Recent content by unclemuck

+1 on black boots; most of the “natural” rubber colored ones I saw were already torn anyways. Honestly give used a shot if you’re on a budget, I was able to get a couple that only had like 2k miles on them. I only paid about 1k for the car, and while I’ve put more into it than that to bring it...

(2005 LS Sport) I recently replaced all my arms except for the front lowers; Can confirm, felt like a crazy person trying to confirm cross-references for each one. I ended up going the (mostly) used, ebay route, which worked out rather well - just had to pick through the ones that had shot...

I mean.. I think you probably just circled your problem right there. Either way, you’re gonna want to fix this like yesterday, and worry about the radio after. The passenger side fuse box is right down under where the a-pillar meets the dash..

Yep, you have to disconnect the fuel line and move a few things aside. And yep pretty cozy on that side.. Image is LH bolt sequence Torque spec is 89 lb-in (10Nm) for the valve covers Attached procedure for LH as well

I find that behind the dash can get pretty warm when the heat is on, which is understandable considering there are numerous ducts in there. Enough that I put in a fan to keep the raspberry pi cooler. Never hit thermal throttling, but it was getting up there. Never noticed the front face getting...

Yeaaa big PITA; I just did this a couple weeks ago; Got lucky and found a set while I was at the junkyard that still were in great condition for $5 each; They can be had new from Ford for ~$40ish each also. Considering it’s hard to find a reasonably priced direct fit sub at 2-ohms, I was glad I...

Update: So, I've verified the DCCV is functional - When I ground out each of the wires, I can hear the solenoids closing, and had someone sit in the car, and the temperature goes go down. Not all the way to 'cold' - possibly a low refrigerant issue as well, I haven't checked that yet, but not...

No worries; Sure seems like more magic than not sometimes... I’m familiar with electronics, I don’t understand why it’s giving me both the code for short to ground and the code for open circuit, it can’t be both. This is after running a new wire from the DATC to C134 that replaces brown/green...

Not sure if this is accurate, but found this schematic without much model info. If it doesn’t actually go through any other modules, I’m even more confused how it can be both shorted to ground and an open circuit...

Well, got a new wire run, but that didn’t work. Same 2798 with new 2797. It must go into something else, and is now picking up the original ground and now an open circuit from being snipped. Suppose I’ll wait for the wiring diagrams before going any further.

Heh, that’s ok, thanks Joe. I’ve got some time, so I’ll probably just try running a new wire today (unless you think there’s a reason not to, if it connects to something else along the way). Tracing that harness leads me to believe the break is likely going to be somewhere really unpleasant to...

Doesn't appear to be any of those connectors close by the DCCV, unfortunately. I see where the harness runs in front of the radiator, and up over the driver's side fender. Doesn't appear to be any easy access aside from cutting into the loom. Not seeing anything out of the ordinary there...

That would be excellent, thanks. I’ll see what I can find. Yep, right above the DCCV, I’m familiar with that connector, will work back from there. Appreciate the help, Joe.

OK, that seems to be getting me closer.. reading battery voltage on BN/GN right before the connector, BN/BU was ~150 mV, so the code is right. Any tips on where to look for a fault as I trace it back? Not super easy to see given the snaking and loom..

I've checked those circuits multiple times, and just now again; Pinpoint test H10, >10k ohms: C1034-1 = ~1.2M ohms C1034-3 = ~1.5M ohms Which directed me to swap the DATC. Happy to oblige if you have any other ideas for things to test, I'm just at a loss here for where to go, other than...