Recent content by Broseph

Got both on hand already, thanks. Is there a recommended RPM or something for setting the throttle lever stop? As mentioned I tightened the bolt to keep the throttle open a little more so the car wouldn’t stall (I marked the original spot, only took 3/4 turn. Just curious, so I don’t set it...

Haha. Told you I’m not good at this. Thanks for helping me out. I’ll give it a go tomorrow. With the plug connected, would the easiest place to get measurements be on the back of the plug by pulling out the weather-proof grommets?

I was just thinking because battery voltage increase some with RPM increase. That makes sense now that you explained it. The measurements were taken at the plug (disconnected from IAC) Two IACs being faulty, I dunno.

Just got 12.7 as it was about stall around 600. I adjusted the throttle plate slightly to keep it from stalling to test. At ~800 it was 11.8. Not sure if the voltage is rpm dependent. Seems counterintuitive to me to have lower voltage at slightly higher RPM. Either way it’s elevated when running.

Checked the IAC resistance even though it’s new just because (9.5-9.7). Key on (engine not running) I was getting 10.8 volts between terminals. What would I be looking for with engine on? Voltage drop or fluctuation?

This only works with the engine running correct? If so, means I’ll need a second body or hold the throttle lever open to keep it running.

So test for any voltage on the other “brown” wire? I guess I’m confused with how power is provided to the IAC that there would be voltage to both wires. The yellow striped wire gets constant voltage, and the PCM controls voltage through the other wire to ground and shut off/close the IAC?

Truthfully I’m a novice at electrical diagnostics. For testing if the PCM is grounding the brown wire, would it just be a continuity test between that wire and any ground (engine bolt etc)? Key on, or engine running? I can test the IAC resistance but it is new (I replaced mine like the OP once...

How would you go about determining a PCM issue with this, or could the other wire be a factor? With the key on run, I’m getting 12 volts at the plug to IAC on what is an orangish/red with yellow strip wire. Tried checking with engine running before it died and was still getting power to that...

Maybe it was 2001 Oct/Nov when the engine tensioners were upgraded in the 3.9 to the metal version vs plastic and that’s why that stuck in my head.

I know my LSs and she’s most definitely not an 03. I just don’t know manufacturing dates apparently Not sure why November came to mind, I felt certain, but door tag says June. Now Im curious and want to check my VIN for exact date. Which I suppose June would be close enough to the 03...

Interesting. I could’ve sworn there was something else suspension wise besides the shocks that the sport had. Guess I just assumed all sports had 16mm because I do. I have a Nov 2002 production date so that would make sense with the mid-year changes that happened in July.

So what I’m hearing is owners with a sport LS are stuck with pressing in new ball joints, or rolling the dice with an aftermarket knuckle assembly? If so, what brand ball joint? I can attest that Moog is not a good brand like they were a decade ago with my two failed joints.

Not to be confrontational, but why aren’t there reman knuckles in circulation then? Unless the available units are and just being stated as new. I also don’t see anything in the service manual about ball joint removal. I agree it’s not rocket science, but there is a difference to sending...

This has been discussed before on changing joints. I did the originals with a friend on a harbor freight 15 ton press and some custom axle nuts welded to square tubing to get things to line up. PITA and the results…well we know where that ended up. The “S” shape of the knuckle makes pressing a...