Upgrading Brakes/ Rotors

yabadaba

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Anyone upgrade their stock rotors to slotted and/or drilled rotors? Does it increase breaking performance or is this a wasted upgrade since my engine is pretty much stock.
How hard is it to get off the old rotors? I was also wondering if anyone has tried using black/carbon rotors.
thanks!
 
Anyone upgrade their stock rotors to slotted and/or drilled rotors? Does it increase breaking performance or is this a wasted upgrade since my engine is pretty much stock.
How hard is it to get off the old rotors? I was also wondering if anyone has tried using black/carbon rotors.
thanks!

Yep, mine are slotted and drilled. I can't say it makes a huge braking difference but it will definetley help with the life of your brake pads. I bought a new set on eBay I think called brake stop or quick stop..can't remember exactly. But they have a ton of options.

As far as getting off the rotors it's one of the few very easy things to do IMO.
 
Thanks for posting. Do you notice any noise that's different with your kind of rotors? Also, what kind of pads do you have? I've had ceramic for a while, but I heard that until they warm up a little bit they are not at as effective in braking.
 
I've got Stoptech drilled and slotted rotors with their ceramic pads and they they are a little noises. But they seem to fade less and stop a little better.


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You can upgrade to the Jaguar S-Type "Sport" rotors by changing the brack caliper bracket and getting a different rotor. This changes the rotor from 300mm to 320mm in the front. There's also the S-Type R change-over that's documented on here too, although that's a lot more expensive to do and parts are harder to come by.

I'm not a fan of drilled/slotted rotors for street cars but that's my opinion. If you want it go for it. Worse case scenario they're a little noisier sometimes and might wear the pads more.
 
How does using a rougher braking surface (rotors) help brake pads??

What? Google it...they have drilled and slotted rotors for a reason I didn't think I had to explain. I'm not sure what your saying. They help keep the pads cooled down which doesn't burn them up as fast and helps it stop faster. And it's not rougher it stops just as smooth as OEM.
 
Thanks for posting. Do you notice any noise that's different with your kind of rotors? Also, what kind of pads do you have? I've had ceramic for a while, but I heard that until they warm up a little bit they are not at as effective in braking.

Yeah I have ceramic pads, and no I don't hear much noise you can if you listen for it but no nothing worth noting. I have to slam on the brakes every night for deer around here no issues on slowing down I was impressed at first how fast it stopped for being such a heavy car.
 
Slotted and/or drilled rotors are mostly useless for a street car. They do little other then look cool on your car unless you also auto-cross your street car.

Both slotted and cross drilled rotors came about back in the day when your brake pads were mostly organic. It was a way to get the gasses that the pad gives off at extreme temperatures away from the rotor surface as well as cooling the rotor. Organic pads do not like high heat and will therefore fade a lot after one or two hard stops.

Modern brake pads that are semi-metallic, ceramic, carbon, etc, don't have this issue with outgassing. If anything they work better with more heat in the rotor so cooling is less of a concern. About the only benefit you have over blanks is a slotted rotor because the groove gives the brake dust and water or whatever is on the rotor surface somewhere to go. This also helps prevent glazing since the brake dust getting trapped between the rotor and pad at extreme temperatures is what glazes over.

Case in point: Nascar runs slotted rotors. They don't cross-drill them at all. I'm pretty sure if there were valid performance gains to be made with cross drilling a rotor it would be in Nascar where they are trying to eek every minute bit of performance out of their brakes.

You're likely to get more of a performance difference out of your brakes by just changing the pads. Going from an old worn pad to a new one will make a huge difference. All you need the rotor to do is be made of a good quality material that will manage heat well and avoid warping. Both slotted and cross-drilling a rotor compromise it's structure and make it more prone to cracking or warping.

But then again, on a street car you're likely to never brake enough that this becomes a problem. So it's really all about looks. And by braking enough I don't mean an emergency stop for a deer. I'm talking about flooring the car up to 60, slamming as hard as you can without locking the brakes up until you get to 10mph, then flooring it back up to 60 and repeating the process 5-6 times in a row. That is the scenario where any of this starts to pay off, which is essentially an autocross.
 
