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18X9 +36MM 18X10 +45MM Im guessing that your rear tires are 275-40-18 bro. Might want to edit that if you can.

Close but not quite...The real story is this. REV strung me along for several months on my last order. Approx 11Months later they tell me that they lost their manufacturer along with some other sketchy info that I was not privvy to. This made me uncomfortable to continue doing business with...

Im not going to bother explaining the crazy logistics of getting these wheels built in the specs we use and the low numbers we manufacture. I will however assure you and anyone else who would assume such a thing as you have described, that it could not be further from fact. Our intentions have...

Hello...Brad from The Custom Wheel Shop. You have my attention now, so please explain what it is you are talking about? You seem to be more informed that I am with respect to our business operations at the wheel shop. Brad

Sorry bro but that offset simply wont work (Look Right). Making a 10.5" rear wheel fit would take some well thought specs and the willingness to trim/cut. With that said, you would likely need a 2pc wheel to place the center in the barrel. Brad

If the offset is not favorable its going to look wrong. Cutting wont help if the wheel is hanging out of the fender-line. Hope it turns out for you. GL Brad

I am really sorry we dont have a replacment for you on hand right now. I would have to agree with running your stockers for awhile. If you could be bothered to post up a photo or send one to me, I would like to see the damage. Brad

OK so my plans to do another casting run of the 03' Cobra wheel got scrapped. That cast is no longer available. However there is a new cast available that had some interest last year. The 2010 GT500 cast is available to me in 18X9 done up with our required specs. Im planning on having them...

I think I can add some lite to this. The center decals were intended for the speedstar caps. Now, if the speedstar caps had the same dimensions as the rest of them they would fit fine, but they dont. Otherwise I would have opted to use the R' cap we use with everything else. Ive...

The wheels are a CLOSED (Have hub cover) so just have a second (5-4.50) bolt pattern drilled in them. Will cost very little. The TC hubs are 70.60MM and the Mark wheels have a 63.50MM and the wheels are bored as such. SO they would have to be bored. The offset of the 16X7 TC wheel is...

Looks HOT Rich!! Good on ya for helpin' out a fellow MarkVIII enthusiest. Brad

The 18X9 fronts w/+38mm of offset would be damn close. A 18X9 w/+36mm offset is what I consider to be the limit in the front, with respect to inner clearance. The 18X10 rears w/+50mm of offset probably would not fit once you got a tire on the wheel. I think the tire would start hitting...

You could use some conical shanked lugnuts but I dont think its a big deal with your spacers only being 8mm. So if the wheels bore measures 63.5mm then you are fine in that respect. In the front having to use spacers you are pinched because you are running a hubcentric wheel that requires...

Yea GMAN...Deff a clean photo right there. Brad

Sorry, it escaped my mind that your wheels were Jaguar OEM. The Jaguar hub bore is 63.40 which could mean you are not even seating the wheels when you torque them down..?? I dont know, but thats a close tolerance and obviously important. If they are slipping over the hubs I would imagine its...

yes I prefer the poly over the metal for a hub ring. They all seem to either be the poly or aluminum. $90 shipped is a bargain really. If you plan to keep the wheels I would seriously consider them. Brad

Even if you now have a backyard pilot hub, are the studs strong enough to support a pilot hub? I dont know. Do your lug holes resemble a pilot hub wheel?? Not in my opinion. Was that wheel ever intended to be applied to a pilot hub? No... Am I trying to piss you off?? Not at all, but it...

Thats a pilot hub. Do you have a pilot hub?? No... I would also add (edit) that FORD designed it that way. So the studs are capable of X and apparently deliver enough clamping paired with the pilot hubs. BTW and hub piloted wheel looks NOTHING like what you did. Brad

You have a large void around the stud now that was not there before you reamed the lug holes. Now you are depending completely on the stud and the wheel isnt supporting anything. So you have the lug/stud clamping strength but there is not a sturdy pocket between the stud and the wheel now...

You guys are talking about an ET style lug pocket. Oblong lug hole using an ET Shank style lugnut to bolster the lug pocket. The Shank of the lug slid in the slot adding support. Your wheels have a similar oblong gap but no shanked lug which OR an insert would do the same thing...