2000 conti which oil?
- Thread starter johnvpr
- Start date
jrdnhsnbrg
Active LVC Member
Brand makes surprisingly little difference. 5w-20 anything should work just fine
my conti has 115k miles on, what else I should check or change?
was thinkin of fuel line filter, where can I find the partnumber for the motorcraft spare?
Spark plugs, need to be changed???? but..... how do I access to them since everything is so compressed.....never had a v8 engine
Thanks
John
was thinkin of fuel line filter, where can I find the partnumber for the motorcraft spare?
Spark plugs, need to be changed???? but..... how do I access to them since everything is so compressed.....never had a v8 engine
Thanks
John
jrdnhsnbrg
Active LVC Member
Getting to the spark plugs isn't hard, just gotta pull the covers off the front and back banks, pull the ignition coils and the spark plugs are directly below them.
Terrapin88
Active LVC Member
I know this thread is dated, but like others said it's not hard at all. I suggest getting a 5/8" magnetic spark plug socket. If you don't have one then one of those $2 telescoping magnet tools you find at part stores at checkout works great to get the plugs from the wells. You'll also need a socket extension too.
Remove your negative battery terminal. Unbolt one side of the steel bar that spans over the rear of the engine and slide it out of your way. Also pop the PCV valve out and move it out of the way. Use your ratchet and a small metric socket (10mm IIRC?) to remove the 2 bolts on the coil cover. That's the one that says Continental on it. Before you remove the covers though it's a good idea to wipe or vacuum off any crud around it that could fall into the plug wells. Once you take of the cover you'll see the coils. Unsnap the connector for each coil and then just pull them out with your hands. They are just sitting there. From there you'll see the pugs. I like to do them one at a time. Pull the coil, then plug...lube the coil and plug and put them back in. Don't wrench down hard on the plugs when putting them back in. There is a torque spec for them that escapes me, but if you don't have a torque wrench just snug the plugs back in. No need to gorilla them. Same for the coil cover bolts. They have a torque spec and it's pretty light. If you were to wrench those bolts down too hard you may warp the cover. Just something to be mindful of.
It's really an easy no thought involved kind of job. As far as tools you'll need a couple of common socket sizes (one SAE and one metric), a ratchet, extension bar, a 5/8 plug socket or deep well regular socket and a magnetic telescoping tool (a magnet on a string will work too) to pull the plugs out of their wells. I like to put a dap of anti-seize on the plug threads and some dielectric grease for the plugs and inside the boots where they will contact the plugs. Both of those things can also be found at the checkout counter in small ketchup packet sizes. One packet will do 8 plugs and boots. No need to slather it on, just a thin coating is all you need.
Remove your negative battery terminal. Unbolt one side of the steel bar that spans over the rear of the engine and slide it out of your way. Also pop the PCV valve out and move it out of the way. Use your ratchet and a small metric socket (10mm IIRC?) to remove the 2 bolts on the coil cover. That's the one that says Continental on it. Before you remove the covers though it's a good idea to wipe or vacuum off any crud around it that could fall into the plug wells. Once you take of the cover you'll see the coils. Unsnap the connector for each coil and then just pull them out with your hands. They are just sitting there. From there you'll see the pugs. I like to do them one at a time. Pull the coil, then plug...lube the coil and plug and put them back in. Don't wrench down hard on the plugs when putting them back in. There is a torque spec for them that escapes me, but if you don't have a torque wrench just snug the plugs back in. No need to gorilla them. Same for the coil cover bolts. They have a torque spec and it's pretty light. If you were to wrench those bolts down too hard you may warp the cover. Just something to be mindful of.
It's really an easy no thought involved kind of job. As far as tools you'll need a couple of common socket sizes (one SAE and one metric), a ratchet, extension bar, a 5/8 plug socket or deep well regular socket and a magnetic telescoping tool (a magnet on a string will work too) to pull the plugs out of their wells. I like to put a dap of anti-seize on the plug threads and some dielectric grease for the plugs and inside the boots where they will contact the plugs. Both of those things can also be found at the checkout counter in small ketchup packet sizes. One packet will do 8 plugs and boots. No need to slather it on, just a thin coating is all you need.
bradyelich
Well-Known LVC Member
Use any oil, only have to ensure it meets the oil specifications in the owners manual. I looked at Canadian tire's house brand synthetic and it did not meet Lincoln specs.
Continental Mark II
LVC Member
I take my 2000 Continental to the Lincoln dealership for oil changes. The use a semi synthetic.
Terrapin88
Active LVC Member
I would like to try synthetic but being that my car has 150+K miles on it I am a little afraid of the synthetic finding a leak or two. Besides, at this mileage I doubt switching to synthetic would matter to the engine.
MooJohn
Well-Known LVC Member
I never understood why synthetic oil has such a mystique surrounding it. It isn't a cleaner or detergent; it will not remove deposits or unclog any passages. It isn't any more "liquid" than any other oil of the same weight would be.
It simply is more resistant to breaking down under heat, it does not form sludge (if burned it turns to ash) and its viscosity is less affected by temperature. That's it. You don't know how many times I've seen "If you switch to synthetic you can never go back" and other such urban legends. It's just motor oil of a better quality.
It simply is more resistant to breaking down under heat, it does not form sludge (if burned it turns to ash) and its viscosity is less affected by temperature. That's it. You don't know how many times I've seen "If you switch to synthetic you can never go back" and other such urban legends. It's just motor oil of a better quality.
Terrapin88
Active LVC Member
I agree with you MooJohn that some people seem to believe synthetic oil has some sort magic infused into it. I don't look at synthetic as mystical or magical, but I do know the amount of conflicting info I've found has been the cause for plenty of confusion.
I've read both your argument about it not removing deposits thereby not causing leaks and the other argument claiming it does and will cause leaks in motors with weak or failing seals, multiple times in multiple places. It's my understanding that the main tangible difference between dino and synthetic oil is that the length of time between changes is longer with synthetic. I like to change my oil @ 2500 miles and that is a habit I wouldn't change regardless of which oil, be it synthetic or dino, so I'll probably continue using the dinosaur juice until the tap runs dry.
I've read both your argument about it not removing deposits thereby not causing leaks and the other argument claiming it does and will cause leaks in motors with weak or failing seals, multiple times in multiple places. It's my understanding that the main tangible difference between dino and synthetic oil is that the length of time between changes is longer with synthetic. I like to change my oil @ 2500 miles and that is a habit I wouldn't change regardless of which oil, be it synthetic or dino, so I'll probably continue using the dinosaur juice until the tap runs dry.