Can't open the burp valve. ( on crossover)

Myco

Myco

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Trying to open the valve on the crossover to burp the car. I've never done it before and it looks like the last owner striped whatever type of socket there was in it. I've tried a crechent wrench but the lip is so small I can't just grab the top. It's not budging. I'm thinking of drimmeling a slot across the top for a flathead. This thing screws regular directions right? Left = loose?

Any suggestions?
 
left (counter clockwise), when I opened mine a couple weeks ago I used a pair of locking pliers and was able to get it loose.
 
If you are just trying to burp the cooling system dont even worry about that plug. Just fill the coolant jug, turn the car on, let it warm up, then let it cool down, open the overflow tank and refill to the line. Repeat until there is no more air in the system.
 
k9t8m said:
If you are just trying to burp the cooling system dont even worry about that plug. Just fill the coolant jug, turn the car on, let it warm up, then let it cool down, open the overflow tank and refill to the line. Repeat until there is no more air in the system.
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Exactly! That worked for me! That burp cap is bogus! It never seems to work
 
Going to be taking my caps off and have a nut welded to the top so you I can open it with a wrench or socket. I've heard horror stories of these things stripping out.
 
You can also fill with the coolant tank then take the upper heater core line at the back pass side of engine bay. Undo that line and conitnue filling from there. When full reconnect and start car. The coolant tank will get lower and fill as needed from there as it warms up. Done in one shoot. No refilling and checking. I almost melted my motor from running without burping the system. The temp sensor may not get coolant to it and read low temp but that snot always the case inside the motor. If you go this route make sure the car is on flat ground not on ramps.
 
Call out to Max and get a new one on order, the square on the cap is meant for 1/4" drive to fit in there. The seal is actually made be an "O" ring.
In removing the old cap I got an extra set of hands to help me. One set used a "T" bar with a 1/4" extension on it while the other set used a large set of channel locks to grab the OD of the plug. After that I always use di-electric grease in re-assembly and don't over tighten.
 
Hi Guys

That "cap" does have an oring and is still available. P/N F3LY-8A500-A listing for $28.32 cost you guys $20.39 plus shipping.

Max
 
Haven't had any problems with mine. Use plumbers grease on the o-ring and threads. If you run it in and out enough w/o lube it will seize up
 
htrdlincoln98 said:
You can also fill with the coolant tank then take the upper heater core line at the back pass side of engine bay. Undo that line and conitnue filling from there. When full reconnect and start car. The coolant tank will get lower and fill as needed from there as it warms up. Done in one shoot. No refilling and checking. I almost melted my motor from running without burping the system. The temp sensor may not get coolant to it and read low temp but that snot always the case inside the motor. If you go this route make sure the car is on flat ground not on ramps.
Click to expand...

where is this? Is it the u shaped tube at the back right?
 
I had to weld a bolt on a friends car to get that cap off. It was really stuck on there.
 
Myco said:
where is this? Is it the u shaped tube at the back right?
Click to expand...

On my 98 Its on the pass side Between the valve cover and the fire wall. The two line bolt to the back of the head. Remove the hose clamp to the top one and remove the rubber hose. Use funnel and fill in the rubber hose now loose. When its full there reinstall. It will bubble and over flow but fill slow And when the bubbling stops its good. run at idle and top pff tank. Do all this with the coolant tank open. It will work every time. My cap stripped with 1/4 extention. Rather than making things worse by using vise grips i do this.
 
htrdlincoln98 said:
On my 98 Its on the pass side Between the valve cover and the fire wall. The two line bolt to the back of the head. Remove the hose clamp to the top one and remove the rubber hose. Use funnel and fill in the rubber hose now loose. When its full there reinstall. It will bubble and over flow but fill slow And when the bubbling stops its good. run at idle and top pff tank. Do all this with the coolant tank open. It will work every time. My cap stripped with 1/4 extention. Rather than making things worse by using vise grips i do this.
Click to expand...

So, take the hose off fill the hose and put hose back. then start car. Run for a minute and repeat.

I'm a bit hazzy on the procedure. Could you clarify. :(
 
Fill coolant tank till full. Leave cap off. Remove th eheater hose in this pic. Fill slowly you will hear the air bubbles coming out of th eblock and heads as this are filled. When it is full. Reconnect this hose. start car let harm up and then top off th ecoolant tankafter the t-stat opens every thing should be full at this point. I never had an issue using this method. If free also. done in one fill up. No driving and refilling as needed.

heater core hose internet safe.jpg
 
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