Recent content by girlfriendsls

Update - May 2017 I replaced the regulator that came with the aftermarket 200 amp alternator with a stock OEM value Motorcraft regulator and it has worked ever since. No electrical problems. Lights don't dim with rpm changes. Taurus fan is still working like a champ. Note, the black squared...

LOL!!! Nope, wasn't my direct team, I'm in Los Angeles. That was due to a Kansas City power issue. Official response: "Before the start of the bottom of the fourth inning of tonight's World Series Game 1, a rare electronics failure caused both the primary and backup generators inside the Fox...

Manager, Engineering, Fox Networks Engineering & Operations. Our team configures and maintains the production and post production equipment used by Fox Broadcast, Fox Sports, and FX to name a few. The most visible things we support are the studios you see on Fox Sports, including the NFL...

I replaced one evaporator temperature sensor and one discharge air temp sensors while I had it all apart. Did you check the high and low side pressures? - Nope, don't have the tools. What were they and what was the outside temperature? - F-ing hot outside at the time, which is why I'm trying to...

Replaced evap temp sensor, driver side. No change. (actually did both driver side sensors, did not do passenger) Added refrigerant, no change. It tends to work after I hear a valve making hissing noise. Just need to get the valve to hiss more often. LOL The passenger is warmer than the driver...

Is it rough or a misfire? A misfire could be a Coil on Plug going bad, common problem (in later Lincolns they were recalled). But again, you need the codes to be sure.

A/C starts off cold, eventually blows hot as outside temp, but turns cold again if I rev the engine to 3,000 rpm. Sounds like a vacuum controller of some sort has a loose hose, but I read the air diverters are electric solenoids? Any ideas from the experienced folks here? Thanks!

It was a recently rebuilt stock alternator (rebuilt in January). The leaking fan pump shorted out the alternator, so I replaced it with a stock one. Then I did the Taurus fan conversion after that. We do use the seat heaters in the winter.

Well, it took two months, but the battery finally drained low enough to kill the car using a stock 110 amp alternator and a Taurus fan (Bring on the I told you so's). It must have been really close to take that long. I installed a 200 amp alternator with a small pulley so it charges at lower...

I just used whatever fusible link was attached to the Taurus fan from the junkyard. Not sure on specs, but if it worked on the Taurus... I used a 40amp Ford relay for power.

Status Update - The LS has been running fine since January with a stock alternator and Taurus electric fan. Granted, it also has a stock stereo. No problems with charging or overheating.

The directions I used to repair mine were below (it costs money). It's a pain getting to the gear and then hoping the glue holds. Mine started slipping again, so that's why I suggested cutting grooves in the motor shaft. http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/Ford6disc.htm

Anybody try this idea? "if we place a 125Hz pulse width modulated (PWM) square-wave signal on the alternator gencom line of our "new" alternator, we can vary the alternator voltage setpoint by changing the duty cycle of the waveform."...

Here is a pic showing the clearance I gained by using a Taurus fan.

I emailed this company to get info and a price on their voltage control module. It's for use with a PCM system. http://www.highoutputalternator.com/voltage%20control%20module.htm