2004 LS8 120k forsale: to buy or not to buy


Well-Known LVC Member
Apr 23, 2008
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good afternoon ,

Some of you know I have been wanting to get back into an LS for a while. I'm just wondering inputs if this is worth it or not.S it is a 2004 Sport model 120,000 miles.. it has a sunroof.

the only bad that could be found with the car is that the climate control unit seems to be throwing a 2798 code, It needs a windshield and will probably need two tires by spring. exterior and interior can pretty much be clay bar and or cleaned up and be pretty presentable.

Ford service records indicate tranny fluid was done on the recall 3 coil packs have Been replaced And The SEat heater was replaced on the pasenger side the rail.. it is a Two owner car And all records have been kept very very sound and well maintained.

I spoke with the previous owner who traded it the dealer gave her $4500 on a trade.
the dealers trying to make a thousand dollars at 5500 as it is. I know they're willing to DIcker A little, what the car be worth $5000 or less even if it needed a $700 AC control unit?

I apologize if this is hard to read I'm trying to use my smartphone without Tapatalk or the other apps and Its A Fail.

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...Ford service records indicate tranny fluid was done on the recall ...

The transmission fluid recall was just to add an additive to the transmission fluid, not change out the fluid. My experience (and many others here too) was that the additive delayed the failure of the solenoid assembly, but did not prevent it. If that hasn't been done, count of $700 to $900 if you have someone do it. The 2798 error is from the DCCV, not the DATC. The DCCV is about $300 to have done.
Jojo I tried putting those changes to clarify I am fully aware of the solenoid as I had to do it in my 2004. what's doing this over talk text it was damn near impossible to try to get what I want it out. as for the valving I know that there's a pinpoint H that can be trialed to see if its the valve for the head unit. what are the chances that as simple as the $300 fix? keep in mind I like the last I always thought I was a good solid car I just need something to run me between 5 and 10 miles daily maybe a little more that I can enjoy.
So What Yo Are Saying Is??? Don'T Do It?
No, I'm not saying that. I'm saying there is risk in anything.

It's a car with 120K miles. You may buy it and put less than $500 more in with no problems for years, or you may buy it and have $2K or more in repairs the first month.
Just sold my 2001 LS V6 180,000 km $3,600 as is. The car was never winter driven. Absolutely no rust anywhere. Never had any parts on cooling system changed, no coils changed. The only parts I changed in the 10 years I owned was the tires, battery, brakes, PCV hose. I never changed any coolant, or other fluids other than oil.
I figured it was about to cost me alot of money from what I read on here if I kept it. Now I am looking for a 2006 LS with low mileage.
Id say no and wait and look around , my friend bought his 2004 v8 with 75000 for 5800 and it was owned by a old elderly couple , no issues at all , my vote would be no
for 5k I will take it. the issue is most likely the dccv and you can get that from rock auto for $100 and you can do it yourself its really easy. now for the bad side. COOLING COMPONENTS it may be time to replace them if they haven't done it yet and also shocks / struts may be time for change on that. you can check the rear tires for any extra wear in the inside of the tires that would tell you its time for shocks. the bounce test don't work on a LS since the shocks have a shorter piston and don't travel a lot.
In that color, it would already be sitting in my driveway for that 5K.
Joe, I had to wait to reply when I had my laptop, couldn't stand reading my posts off my phone. Anyway I fully understand the possibilities of owning another LS. I think that the fact its a 120k 6 year old car with great records that hasn't had much for trouble so to speak. I would be fine with throwing two tires at it, a full alignment, a dccv or find a used datc if needed. Originally I wanted a low mileage 06 and nothing else. But now I just want a daily driver thats fun and comfortable to drive. I have a '12 Ecoboost F150 that the wife drives day to day and I have an '86 F-250 IDI Diesel that is pretty mint but driving it 5-10 miles a day will probably much harder on it than anything else. Figured a decent priced clean LS would be as good as a DD as any but maybe I just take my chances on the Old Diesel.
If you are serious about it, I would push the dealer to replace the DCCV and demonstrate that the AC is blowing cold before handing any money over.
Say Joe, lets say I were to "import" one of them gently used second gen LS from the US to Canada.
Is there a lot involved to get the dash in KMs as opposed to Miles. I mean is there more involved other than a cluster swap ?
Not sure if emissions would be the same. I do know on mine, it has the "for Canadian Market" on the door sill sticker.
Any idea?

