A perfectionist looking to professionally rid the LS of rust

[JMC]

My 2000 Lincoln LS was purchased new in 2000 by my Dad. He gave it to me way back in 2004. I have essentially taken care of the car all of its life. The car has not been my daily driver since 2010. The first four years, and again another two years later on, the car was driven in the Midwest winters, through snow and snow remover chemicals. Most of its life it has been down in the Florida heat, without any harsh winters as earlier in its life. Nonetheless, the car has rust underneath in several locations ((rocker panels (driver side primarily up front by the fender), rear trunk floor/wall near the rear bumper, lower rear quarter panels near area where the rear bumper and quarter panels meet, inside part of the frame rail(s), rust specs periodically keep popping up on the the driver's side lower door jamb near the sill kick plate, rust specs allover the seams of the undercarriage). Is the rusted rocker panels usually only the outer section that can be peeled back and replaced easily, or is there usually rust beyond the outer rocker panel wall? Are blocked or disconnected sunroof drain tubs ever found to be the culprit? Also, I have the common bubbling on the trunk lid in various locations. The car has a lot of sentimental value to me, so I intend to keep it indefinitely. I pride myself in only using genuine OEM Ford parts for everything, and only have it serviced at my local Ford dealer. Quality in repairs is of the utmost importance.

Have any of you spent the money to remove/repair rusted areas properly by a professional? If so, what was involved? Which steps/processes were taken to ensure a quality job? Was the work performed by a common collision center, or by a restoration specialist? I would be happy spending a bit more money to have the car repaired by those whom are best in their field and have more of a restoration style to their thought process and work. However, I am having great difficulty finding such a facility in Central Florida. Any recommendations?

The first picture is looking up into the space between the passenger side rear quarter panel and the trunk wall, from below. The second picture is rust inside a frame rail (perhaps actually just rear rear sub-frame), the third picture is of a bubble in one of the rear wheel housings and the last two pictures are of the driver's side rocker panel.

 

[cammerfe]

FWIW---

I needed to change a rear tire and, without looking, pushed my floor jack to the pinch-seam notch on the driver's side back. It crushed. I took it to a local well-thought-of repair facility and asked for a price to repair the entire length of the pinch-seam areas on both sides by cutting back to good metal and replacing with a combination of 1/8th plate and DOM tubing. He'd do it for $1K including forming, welding, and paint (not finish). I believe I'll have it done that way. It didn't help that my belly pan was screwed to the underside just inboard of the seams. I left the screw holes open when I took the pan off in the winter.

KS

 

[BILLBOATS]

I sold a car to a guy from the panhandle in florida and the most important feature of my car was the frame underneath. He owned a 1969 tr6 saying the frames and underside of fla cars do have rust so he brought a hammer and hit my frame all over and then bought the car. In the Ohio ne region people who know have their car OIL sprayed every year and 2 time for some. They never rust provided rust has not started. The body work tells me you have little dealings with body problems. You do not need the restoration kind of shop. Sandblasting the underside and immediately painting with some good rust prevent paint will cure the surface rust. The rusted thru metal could be cut out and if it was mine I would have metal strips welded . The spray the entire area with grey crackle finish paint including the trunk to match. Its cool stuff and possibly may come in different colors to match yours. A 1000 could mean your paying 100.00 per flat hour or 10 hours. I think you should relax and slow down , go to 4 different shops.Why can't you do the surface rust yourself?

 

[cammerfe]

Billy, I have a feeling that your reply is talking to two different people without differentiating as to whom you're talking to. I have no problem with doing surface rust, and didn't even mention it. I don't have a hoist and laying on my back and welding 'up' is enough of a PIA that I'll happily pay someone else to do it. I didn't mention it, but $1000 is the best price I've gotten for the work. There's at least $100 in tubing and plate priced into the job.

KS

 

[BILLBOATS]

The welding I could sub it out but at 100 an hour I can see some underside surface rust that can be addresses at home. As for laying under a car most of us older car guys have done it at some time or another in our car lives. A 3 ton floor jack from harbor frieght, 2 steel drive up ramps and 2 jack stands, 4 leg type. Who does your brakes.? You can do yourself a favor by buying a floor jack.

 

[cammerfe]

Bill, I'm 76 years old, I own 3 floor jacks and at least half-a-dozen HD jackstands. I own a set of torches, a mig and also a tig setup. I'll let someone else weld in the reinforcements on the underside of my car. I also let someone else weld the roll-cage into the car. When you're working on .125 plate and tube, you also need machinery to bend the tube, etc. I'll let someone do it who does it all day every day.

I haven't paid someone else to do a brake job in the last 60 years. That includes conversion from drums to discs; making the caliper mounts since they weren't available either from the factory or the aftermarket.

Thanks for your input.

KS

 

[BILLBOATS]

Bill, I'm 76 years old, I own 3 floor jacks and at least half-a-dozen HD jackstands. I own a set of torches, a mig and also a tig setup. I'll let someone else weld in the reinforcements on the underside of my car. I also let someone else weld the roll-cage into the car. When you're working on .125 plate and tube, you also need machinery to bend the tube, etc. I'll let someone do it who does it all day every day.

I haven't paid someone else to do a brake job in the last 60 years. That includes conversion from drums to discs; making the caliper mounts since they weren't available either from the factory or the aftermarket.

Thanks for your input.

KS

I see this is not your first rodeo. Ya, with your experience , I feel you know what to look for and how much is too much to pay