why does my mark not down shift when i hit the gas

sorry

I did not mean to send that to you i was talking to josh man. Why so mean? Sorry I don't know as much as you do about this car and this site.:mad::mad::confused:
 
yea...well after a bunch of PMs from him...then his last snippy reply via PM.

screw being nice...cant believe you even put TOMMY and NICE in the same sentence..LMAO

I have to admit, you have busted my gut today. I'm like you, I hate PM's with questions. Put that :q:q:q:q on the board ONLY IF SEARCH GIVES YOU NOTHING. Also, if placed on the board, you might want to keep it out of the for sale section.

If Frog had been here, this would have been the top notch thread of the day. It's been good so far though. Good info, good laughs. Tommy, I would say you put your best into this. Nicely lol :p
 
Thanks

Thanks for the info nolimit and thanks for not being an azz to me like some other people:D:D:D:D:D
 
No problem. Sometimes all of us start off wrong on a site but you did have one of the best helping you. You might want to get that fixed because his knowledge does come in handy. It has for me more times than I can count.

Now, if you have around $100.00 to spend, I would go buy these things.

1. New MLPS
2. CRC MAF cleaner
3. New TPS
4. New air filter, if the one you have is dirty.
5. Throttle body gasket

Installing the MLPS is simple to do. Unplug, unbolt the two bolts, slide off, reinstall the new one and make sure it's lined up as it should be and bolt it down and plug it in.

Remove the 4 bolts from the air box using a long flat head and take the air box out after unplugging it. Take the MAF out so that you can see both sides. Spray both sides of it and get it good and clean. Let it dry for a few minutes before putting it back together. The bottom bolts of the air box are hell but it can be done.

Once that's all done, remove the air intake tube, remove the pass side wiper arm, remove the pass side cowl. Have an 8mm socket with a ratchet ready and some extensions. take out the two bolts holding your throttle cables in place. Now go to the throttle body and remove the 4 8mm bolts holding it on. When you have the throttle body loose, pull up on it and on the back side of that, you'll see a plug holding it down. That's your TPS. Unplug that and pull the throttle body up and lay it over the intake.

Two screws holds the TPS onto the throttle body. Take those out, remove the TPS you have on now and replace with a new one. Get your new throttle body gasket in place. By now, your back should be feeling some pain, from bending and getting the gasket to stay in place is annoying and sometimes a little dab of elmers glue but only enough to kinda help hold it still. Don't forget to plug in the new TPS before you bolt the throttle body down. Once it's tight, put your two throttle cable screws back in place and then put the rest back together. You should be fixed after all of this unless you have bad solenoids inside the pan of the trans.

Maybe just trying a new MLPS first will fix it. Try one at a time but cleaning the MAF is simple and cheap as hell to do and it can't hurt anything.
 
Thanks a lot

Dude you guys have been real helpful and i have the money so josh and i will probably do that tomorrow. We have to do my lower control arms they are screeching as if you stepped on a cats tail. I think they are about to snap at the ball joint.:(
 
Hey Tommy thanks for the lead. I should be able to check that voltage reference with the old scanner. And thanks for the voltage. I probably could have found the reference voltage in alldata but was at a loss where to start for some reason. We have cleaned the MAF, and seafoamed it a couple times. I think the car is also having IMRC issues to boot I am afraid. :D
 
Hey Tommy thanks for the lead. I should be able to check that voltage reference with the old scanner. And thanks for the voltage. I probably could have found the reference voltage in alldata but was at a loss where to start for some reason. We have cleaned the MAF, and seafoamed it a couple times. I think the car is also having IMRC issues to boot I am afraid. :D

check all data for the pcm pin # for tps voltage

that will be an easy place to instrument the voltage and its right by the gas pedal which makes testing a 1 man job
 
weird shifting

I was also having a weird issue on the shifting on my 95 LSC, so i had purchased the speed demon coils from www.supercouperformance.com for $100 a pair and boy that really resolved the weird shifting of my mark, now its smooth with no hesitation, ive also have the 9mm ford racing plugs with the original motorcraft spark plugs. hopefully this solves your issue.

regards.
ramon
 
I was also having a weird issue on the shifting on my 95 LSC, so i had purchased the speed demon coils from www.supercouperformance.com for $100 a pair and boy that really resolved the weird shifting of my mark, now its smooth with no hesitation, ive also have the 9mm ford racing plugs with the original motorcraft spark plugs. hopefully this solves your issue.

regards.
ramon


Yeah, when I have shifting problems, the first thing I check are my coils. :confused:
 
I'm sorry but that looks like someone just trying to sell some speed demon coils. Shifting from drive to 2nd to 1st is not going to have anything to do with coils.

As a matter of fact, the original OP probably already has a shot TC. I remember mine doing the same thing when it was cold but sometimes it would stay in 3rd even when it was hot but it was because my TC in the 94 was just dead. It had seen it's better days. When rolling up to a stop sign or red light, it would still be in 3rd and go dead. Putting it in park and restarting it would bring it back to neutral. Another reason I had to hurry up and get the 98 trans swapped in because it's days were limited.
 
i agree screaming demons are crap...bogus, fluff.

but i have seen what was dianosed as trans/shudder issue being missfire related

my 95 did it too..and it was the one year ols crappy MSD wires.


i do agree w/ you rich..that did smell alot like SCPSPAM
 

Members online

Back
Top