Transmission Problem

Tommy B said:
Same thing happened to mine (2003 V8) several years ago. Took it to a local transmission shop who told me this was a common problem with these transmissions, that they lacked a bushing in the transmission case such that the case would wear and the solenoid would no longer function properly. True? I don't know but it sounded good. I like the car so I ponied up for a rebuilt transmission (not Jasper) with the allegedly missing bushing, but the cost was $3500 installed, soup to nuts. Still going strong 50K miles later. That $7100 number is pretty steep, but i believe the first gen trans was different from the second gen.
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These transmission shops a lot of times will not tell you the truth that is my findings here in my town for sure. That is why places like LVC are so good to help people from possibly wasting their money on a useless repair when you could have done something for less than 1/4 of the cost. These solenoid packs do not always throw codes either I know mine didn't but changing all that fixed my issue and did not need a rebuild. I mean to me the first step is to always drop the pan and look for metal. Because usually if something went terribly wrong in these things you will see lot's of metal or at least some chunks. If no metal change the valve body/solenoid pack and fill her back up with the correct fluid for your year car, throw a new filter in and a new pan gasket and most likely it will fix your issues. The hardest part of it all is the solenoid cable that one bolt is a pain to do at the end.
 
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Tommy B said:
... that they lacked a bushing in the transmission case such that the case would wear and the solenoid would no longer function properly. True? ...
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Well, it's not like they just forgot to put one in. They designed it without one. The problem is that the steel shaft of the servo wears (over time) the bore (hole) in the aluminum case. While this does not cause failure on all of the transmissions, it is certainly a weak spot. Rebuilders (including Ford) now drill out the hole and install a steel sleeve. Oddly enough, some of the servos themselves have broken too. I don't know if that's related.
There is an alternate repair for the servo bore problem. It's a servo with o-rings on it. It works, but only for a while. I think it's worth it on Rangers and Explorers, since you don't have to drop the transmission on those to change it out. On the LS, the transmission has to come out, so it might as well do it correctly with the sleeve instead.

All that said, there are other problems with this transmission too. Driving too long with these problems tends to destroy the clutch packs, damage the bands, and so on. If you've driven around a good while with transmission problems, especially if they are getting worse, it's probably going to take a full rebuild. Stay away from the chain shops at all costs! Find a good local independent. Find out who all the local mechanics send transmission problems to, and go there. It should be about $2K.
 
Yea, the $7,100 quote was jaw-dropping. Not a chance I am paying that.

I have the car on jacks, but that is as far as I got with it. I have a kid that plays on 3 different sports teams, so I’ve been busy.

I’m hopeful this $300 solenoid pack does the trick. If it doesn’t, I have seriously considered just buying a different LS instead. There are currently 2 Gen 1’s for sale locally for $1,500 that look ok. I could just transfer the best parts on mine to the new one, and just sell or scrap my old one.
 
Check the band when you remove the reverse servo. When you push the little handle seems if it pushes back
 
Guys,

Just a status report, and a question:

1. I have the car jacked up as high as I can get it, which for me is only about 16-inches off the ground. I have a cheap $50 jack and stand kit from Harbor Freight, can't get the car any higher. It sucks, but it is what it is.

2. I have dropped the pan. The transmission fluid was red and surprisingly clean. There was no metal bits in the pan.

3. My solenoid pack had 7 screws holding it in, and those have been removed. There is a final bolt on the top of the transmission outer manifold that goes through the solenoid pack from the top (through the wiring harness.) I was only able to see the bolt using a tiny mirror on a stick. The bolt appears to be 8mm, but I am not sure.

Long-story-short, the bolt seems impossible to get to. I have to hunt for it with the 8mm wrench blind, and I can't seem to land it on the wrench flats of the bolt. If I ever do land the wrench, I will only be able to turn it maybe 1/8" turn at a time. How in the world did you guys remove this bolt???

Thanks,
Jason
 
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I'm doing the same exact thing as you. But it's a 10mm. I was told to get a 10mm swivel ratchet wrench and cut it to 3 1/2 inches
 
I wish someone would do a video. They have one for 5r55s but it's for the explorer and theirs are easier they have plenty of room
 
It is a 10mm bolt, and I was able to break it loose, but its going to take a year or two to get it out with the 4-1/2" wrench I have.

I've never hated Ford's engineers as bad as I do today. They should be ashamed of themselves.
 
Black_Sunshine said:
It is a 10mm bolt, and I was able to break it loose, but its going to take a year or two to get it out with the 4-1/2" wrench I have.

