Another overheating thread

BlacksonAudio

BlacksonAudio

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If you guys remember I ran hot. I was lead to the hydraulic system. I replaced it with a decent one I found at junk yard. No change. I took it off and cleaned it and still no change. I changed the tstat housing with the aluminum jag one and new tstat. No change. Found a leak coming from fan motor. Changed out and same results.im not leaking anywhere. I have heat. Oh yeah I changed the DCcv. AC only blows cold when driving. When I stop or idle it gets lukewarm. I have a motorcraft tstat coming tomorrow and also a fan pump with actuator too. Guess my next thing to look into is maybe the radiator?? Car sits at 223-226. Of I have AC on it’ll ride up to 228-231. Literally the car hits 205 in 4 minutes of being turn on and driving. Any ideas?? I’m drinking and researching
 
Does the electric auxiliary pump work? Did you have the AC properly evacuated and properly refilled to factory specifications? As Joegr asked...its obvious when the fan is working properly... you can hear it plain as day speed up and get louder upon turning the AC or defrost on
 
You could be looking for a radiator then. Old radiators tend to corrode in the ribbon fins and prevent heat transfer. I had a radiator go bad just from being parked at a naval base within 1/2 mile of the ocean for 2 years. It doesn't have to be road salt to wreck things. It sounds like everything is fairly normal, but also in reality, if you are running hot, the a/c should not be the only thing that makes the fan speed up. The engine temperature should also do that, if needed. I guess if I was in your shoes, I would take a good look at the radiator fins accessible through the fan blades, and see if they look rotted. I know it is not a great area to get to. But if you can get into there, feel with your fingers for the heart of the fins, and run a finger an inch or so along the midpoint of the tubes and see how badly the ribbons of aluminum are deformed. On a healthy radiator, they may bend slightly. On a spent radiator, they will lay down flat with zero resistance. If that happens, then you need a radiator in all likelihood.

One other thing that could and will hurt is trapped debris between the radiator and the condenser. Remove the upper dress cover over the radiator and condenser. Look for a buildup of leaves or anything that can block air flow. These get pretty bad up in the northeast with the seasonal leave drops. You may also have better access to assess the condition of your radiator from this area as well.
 
BlacksonAudio said:
Only time I hear the fans ramp up is when I turn on the AC.
Click to expand...

Are you actually overheating (>230) then?
It should be loud enough to hear in the car with the windows up (when stopped or driving at low speed (<10MPH)).
 
Before I professionally bled my coolant system after the total coolant rebuild I noticed my Forscan PID for fan Variables percentage % went to 51.2% while my LSE was running at or past 230 my hydraulic coolant fan actuator wasn't working properly and the AC w had not been evacuated and refilled with proper levels of the refrigerant...so even though my PCM was doing its job by spiking the fan up to proper voltage and percentages %%% without the actuator and AC system processing proper specifications the fan would continue at low spin speed ...I found everything is consistent to how the other components are working must be all good across the table ...for me that meant ...bleed air pocket professional...fix actuator I was guided by the awesome members of this Forum and Joegr teaching me about a properly charged AC ...but if you have all three of the above working properly...then you can safely start tackling other issues
 
BlacksonAudio said:
what are overheating temps? I’ve been led to believe anything over 200 is overheating.
Click to expand...

Nope.
205 to 215 is fairly normal (I think) if you are running the AC and air temp isn't over 100. In the 220s is not unheard of, and seems to be okay. Over 230 is overheating.
 
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