Air bag wire under the seat

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Blueberryyum02

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Where to do I begin to look at repairing this wire, I move some wires around it stops but if I either radied or lower the seat it comes back. Want to fix it and be done with it but I have no clue where to start.

Also searching on my phone is useless.

Thanks in advance.
 
Just note, it's not always a guaranteed fix, theres a lot more to the LFC fault codes surrounding the SRS system.

You say it goes away when you move wires around?

~ what goes away?
~ which wires?
~ Airbag fault flashing?




BigRigLS said:
...

driver seat wiring:
> http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=3775 > post #26 (w/ pics)
> http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=7068 > post #18 (w/ pics)

...
Click to expand...




Quik LS said:
...

The two most common issues are codes 32 and 36:
B1932 32 8 Driver Air Bag Circuit Resistance High Go To Pinpoint Test H .
B1993 36 22 Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Shorted to Ground Go To Pinpoint Test R .
B1992 36 22 Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Shorted to Battery or Ignition Go To Pinpoint Test T .
B1994 36 22 Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance Go To Pinpoint Test V .
B1995 36 22 Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Resistance Low Go To Pinpoint Test X .

...
Click to expand...
 
Yes the air bag light goes away,

I found a yellow connector with a red slide lock that's the wire I move which makes it go away. Looking at the wire I can't see if there is a break in it.

Thanks for the links bigrig
 
All connectors in the SRS are colored yellow to distinguish them from the other connectors. These connectors have special functions and are specifically designed for the SRS.

These connectors use durable gold-plated terminals. Be sure to disconnect the battery terminals (30min) and drain off ( shorting the battery cables together for a couple of minutes. Use a jumper cable to do this ) before you start mucking with this wire/connector, it is the explosive airbag after all!

Note: the service workshop manual warns to also pull the restraints control module (RCM) fuse, while tampering with this system.


If you get frustrated with the connector, you could always cut it out and straight solder the leads together covered by some heat shrink tubing, not the best solution but a work around, just keep this in mind if you ever go to remove the seat. Best option is of course to undo the red clip and rework the leads by means of soldering to the pins. Tin the leads first and try to use some flux if possible as to avoid cold solder joints.



* I'm not responsible for your own actions or choices. Up to others self as always.
 
for me personally, if I had to make this repair, I would probably remove the connector and just solder the wires directly (extending them slightly if needed for full range of motion of the seat) because I know if I solder it, it will be a good solid connection that won't fail again, yes this does make it more inconvenient to remove the seat. but then again, the seat should rarely ever need to be removed, and if it does, it only take five minutes to solder and shrink wrap them back up.

that being said, I'm sure a new connector would last a while, but with the seat moving every time you get in and out, and how often the OEM connector fails, I feel like my work would outlast a new connector.
 
1LoudLS said:
for me personally, if I had to make this repair, I would probably remove the connector and just solder the wires directly (extending them slightly if needed for full range of motion of the seat) because I know if I solder it, it will be a good solid connection that won't fail again, yes this does make it more inconvenient to remove the seat. but then again, the seat should rarely ever need to be removed, and if it does, it only take five minutes to solder and shrink wrap them back up.

that being said, I'm sure a new connector would last a while, but with the seat moving every time you get in and out, and how often the OEM connector fails, I feel like my work would outlast a new connector.
Click to expand...

This is what I ended up doing and it ended my 3 year battle with the 3-6 airbag code.
 
I'd imagine that while yes, your solder connection will last longer, you're just moving the stress point. Now it's at the ends of the solder the same way the flex/fatigue point was at the ends of the pin. I found my car had this fixed previously by replacing the plug. That should have added a few inches to distribute the flex.

Am I the only one that doesn't like easy entry seat and wheel? I turned it off pretty quickly.
 
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