Idk about you but Id rather clean some dust than have brakes that suck at saving you from an accident. I'm going to be ordering EBC yellows, rotorpros lines and some sort of slotted rotor when it comes time to change my brakes.
Okay so now theres this too.. In this first picture Im assuming this is the engine cradle, correct? Picture 2 is of a broken bolt from what Id imagine to be a subframe connector. Pictures 3 & 4 are of the rear bolts/bushings in the LCA's and you can see how they both have moved.
Kinda, they arent really loose. I have to pull on a breaker bar pretty hard to back them off before I can adjust the arm back to where it should or needs to be.
The rear bolt/nut on the lower control arms. Ive never had them off, they keep sliding in what Im assuming to be adjustment slots. Ive backed the nuts off a couple threads to straighten everything back out but I torque them to the 129lbs it calls for as soon as the wheels are straight and the...
So I was having some issues with my passenger side front lower control arm "loosening up" and throwing the alignment way out of whack. Tightened it back down several times and for about 1500 miles its been fine. Today, while pulling out of a parking lot, the drivers side LCA does the exact same...
LS1's belong in old Datsun Z cars :D
You should spray it and go find the guy from Spec clutches and race his LS, see how that small block Chevy stands up to a mod motor.
Get some measurements on the control arm bushings so that we don't have to spend 700 bucks for a piece of rubber that just so happens to come with a control arm.
I got friends that are "dubbers" with VR's, Ive pulled a couple car lengths from rolls and digs.. They didnt have anything special tho, intake and exhaust..
I replaced mine at 62K and Im going to be doing it right this time around at 68K with an 8.8IRS set up.. I beat the crap out of my car(holeshots ect) and use SST a lot..
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