I replaced both a short while ago and ran into this problem: Lt side... when trying to take the old wheel hub and bearing off it was stuck on and wouldn't release ......After working on it I got it to release but the metal backing for the bearings stayed on.......I had to use heat to get it off...... put the new one on after greasing the spindle......had to drive it on.....couldn't get it back off so I left it alone.......the Rt one came right off and back on.....Now why is the Lt one so difficult?.....anyone else have this problem? Bruce Senior Citizen :Bang
Wheel Hub and bearing
- Thread starter bhans40
- Start date
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm assuming you are talking the rear
It's not uncommon to have the inner race stay on the hub I use a bearing splitter to remove them.
It's not uncommon to have the inner race stay on the hub I use a bearing splitter to remove them.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
the rear wheel bearings are press in units.
using a press or bearing puller is standard operating procedure.
using a press or bearing puller is standard operating procedure.
No, actually I'm talking about the front hubs and bearings........sorry I should have qualified the area. Bruce....... Senior Citizen
Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
Do you know those are sealed units and are not meant to be rebuilt in the field. The bearings have a built in pre load from the factory. I would suspect the one you reconditioned will fail as prematurely as well. You should buy new hubs (bearings are installed). They are not all too expensive. Good manufacturers are Timken, SKF, NTN,
Well, I bought the wheel hubs and bearings as a unit from Rock Auto. Put them on as a unit. The old one on the left side would not come off. Pried it off and when I did the portion that sides on the spindle did not come off but stayed on. I had to use my torch to heat it up so it would come off. The new hub and bearing had to be persuaded on. It was that tight.......The right one slipped on as smooth as butter ....Bruce Senior Citizen
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