How often do you go wide open throttle?

How often do you go WOT?

  • Never! I'm a sunday driving granny

    Votes: 3 5.6%
  • Rarely. Maybe once or twice a month

    Votes: 7 13.0%
  • Once or so a week

    Votes: 8 14.8%
  • Several times a week

    Votes: 10 18.5%
  • MANY times a week!

    Votes: 26 48.1%

  • Total voters
    54
Ha, I don't know if I should mention this for risk of looking like a complete idiot but I will anyways. :p Came back from the dyno tune in June. My 1-2 shift is just about at 7Krpms and the 2-3 is at about 6900. I decided to dance on the line of disaster just once. I manually shifted into first and cracked off into 2nd gear hitting the 7200 rpms rev limiter. Welp, the battery light flickered momentarily. Needless to say, I replaced my alternator just a few weeks ago. LOL

lol. i spun out in the rain the other day, saw 7 ish. :)eek:) trans didn't keep up. alternator didn't work the rest of my short drive home. haha. it was back to working the next morning though.

i built this alt myself and its been a champ. its seen tons of 6000 rpm runs, many 6500+ rpm runs, lots of 100 mph blasts, a few 140 mph blasts, and at all times is charging 2 batteries and runs about 600 watts rms of speakers. total trooper. forget box store remans. get a local shop to build your alt.
 
cuz it spins them like 18000 rpm or something.

would you like being spun 300 times a sec?? lol.
 
alt pulley diameter = 2.625
crank pulley diameter = 6.75

so. 6.75/2.625 is a ratio of 2.571

2.571*7000 rpm =18000 rpm.

dang. good guess. :)
 
Ah. Well that makes a whole lotta sense. Maybe I can have more WOTs since I'm not trading off driving another battery and extra amp... :shifty: :D
 
maybe there is some wierd correlation between my 7k rpm run and battery dying..
 
Keep in mind also that 200 more rpms on the tachometer is not 200 rpms on the alternator pulley. It's more. With that said, 7K rpm shifts in my car seems to be fine, but 7200 rpms is crossing the line. Also not the greatest idea on stock internals. :shifty:
 
Never....I dunno, maybe I'm getting old or something! Just like to relax while I'm driving. I'll leave the WOT for the younger guy's or...girls!
 
Keep in mind also that 200 more rpms on the tachometer is not 200 rpms on the alternator pulley. It's more. With that said, 7K rpm shifts in my car seems to be fine, but 7200 rpms is crossing the line. Also not the greatest idea on stock internals. :shifty:

what happens if you spin the stock guts too fast? what will be th first to go?
 
what happens if you spin the stock guts too fast? what will be th first to go?

I think probably a valve having and intimate encounter with one of the pistons would be my guess. Some sort of a valvetrain failure would be my guess. Things can get scary if the valves start to float at the higher rpms and that is due to the fact that the springs can't keep things totally in line anymore. I don't wanna find out! :p
 
lol. i spun out in the rain the other day, saw 7 ish. :)eek:) trans didn't keep up. alternator didn't work the rest of my short drive home. haha. it was back to working the next morning though.

i built this alt myself and its been a champ. its seen tons of 6000 rpm runs, many 6500+ rpm runs, lots of 100 mph blasts, a few 140 mph blasts, and at all times is charging 2 batteries and runs about 600 watts rms of speakers. total trooper. forget box store remans. get a local shop to build your alt.

+1 on getting it rebuilt..my alternator just took a sh*t and called around for prices, pep boys and auto zone were more expensive than the local small shop that rebuilds starters, alternators and small electric motors..my old one was a ford alternator or at least had a ford sticker on the top..and the guy had ONE rebuilt alternator on the shelf which looked identical to mine so I picked it up and put it in yesterday..works like a charm. Aparently our alternators were built by Mitsubishi? According to the shop owner..and I trust what he says judging by the thousands of alternators and starters he had piled up on the shelves of his shop.
 
+1 on getting it rebuilt..my alternator just took a sh*t and called around for prices, pep boys and auto zone were more expensive than the local small shop that rebuilds starters, alternators and small electric motors..my old one was a ford alternator or at least had a ford sticker on the top..and the guy had ONE rebuilt alternator on the shelf which looked identical to mine so I picked it up and put it in yesterday..works like a charm. Aparently our alternators were built by Mitsubishi? According to the shop owner..and I trust what he says judging by the thousands of alternators and starters he had piled up on the shelves of his shop.

Yup, iirc 93-96 were Mitsubishi.
 
what happens if you spin the stock guts too fast? what will be th first to go?

I would guess valve float or some kind of valvetrane failure, or throwing a connecting rod, spun bearings..take your pick. Gets me thinking, what are our stock connecting rods made of?
 
I would guess valve float or some kind of valvetrane failure, or throwing a connecting rod, spun bearings..take your pick. Gets me thinking, what are our stock connecting rods made of?

Legos dipped in Jb weld.
 
I think probably a valve having and intimate encounter with one of the pistons would be my guess. Some sort of a valvetrain failure would be my guess. Things can get scary if the valves start to float at the higher rpms and that is due to the fact that the springs can't keep things totally in line anymore. I don't wanna find out! :p

Yep I think your right. I think it would be awesome to spin to 8k and not destroy something
 
I drive it quite hard. But trying to avoid full throttle. My transmission is fried, I can smell the clutches after every trip.
Going to drive this transmission until it cannot even go forward anymore. Got another one in the attic :)
But WOT is quite rarely only because of the transmission. Maybe once every 2 days?
 
Gets me thinking, what are our stock connecting rods made of?

Nothing fancy. They are powdered metal, and for a high revving dohc are TINY. If you compare them side by side to a Manley H-beam rod, they look like toothpicks.
 
I guess I have to go with never too. I dont even drive it once a month, and full throttle in it is underwhelming on the best days and down right disappointing on the bad ones.

-Alan
 
Yep I think your right. I think it would be awesome to spin to 8k and not destroy something

Everyone says how they want to spin these motors higher and higher but has anyone even had theirs on the dyno up to 7000-7500 rpm? Does it make any power up to that point? I would imagine the motor would self destruct at anywhere near 8k rpm but if it did survive I doubt it would continue to make any hp.
 
Everyone says how they want to spin these motors higher and higher but has anyone even had theirs on the dyno up to 7000-7500 rpm? Does it make any power up to that point? I would imagine the motor would self destruct at anywhere near 8k rpm but if it did survive I doubt it would continue to make any hp.

with the right cams intake and a set of longtubes, it will make big power in the higher rpms
 
Everyone says how they want to spin these motors higher and higher but has anyone even had theirs on the dyno up to 7000-7500 rpm? Does it make any power up to that point? I would imagine the motor would self destruct at anywhere near 8k rpm but if it did survive I doubt it would continue to make any hp.

No pun intended, but I think you're 'on the mark' with that comment. With the W3Z2 EEC I put in my Mark, it revs close to 7K when floored, but you can feel the power dip up over 5500 or so. I'm sure a good exhaust with long-tubes will help some, but I'm sure it would take aftermarket cams to truly raise that power band!

BTW, I'm gonna get a good base dyno sheet with only the bolt-ons that are on the car now and I'm sure it will validate my suspicions...

Also, if I EVER wanted to rev near 8K, gotta swap those valve springs for beehive style!
 

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