spring in under 15 IMG_20130801_084148_223.jpgIMG_20130801_084156_662.jpgIMG_20130801_084215_984.jpg



This writeup and the enthusiastic response shows how helpful and welcoming you Lincoln guys and gals are. It's a privilege to be involved with you and I applaud your inclusiveness. Plus, some of the creative insight here blows me away. Black betty gets my thumbs up for not taking no for an answer.
Maybe it is really not a very useful idea?
Had a quick look at the schematics - they look pretty the same to try.
Yup a good writeup. I have a new Gen 1 clock spring. I believe it to be among the last available.
It works!

Gentlemen and ladies, this works for sure. I had similar problems with my 97. Code 32 and the cruise quit working after a bitter cold morning. I was in and out of installation in 2 hours. Bought a new 2000 LS clock spring off ebay for about $150. Hopefully it will last. Did note that a steering wheel puller is hard on your pull points. Mine had been into before and threads were stripped out. I sprayed a little micro lubricant around the splines and let it marinate for a minute. A little gently tugging and popped right off. Watch what your doing and your good to go. Many thanks to the gentlemen that wrote up this article, priceless to have my mark viii up. I really appreciate it. Also, try the led strips to replace your neon, works like a champ and can give you blinkers as well. Mine works great. reply if you want more info.
What would you like to know about the clock spring. The write up by blackbetty was pretty good, he might be better at some of the details and credit. The 2000 lincoln ls clock spring is a life saver for all of us mark 8 owners.
Converting over to LEDs from neon requires removing the ballast and neon bulb. Cutting the outside corners on the back side and sliding the neon strips in from each side. One set will be your turn signal brake lights and the side up will be your normal tailights. 2 per side works great for me 2 years now. I'll try to take some pics of how they look. Will do better on the next one, this was a first try for me.
Please do I'm a little lost here

What are you confused about?

It appears as though the steps to replace it are the same with the exception of soldering on the air bag connector. Go over the write up a couple times and i'm sure it'll make more sense.
Why not just swap the connector end. Those wires come out pretty easy from the connector.

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