I second the fact that the Jaguar S-type Sport 320mm front brake upgrade along with a set of decent semi-metallic pads front and rear make a very nice upgrade from stock. IMNSHO, the LS V8 Sport models should have been equipped that way from the factory. Yes the Sport models at least had semi-metallic pads from the factory vs. ceramic pads in the non Sport models, but they should have had the 320mm front rotors as well. I run a set of Porterfield R4-S pads on the LS, since I have never been a fan of any ceramic pads - YMMV. Braided SS brake lines tend to slightly firm up the pedal feel as well.

I have seen low quality aftermarket as well as OEM factory drilled rotors develop cracks at HPDE track events on other cars. Personally I would stick to slotted rotors is you go in that direction. On the street they are strictly for looks anyways.
 
I'm a fan of Akebono Euro pads. They've served me well on my LS. Likely a little less bite then the Porterfield R4-S but I like a more linear pedal feel.
 
Slotted and/or drilled rotors are mostly useless for a street car. They do little other then look cool on your car unless you also auto-cross your street car.

Both slotted and cross drilled rotors came about back in the day when your brake pads were mostly organic. It was a way to get the gasses that the pad gives off at extreme temperatures away from the rotor surface as well as cooling the rotor. Organic pads do not like high heat and will therefore fade a lot after one or two hard stops.

Modern brake pads that are semi-metallic, ceramic, carbon, etc, don't have this issue with outgassing. If anything they work better with more heat in the rotor so cooling is less of a concern. About the only benefit you have over blanks is a slotted rotor because the groove gives the brake dust and water or whatever is on the rotor surface somewhere to go. This also helps prevent glazing since the brake dust getting trapped between the rotor and pad at extreme temperatures is what glazes over.

Case in point: Nascar runs slotted rotors. They don't cross-drill them at all. I'm pretty sure if there were valid performance gains to be made with cross drilling a rotor it would be in Nascar where they are trying to eek every minute bit of performance out of their brakes.

You're likely to get more of a performance difference out of your brakes by just changing the pads. Going from an old worn pad to a new one will make a huge difference. All you need the rotor to do is be made of a good quality material that will manage heat well and avoid warping. Both slotted and cross-drilling a rotor compromise it's structure and make it more prone to cracking or warping.

But then again, on a street car you're likely to never brake enough that this becomes a problem. So it's really all about looks. And by braking enough I don't mean an emergency stop for a deer. I'm talking about flooring the car up to 60, slamming as hard as you can without locking the brakes up until you get to 10mph, then flooring it back up to 60 and repeating the process 5-6 times in a row. That is the scenario where any of this starts to pay off, which is essentially an autocross.

Yeah I guess I can agree they are not the best. Now that I think of it I did have the right front warp on me awhile back. And the looks of them make me wanna say they're great :)
 
What? Google it...they have drilled and slotted rotors for a reason I didn't think I had to explain. I'm not sure what your saying. They help keep the pads cooled down which doesn't burn them up as fast and helps it stop faster. And it's not rougher it stops just as smooth as OEM.

To me, "Helps the life of the brake pads" looks like you're saying it increases the life of the pads, as in it increases their mileage. Heat buildup is more of a short term thing. Yes, heat will damage pads, but street driving really won't cause that kind of damage.

The marginal gains from the extra heat dissipation (which is debatable) will be easily outweighed by the extra wear on the pads from the choppy surface. To the argument about pads and rotors being too stiff to dip into the slots, everything flexes. Further, rotors do wear down, which means the pads are eating into them.

As for the heat dissipation, it doesn't work as well as you think. You stop the car by converting rotational energy into heat by way of friction. While yes, drilled/slotted rotors offer greater surface area, they also reduce rotor mass, therefore reducing heat capacity. Since you still produce the same amount of heat for a given stop, the extra heat has to go somewhere. The rotor will reach a higher temperature, as will the rest of the braking components in the wheel. It's a tradeoff

About the only benefit you have over blanks is a slotted rotor because the groove gives the brake dust and water or whatever is on the rotor surface somewhere to go.

Also weight reduction, reducing both the inertia of the vehicle and the rotational inertia of the rotor. Some professional race teams run drilled and slotted

As for cracking, I believe there was one Porsche that had the holes made in the casting process, rather than post-cast drilling, to avoid cutting into the metal's "grain"
 
i run them, and there is no additional noise. checked pads about a month ago, and
everything looked good. i couldn't really tell of a performance increase, but i don't
drive that car very fast in any case.
 

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