Search results

Thank you for all your help guys really appreciate your time.

Yea I swapped relays around and still same problem. I believe it’s the ignition switch but if I replace it with one from the junkyard won’t the new key stop the car from starting?

I found the starter relay and starter solenoid from a diagram I found online. I swapped both of them with known good ones, one with the horn relay and the other with the wiper, and still no crank from key. I really believe I got a bad ignition switch. Looking thru eBay will something like this...

I can check starter but if I put power to the starter coil fuse is that bypassing the starter relay? I can also try swapping the starter relay with another if you think that will help.

Perfect I appreciate it

Lmao definitely not It had the key fob, the car key and the house key and that’s it.

OEM key that came with the car. Ignition was never changed.

With my luck I think I got the rare one. I tried 3 different fuses and still no luck. Can I swap the ignition switch out myself or is it something that needs to be programmed to the key from the dealer or shop? Appreciate all the help guys

I’m sorry again Jorgr you are 100% right it was on power not ground. I was checking all the fuses in the box and it all lit up when I had my test light on ground except the starter coil fuse so I put it on the positive side and it started.

I cleaned both terminals and battery posts and made sure they were tight.

I was trying to diagnose the problem And I think I figured out the problem. With the key in the run position I put ground to the “starter relay coil” fuse which is fuse #1 on the passenger side fuse box and the car started. Does this point to a bad key ignition or something else? Thanks again...

No crank at all. With my battery charger on the battery I have 13.74 volts and still on crank. What should be my next step?

So the pats light turns on for a couple seconds when I put in run position then goes off and stays off even as I try to start the car. No flashing or blinking from the pats light. Also I will charge the battery and try to get the volts up On it.

Went out and checked the battery is at 11.33 volts with no terminals connected. Also joege you were absolutely right the horn and lights DOES stop when I put key in the run position. I also don’t see any pats light. In the run position I only see engine light, oil light, seat belt light and...

turning the key to the run position does not stop the horn or lights. Will get pats code and get back to you.

I am going to go check the pats code and the voltage on the battery.

If I manually unlock the driver door it’s the Same thing. The alarm stays on and horn keeps goin.

So after I charged my battery in the trunk I took off the terminals. Once I connected the terminals with all the doors closed, I go to open the driver side door and Yes the alarm would go off. I press the unlock button on the remote and the alarm/horn still continues to go on. I am assuming...

it’s an exide batter and I only put the battery charger today. I got the amps back up but didn’t check voltage. Will check the actual voltage and let you guys know.

Thanks for the quick reply I forgot to mention I put it on a battery charger and the battery is from 2 years ago. I checked all fuses and all are good. Is there a way to check is the key fob is good?