// sorry to jack quickly.
Don't know about the emissions. As far the dash, there is a setup option to set the digital readings to metric, as long as you don't mind having the km/hr be smaller numbers than the MPH scale on the speedometer, you don't have to do anything there. The FEM would need to be flashed to turn on driving lights.
I've seen gauge faces for sale. After changing the setup from km to miles, swap in a new one.
Hmmm, thanks guys.

yeah, between to two gens, I actually prefer the 1st gen gauge in the cluster. of course I would have to swap it out with attempts at getting a KM/h dial set up.
interesting ... seems there are much better, (low millage) 2nd gens available within the USA as opposed to Canada. (not enough released here I suppose).
Anyhow, thanks ... gives me something to think about should I upgrade in the future. Dealerships should be able to assist with conversions.

// end jack.
Have done a lot more thinking.... Im not all about selling my 86 diesel to get the LS but can have em all. With my luck I would get rid of a good running 27 year old pickup that shouldn't see short 5 mile trips to a 10 year old car that should have no problem with them and the inevitable will happen. The younger one will let me down. I looked a long time for the Diesel and would just as soon keep it but at the same time I would just as soon it didn't shorten its life due to being an everyday abused driver. WWLSOD?
okay guys I have done every drive test that came to mind when I test drove the car Thursday. I want to throw them 4800 as it is for $5000 with the dccv repaired. is there anything out of the ordinary that I should think of or try on another test run before throwing an offer they have yet to clean up the car that's why I want to make sure this gets done quickly before they go thinking it's worth more money
BUMP? Any other simple checks that come to mind. Im going Tuesday at Noon to possibly make an offer. Wife took my forsale sign off the 86 and backed it back in the garage. I guess seeing it early this morning was reality to her that she couldn't make me sell another one of my rides. Yes the first LS was partly her decision. I have had a few nights to sleep on this and my gut is saying drive it again but go for it if the money is right.
Look under it and see what shape the rear toe links are in, as well as the other suspension parts. Personally, I like to plug a scan tool in and see the recent code history. It's a red flag when I find that it was reset so recently that the monitors haven't completed. With a 10 year old car, I always plan for about $2K more to fix all the little stuff and get it back to really good condition.
I appreciate the info did these have front and issues like the first gens? I know that my never did the rear end was out of alignment once when I bought it but other than that it was a pretty solid system. I know when I drove it it felt like the 4000 pound car that I remember 3 years ago. if I can convince them to put it on a lift would it be worth trying to see if there was any ball joint play or will you feel it in that setup?
now that I got a cold start it looking over there is a slight squeak up on cold start idle and it looks as if the, harmonic balancer pulley might have a slight wobble I don't ever remember this on my 04 what would ThatBe?
put It On a scanner at NAPA it throws a PO 171 code and a PO 174 code ifIf I ember correctly it's too lean bank 1 or 2 and service ParkBraKe comes up pretty consistently
just don't buy it and wait for one with less mileage or 06. why would you spend $5000 on car that you probably will put another 2500 on repairs when you can be patience and get 05 06 for $8000 or little more or even an 04 in better conditions,well that's my opinion.
The harmonic damper pulley on my 06 wobbles, but the one on my 04 is steady. On the 06 this causes a squeak when the engine is cold and wears out belt tensioners every so often. I haven't replaced it, because they don't make it anymore. I could take a chance one a used on, but the bolt that mounts it is a one time use (it stretches once when installed, may break if tried a second time). The bolt is close to impossible to get too.

Some (many?) 04s got a defective parking brake module from the factory. There was a TSB out warning dealers to replace 04 parking brake modules during the warranty period if there were any warnings or customer complaints.

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