This morning when I tried to start my car, it won't start, and I can only hear the rapid click sound. And when I pull the key out, it start to honk. I have to use the remote to turn the horn off. It does not have any problem before, any ideas? Is it possible the battery is dead(06 ls, original battery), or it maybe something else?
car won't start, and horn honking
- Thread starter lan_baba
- Start date
kaball
Well-Known LVC Member
Battery would be my guess. These cars do some funky stuff whey the battery is dead or dying.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Just in case you need another vote, your battery has failed.
Please be sure to replace it with another one that has a single vent tube connection and to connect the vent. Anything else is not really safe.
Please be sure to replace it with another one that has a single vent tube connection and to connect the vent. Anything else is not really safe.
milehighmikey
Dedicated LVC Member
Ensure that the battery terminals are clean and tight, although 6 years in florida should be able to kill a battery.
hite337
Hite Performance
Its the vent tube that connects to the battery to allow it to vent to the outside air, not into the trunk
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
The LS battery is special in that it is sealed with a single connection for a vent tube. Looking at the battery in the trunk, the vent connection points to the back (if I remember correctly). A small black hose should be connected to it. The hose runs to the outside, under the trunk.
The purpose of the vent tube is to make sure that all hydrogen that the battery vents goes outside the car instead of inside the trunk and cabin. If you've ever seen a hydrogen explosion over a car battery, you know why this is very important.
Ford/Lincoln dealers have the right battery for a little over $100. You can also get the correct ones from some other sources (like Napa) for about the same price. The ones off the shelf at most auto stores and Walmart, do not have this needed safety feature. (Cars that have the battery under the hood don't need the vent tube.)
Stopsign002
Dedicated LVC Member
Orielly auto has vent tube'd batteries of the right size and wattage. I think I paid $120ish?
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Car wouldn't start and the horn started honking, my initial impression was "this is not your car." 
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
The factory battery is 650 CCA, (Cold Cranking Amps). Like joegr said, a little over $100 at the dealer. But for about $10 more you can get a 750 CCA battery, that might last a little longer.
---Mike---
---Mike---
had this same problem; ive got an underground garage which sees wide temp fluctuations in ohio springs/falls so i kind of tested this over the course of a few mos; the pcm reads ambient air temp and cca's in the battery probably every few minutes. whenever the pcm thinks cca's are too low to start the car (it factors in ambient air sensor reading) it sets off the alarm to let you know that you better come start your car before your a_s_s gets stranded. i reccommend getting the 750cca battery. def need the vented one as everyone else said. i would especially recommend the 750 if you frequently park anywhere with frequent fluctuations in temp bc the 650 still had plenty of life left, just barely would keep enough cca's to start it when it got cold. the ambient air sensor doesnt always read correctly, so it would set the alarm off before it probably needed to, esp when the sensor came back colder than actual temp. it kept sounding the horn at night and waking everyone up, so i pulled the horn relay... ha nice try. when the security system trips, it drains the sh*t out of the battery quite quickly (lights, horns, sensors/modules/etc all run more than 'normal'). long story short, my battery was on its last leg, but the car completely killed it bc of the system constantly tripping out (usually unnecessarily due to inaccurate ambient sensor reading in the constant temp fluctuations in the garage). the 750 cca battery cured everything noted above, plus a problem with the car saying a door latch was open when it wasnt. I had replaced the trunk latch switch/sensor when i narrowed it down to that switch being the one that would phantomly open/close. i even went as far as putting the old switch back in to test the theory: not a single problem with the alarm or the open latch since the new battery installed.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
thats an interesting theory, thats for sure.
the car is not trying to warn you, unstable and insufficient amount of power causes the alarm to to false, its as simple as that. its not a feature, its a symptom.
scjmc
Dedicated LVC Member
My Texas/Florida 02 LS needed a new battery in 08, so 6 years. My Florida 06 had a new battery this year. Hopefully your problems will be solved when you get the new battery.
The 02 started doing weird stuff (at the end of the origonal battery's life) even when it would still start fine.
The 02 started doing weird stuff (at the end of the origonal battery's life) even when it would still start fine.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yep, another wild bull theory...
2002_lincolnLS
Custom User Title
... WHAT?!?!?! :bash: :drunk:
i agree with the person who said it is also a 'symptom' ; if anyone has a method to deactivate im all ears bc it baffled me until i finally bought a battery about a yr before i needed to.
to the haters: it works the same way your heated windshield wipers work you crackheads. youve never heard of it bc its a pretty tough feature to sell on a spec sheet. try dumbing that process down to 2 or 3 coherent words. wait i shouldn't challenge yall on this one,'dumbing things down' is a task yall might be able to excel at...
to the haters: it works the same way your heated windshield wipers work you crackheads. youve never heard of it bc its a pretty tough feature to sell on a spec sheet. try dumbing that process down to 2 or 3 coherent words. wait i shouldn't challenge yall on this one,'dumbing things down' is a task yall might be able to excel at...
jjcool00
Dedicated LVC Member
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Step 6: Form cup-like gesture with hand.
Step 7: Place hand under faucet, then SLOWLY flush the sand out of your vagina.
Step 8: If still sandy, repeat steps 6 and 7.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
There's nothing to deactivate. Your battery was too weak to provide enough current for the starter and enough voltage to keep the electronics out of reset at the same time.
I agree, fairly certain there isnt any way to deactivate.
car started right up, battery had 12.5 volts, cca's were what you would expect from a decent 60k mile, 6 yr old battery. it would start flawlessly and the only reason the battery would drain was bc of the alarm going off. car had the juice to do at least 3 cold starts in a row, so it definitely had the juice to maintain everything electronic. if the car wasnt parked where it would get cold drafts, it had no problem with the alarm going off and no problem with the battery draining. trust that i fcked with it for months before coming to this conclusion, parking the car in warm spots of the garage, cold spots of the garage, etc. lincoln service person confirmed it, called it a 'feature' albeit not a very good one. said people are always bringing cars in at the end of summer thinking the security system is hosed, and always end up changing to a new battery with more cca's (even though the other battery still had plenty to operate the car sans the 'feature')
Long story short, PCM does the same type of calculation the advanced battery checkers do where it can give you an ambient air temp at which your vehicle wont have enough CCA's to turn over. it uses the same sensor it does to turn on your heated wipers.
my ambient air temp sensor might be bad, but i think most are semi-inaccurate in the sun or anywhere near a cold draft (ie. park your car in the sun for 8 hrs and jump in, car says its 125 outside for a min or two when its really 84).