I've never hated Ford's engineers as bad as I do today. They should be ashamed of themselves.
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Yes I agree... but you must remember the Engineers don’t care they are all rich enough to have the dealership Mechanics break there backs and knuckles on these cars ...They design them but will never have to work on them ...After working on the cooling system you will see the Common sense ( or lack there of ) this engineering team brainstormed up
 
AmsterDutch - yes, I have done a good bit of work to my cooling system, so I know what you are talking about. In general, I really like these cars, but it sure has been hard to work on it. Not good when you have to take a car’s windshield wipers off to replace the cabin air filter.

GM is not much better. My wife had an Acadia, and you have to take the front wheel off and remove the plastic under-trim to change a burned our headlight.
 
Black_Sunshine said:
AmsterDutch - yes, I have done a good bit of work to my cooling system, so I know what you are talking about. In general, I really like these cars, but it sure has been hard to work on it. Not good when you have to take a car’s windshield wipers off to replace the cabin air filter.

GM is not much better. My wife had an Acadia, and you have to take the front wheel off and remove the plastic under-trim to change a burned our headlight.
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Yes, I agree with Joegr ...you don't need to remove your wipers...it's as simple as taking the push pins out and pulling up the cowl...but as far as the Transmission it was a new design for Ford and it's very complex ...two Over-drives 2nd and 5th also it's main reason for the closed transmission without a dipstick is because you're not suppose to work on them...engineering designed it to be serviced at dealer with a high-tech scanner/computer ...but that doesn't mean the Indies don't have computers to diagnose them... Mine does thank God... But yeah I agree Car Company's are burying starters, coolant components, generators and everything else as deep as they can so the common man isn't equipped with the proper tools to do the job and mostly they use a scare tactic and unfortunately they succeed ... Look at the new Audi LMAO! It's like a jet cockpit
 
AmsterDutch said:
Yes I agree... but you must remember the Engineers don’t care they are all rich enough to have the dealership Mechanics break there backs and knuckles on these cars ...They design them but will never have to work on them ...After working on the cooling system you will see the Common sense ( or lack there of ) this engineering team brainstormed up
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I have to put in a word in engineers' defense...at one time I worked for an OEM and my task was to design the bracket holding the AC compressor. They had an engine mock-up set in a simulated engine bay (this was before solid CAD systems). The other "critical" items, alternator, power steering pump, air pump etc were already located. The AC compressor was last on the priority list so I had to work around everyone else's installation. Taking into account the weight of the compressor, plumbing the hoses and electrical and dealing with the expected vibration while lining up the belt, I came up with a design. It was not one of my most elegant designs and I'm sure there are many mechanics cursing me out. Oh yeah, I forgot to add, I had a max $$ for tooling the bracket and paying for it and the fasteners. Just the reality of designing and building the hundred thousand parts that go into a car that is supposed to last 100K miles.
 
Knuckles said:
I have to put in a word in engineers' defense...
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Don't bother. I gave up. They just don't understand the constraints involved. They're all for adding a few dollars here and there and ignoring the manufacturing needs. Almost none of them were willing to buy the car new. It would have been an even bigger failure if it costs more, and engineers would have been fired for ignoring their budget and their constraints.
 
AmsterDutch said:
Yes I agree... but you must remember the Engineers don’t care they are all rich enough to have the dealership Mechanics break there backs and knuckles on these cars ...They design them but will never have to work on them ...
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.

But this is also why the dealer techs are continuously going back to school... Sometimes on the manufacturers dime!

Long term mechanically inclined owners should invest in the factory shop manuals... And be happy you're not charging yourself dealer rate on " non warranty work " .
 
Black_Sunshine said:
It is a 10mm bolt, and I was able to break it loose, but its going to take a year or two to get it out with the 4-1/2" wrench I have.
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I have a 2.5" stubby 1/4" drive micro tooth ratchet made by MAC that came in handy for that harness bolt. You might want to look for something similar. It also comes in handy for under dash work.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
I have a 2.5" stubby 1/4" drive micro tooth ratchet made by MAC that came in handy for that harness bolt. You might want to look for something similar. It also comes in handy for under dash work.
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Look I Admit that I don’t account for the $$$$ Cost of manufacturing and Labor and of course the high bill of engineering...
I’m not a genius or Master Mechanic just a common man who is willing to learn and get my hands dirty unless the proceedure would make more common sense to use Shop Lift ...sometimes when I learn about certain things on the LS and other cars, I dream of the chance to engineer something with a little more common sense ...I’m not an Engineer...never will be ...don’t mean to hurt feelings ...I guess I just need to quit typing everything I’m thinking ....
 
No hurt feelings here either... And I didn't mean to offend anyone either. I was just making some points,,, and agreeing with the perspective of Joe and Knuckles. Ever notice that even with lighter materials that today's cars weigh as much as their predecessors of 50 years ago? The LS weighs as much or more than the 1974 charger I had as a youth. That's because they're packing more " stuff " into a smaller, more efficient package. Today's Engineers are challenged to pack " 10 ibs of shit into a 5 lb box.
 
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