120k mile tune up questions.

loomis22

loomis22

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I am approaching 120k probably in a month or so and I would like to know everything that I should replace. I have never had to go through a big tune-up and I would like to take care of what I can myself so I don't have to pay an arm and a leg with the rest of the things that I can't do. So if someone has a check list with parts needed (and part numbers if you can) or any suggestions, that would be cool. (I tried searching but didn't find much).
 
First question, what parts have already been replaced and at what approximate mileage? No need in overkilling you with things to do if some of those things have already been done.
 
marcredd said:
First question, what parts have already been replaced and at what approximate mileage? No need in overkilling you with things to do if some of those things have already been done.
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Water pump, harmonic balancer, belt tensioner, serpentine belt, all done around 108k. That's about all I have done to it beside oil changes lol.
 
Sounds as if you have a solid running ls. Inspect the suspension, brakes, and radiator hoses. Change the plugs. Has the transmission fluid been changed? Touchy subject there as some will say do not mess with it. Those are the things I did around 110,000 but I bought mine with 103,000 to begin with. I now have 204,000 and running well.
 
marcredd said:
Sounds as if you have a solid running ls. Inspect the suspension, brakes, and radiator hoses. Change the plugs. Has the transmission fluid been changed? Touchy subject there as some will say do not mess with it. Those are the things I did around 110,000 but I bought mine with 103,000 to begin with. I now have 204,000 and running well.
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I just did the brakes too actually lol, like 1k ago. I will check the hoses. I'm pretty sure the transmission fluid hasn't been changed, I bought it with ~98k and I don't think the 1st owner changed it. Change the spark plugs? What about coils and gaskets and such?
 
I had the same question about the coils but spoke to a reputable mechanic here and he felt it was okay not to to touch them unless I wanted to. I didn't until 140,000 and only because 2 played the "foul game" on me. Don't forget filters as well. Air and fuel. Which gaskets are u referring? Valve cover? If there are no leaks, in my opinion, let them be.
 
marcredd said:
Sounds as if you have a solid running ls. Inspect the suspension, brakes, and radiator hoses. Change the plugs. Has the transmission fluid been changed? Touchy subject there as some will say do not mess with it. Those are the things I did around 110,000 but I bought mine with 103,000 to begin with. I now have 204,000 and running well.
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Really, 204k? I was going to post a thread about life expectancy and I think I just got my answer. I bought mine because I wanted something more comfortable to drive to work (50 miles each way) than my Mountaineer. I bought it with 83k and it has been great so far. I have had it about a year and have 117,000 on it. I am getting ready to do the same thing the OP is doing, but was going to ask how many miles I can expect to get from this car.

Seeing that you now have 204k have you noticed an increase in required maintenece etc.?
 
Not at all. Actually, I am still running the plastic timing tensioners that everyone hates. Last thing that went wrong was the degas bottle 2 years ago. My key to longevity has probably that I drive at highway speeds 90% of the time so I always am turning a lower rpm. Like most here, I change my oil faithfully at 3000 miles. I almost hate to sell the engine but I am having one built and having zero miles(and more hp) means more at this point. LOL.
 
Lots of fluids: transmission fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, differential oil, coolant all should be "flushed" or replaced. Transmission filter, air filter, fuel filter, and cabin air filter should be done as well. Spark plugs and O2 sensors will probably pay for themselves at this point, too. Then start checking the suspension for failing bushings or ball-joints and replace, in pairs at least, as necessary.
 
Thanks for the tips everyone, I really appreciate it. Hopefully I can get it to 200k+, or at least until I upgrade to a Gen II V8 lol.
 
Is replacing the transmission filter and flushing the transmission fluid something that can be done at home or is that something I need to have done at the stealership? How much would it run me to have it done?
 
All depends on how naturally mechanical you are. A good mechanic may not murder your pockets if you go that route.
 
You can usually get that done at a shop for less than $150. Plus if it messes up they get to buy you a new tranny. I am a mechanic at a shop for a company that has a dozen locations and it can be a messy endeavor. Just make sure that where ever you take it they offer a warranty. For a small price they will usually look over the car and inform you of any other things that need to be done just make sure they take you out there and prove to you want they recommend
 
I am at 121000 and I need to service my suspension. +1 on checking ball joints and bushings. The IRS has components suspesnsion wise to look at too.
 
Yeah I already have bushings that I need to put on, just waiting for a nice weekend (no garage). And I'm fairly certain that at least the springs have been replaced not that long ago since last time I looked at them they still had paper on them lmao. But I will check them out since I'm now rocking very heavy wheels :cool:. How do I go about checking to see if a ball joint is bad?

Should ignition coils be replaced or is that another one of those things that shouldn't be messed with until they go bad? If I should replace them then Motorcraft part #DG517 is for the V6 right?
 
loomis22 said:
Is replacing the transmission filter and flushing the transmission fluid something that can be done at home or is that something I need to have done at the stealership? How much would it run me to have it done?
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Dropping the pan and replacing the filter is easy as long as you can get under the car.
 
dont forget to check the sway bar end links. and you can check ball joints by jacking the car up a few inches (make sure its on a jack stand on the chassis) stick a long bar under the tire and make an up and down motion. watch the ball joint and if there is a lot of movement then it is bad
 
If I may interject, what is the exact brand, P/N, and source for replacement plugs? I have an 03 V8. Mine is over 100K, and I'd like to do the plugs to keep it running crisp. The car is totally stock, and will remain so. Cost is not a factor as much as getting the propler and best replacement plug available.

Thanks!

JD
 
TXLS said:
If I may interject, what is the exact brand, P/N, and source for replacement plugs? I have an 03 V8. Mine is over 100K, and I'd like to do the plugs to keep it running crisp. The car is totally stock, and will remain so. Cost is not a factor as much as getting the propler and best replacement plug available.

Thanks!

JD
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I believe that everyone will have different ideas on what plugs to use. It is a personal preference. I use E3's in mine and love em. Others hate them.
 
TXLS said:
If I may interject, what is the exact brand, P/N, and source for replacement plugs? I have an 03 V8. Mine is over 100K, and I'd like to do the plugs to keep it running crisp. The car is totally stock, and will remain so. Cost is not a factor as much as getting the propler and best replacement plug available.

Thanks!

JD
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I'm going with Autolite XP104's for mine.
 
JoshMcMadMac said:
Dropping the pan and replacing the filter is easy as long as you can get under the car.
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Cool, I do most of my work at a freind's place, he has all the tools and a jack and jack stands so it sounds like it should be easy enough, like changing the oil almost lol. Now what filter is good? I'm looking at rockauto and there a bunch of different looking things in the transmission filter category.
 
lsscott said:
dont forget to check the sway bar end links. and you can check ball joints by jacking the car up a few inches (make sure its on a jack stand on the chassis) stick a long bar under the tire and make an up and down motion. watch the ball joint and if there is a lot of movement then it is bad
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Awesome thank you for the tip.
 
TXLS said:
If I may interject, what is the exact brand, P/N, and source for replacement plugs? I have an 03 V8. Mine is over 100K, and I'd like to do the plugs to keep it running crisp. The car is totally stock, and will remain so. Cost is not a factor as much as getting the propler and best replacement plug available.

Thanks!

JD
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I bought OEM replacement Motorcraft plugs on Ebay. Good price, though I cant remember how much.
 
expect $3-$5 for platinums and around$7-$10 for the iridium. thats either autolite or motorcraft. you cant really go wrong with either one. personally i prefer an iridium plug cause in my opinion they last longer. just dont do bosch or champions and you should be ok
 
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