Aluminum Coolant Tube Leak

Gus_Mahn

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It appears that the aluminum line that runs from the bottom of the surge tank to the passenger side of the car is leaking at the crimp on the passenger side of the car on my '03 3.9 LS. It looks almost impossible to change without dropping the engine. I may just run hose. Anybody have to change this tube?
 
Yes I changed that hose a few months ago when I replaced ALL the hoses, so it can be done. When you are removing the retaining nut on the passenger side you have to do it by feel as you can't see it at all. The drivers side is visible so not so hard, but I would recommend that you use a worm clamp rather then the OE spring clamp on that side unless you are very patient.
 
The drivers side is visible so not so hard, but I would recommend that you use a worm clamp rather then the OE spring clamp on that side unless you are very patient.
Thanks for the reply. I'm glad that it can be replaced, though it sounds like a pain. This damn car has cost me about $1000 wholesale on cooling system parts, and I haven't had to change the radiator yet! I'm patient, and I have the proper tool to remove/install those spring clamps with minimal drama. What did this hose assembly cost you?
 
Anybody have pictures of the components in question? I'd like to keep in the know on where to be looking for possible leaks.
 
Wow Jack, I'm impressed. Excellent documentation. It will be very useful as these cars continue to age. I'm not sure how old your pricing information is, but it appears dealer parts are increasing in cost drastically (pretty common as cars pass 10 years past production). I bought a DCCV about a year ago, and I believe it was $120ish wholesale.

I put 4 GM seal tabs into my cooling system hoping it will seal the hose. I know I should replace the rest of the components, but it's pretty cold now. I'll probably spend another couple of hundred and do it in the spring.

Have you replaced your auxiliary coolant pump yet. I believe my '03 has issues with the pump. The heat is mostly crappy but works normally sometimes. It's properly bleed. The thermostat is only about a year old, but the car is slow to heat up and sometimes runs cold. It usually does reach proper operating temperature, but it takes a long time. The pump is hooked to the housing, and I'm not sure how much effect it has on the thermostat. The thermostat seems to work normally when the pump is running.
 
Those prices were as of last Sept. Yes I have watched all of Ford parts rise over the last 3-4 years, and when their national inventory gets low with the parts are not in production anymore there is even a steeper increase IMO. For thirty years my group bought about 50k in parts every year and the rise was always there, much more so with the deval of the dollar.

The aux pump has been fine.

Gus, did you replace the coolant when you changed the DCCV? The reason I ask is I not a fan of the gold coolant based on my diesel work and don't think it should be in a vehicle for more then 50k miles or 2 years. I would be worried about it affecting the new DCCV's operation if it wasn't flushed.

Just before I changed the cooling system parts my wife had two occurrences of low coolant temperature, verified with my laptops AutoEnginuity. The changing of the all the parts and including the TS cured that, but it's MO that it was the TS failing.

The aux pump has two jobs: One to pull the coolant from the heater core so it works better (and also pulls coolant from your leaky back of the engine hose assembly); And to assist in cool down the motor after shut down. I would expect poor heater operation if the pump was not working, but I wouldn't expect the motor to run cooler or have a extended heat up if it failed. The only reason I could see a long warmup would be a stuck open TS.

Playing Devil's advocate, I wonder if the leak is more prone now if the Aux pump is not providing a lower pressure within the back of the motor line from the reservoir as it would normally do. Not that it should leak, but if it's slightly compromised the additional pressure may be revealing it's failings.
 
Gus, did you replace the coolant when you changed the DCCV?
My coolant has been changed multiple times, but not at the time I changed the DCCV. The coolant looks great, and there was no change in heater performance after replacing the DCCV. It's OKit got changed, since it was another plastic part I wanted to replace before it could fail anyhow. The pump is more plastic, and I'm almost positive it is an issue. The heater will start to work fine after I thump the pump a few times. I've a new T-stat to go in the same time as the pump.

I'm running plain old Prestone, although I believe the first couple of failures I used universal green Prestone or equivalent.
 
>>The heater will start to work fine after I thump the pump a few times.

Good diagnostics, sounds like you found it. And I guess something for me to look forward to in another 75k.
 

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