Never saw that until now and it definitely caused a spike in temp. New thermastat is running colder.
Comparing SKP China Pump and OEM there is a difference in the fins and smoothness. Will be putting the OEM on in a week or two.
Went to put a new OEM thermastat in and fixed half of my running warmer issue on the new donor motor. Piece of plastic tab was lodged in the thermastat. Maybe it was laying in the donor motor.
About to compare the old OEM pump still on the old motor vs the new aftermarket pump that I have on...
Still chasing this 4 years later.. I manually lock the drivers door shut it and the security light will blink as if I used the lock button to lock and arm it and then.. the alarm goes blaring off whenever it wants to and stops itself after a couple seconds to go back to as if it was armed and...
4 months later doing it again. God Moog is awful. I was better off gambling with a 20yr old 200k mile junkyard spindle at this rate as I did with the rears. If I didnt purchase 2 Moogs on closeout last time I would be doing the same.
I dont quite understand the"operating temp range". What is the purpose of that? Just to tell you the max it can tolerate before overheating or the range it can run with different types of coolant?
If all 3.9 setups are the same at least gen 2, and I had the old motor running in the mid 190's I...
Im just trying to see if maybe the AF pump is not as efficient as the OEM one. I dont know why some motors run much warmer than others. Will be comparing the pumps soon..
2yrs later and a new engine Im disappointed that im running about 204-208. Zero leaks new water pump etc. The fan starts roaring away at about 203. All I can think of is that the aftermarket pump design doesnt generate enough pressure or the Ford Gold coolant runs warmer than the 50 50 green...
Currently with a bad coolant leak im running about 212 highest 215 and the fan is roaring away. With no leaks i was always around 196-200.
Its also always this O-Ring that leaks due to a loose fit. The Jaguar uses a yellow plastic clip to hold these two parts together. Not sure why the LS never...
Obsolete per Ford. Nothing left online.
Btw the subframe bolts snapped.. not once but twice.. the ones from Jag/Landrover that someone posted on here do not work unless you weld in spacers. Had to get custom bolts.
Gen2.. hoses 3W4Z-9F814-AA & 3W4Z-9F813-AC look to be discontinued.
I see you removed the hose though without removing the intake by filing it down? Then 2 screwdrivers to get the hose off and on?
Post in thread 'GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul' GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul
If so will...
Hey, looking at those coolant parts. A lot dont even come up. Also not sure why there are 4 "gooseneck" orings. It only uses 2 in the front of the block. Another crack..
This is that thread thats why Im asking. Have to remove studs to insert "jacking bolts".
No way is it coming out of the spindle after 20yrs of corrosion. The other I antiseized a couple years ago and the metal on the hub was bending on the way out it was so seized..
Moog Bearings out again. Havent done this in a couple years. What do you use to push the wheel studs out a front end service kit? Dont remember what I did. At least they are on closeout now on rockauto..
Put a new compressor in and then it suddenly stopped working. Was the same result, clutch relay, except mine had corrosion on it for some reason. Just wiggling it made it work but cleaned contacts. All good.
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