Recent content by ack

now the question, is there going to be valve damage or am i going to be able to replace the secondary chain and move on with life?

UPDATE i finally gave up and pulled the drivers side valve cover even though it showed good compression. how i don't know. the "rear" timing chain is broke. at least i have found he problem. the bad is i have NO time to work on it. i just called a local guy and he is working up a quote mon...

it is just a 2 wire. i believe the three wire is the hall effect.

from my research the pulsing of the sensors will create a very small ac charge. somewhere between .3 and 1 volt IF they are working correctly.

not sure if it is a valid check but i reinstalled the cps and pierced the wires with an ohm meter. with the meter set on ac volts i had the car cranked over and i did get some very low ac volts. i only have 3 plugs in the engine at the moment and we only cranked it a couple revs so who knows if...

ok got it out and with the flats on the cams aligned with each other when i look into the crank position sensor hole the "window" that is aligned with the hole is kinda half mooned on the outside. it is different from the other holes in the plate. i looked the switch over real good and the face...

i have no clue what to look for on the crank when i line the flats up. i can't seem to find any marks on the damper pulley.

i don't have the proper comp tester so i kinda rigged one. the passenger back showed roughly 110 and the drivers side a bit higher. not satisfied with the results i pulled the passenger side valve cover. both chains are tight. hardly any slack. i really dont see how it could skip a tooth. both...

it is a 3.9 v-8. i tried the maf with no help. i have no lights flashing on the dash. i pulled a plug and had the wife crank it over. it has good spark. i am leaning towards timing. i have fuel and spark but it won't fire. will the crank position sensor have any effect on this? one other thing...

last night my daughter shut off the lincoln ls and after a few minutes tried to restart it. it tried to start but was really rough and died quickly. we towed it home and last night i checked the schrader valve on the fuel rail and there is good pressure. i also gave the intake a good long shot...

most will say to check the degas bottle and it very well could be, but mine did the same as yours. mine ended up being the hyd. cooling fan. the front seal was worn enough to allow the oil level to drop enough to where the fan was not spinning at its full rpm. i refilled the level and all was...

yes those would work. i did not know for sure what i needed until i pressed the old one out. i looked through the list and seen one that would work after some slight mods. just need to turn the od down as you said and then cut to length. if i remember the id of the end caps and bolt size are...

yes

the od of the bushing is 1.8515 . the length is 2.12 . the id of the bushing without the reducing bushings is .630 . i reused the end caps as the bushings i used had the same id. the bushings i used had a 1.5 od so i made a steel sleeve to fit. after filing the arm it ended up 1.5 inches wide...

i will stick with my home brew bushings with those at 140$ each.