The next progress thread: 1998 Midnight Grey LSC
- Thread starter LaserSVT
- Start date
Raped Ape
Dedicated LVC Member
Last edited:
Couldn't sleep so at 4am I started to wash both cars and kill some bees. Since I pissed the bees off so much out of their hive they all came out and hovered around my shop lights. I killed 200-300 at the nest and then another few hundred by the car. Ground is COVERED in bee bodies now. :lol:
After washing both cars I organized my spare parts and the boxes that I thought were Moog outer tie rods turned out to be sway bar end links. :lol: Perfect cause they are completely shot on the Grey car and I was trying to figure out how to get cash for new ones. :lol:
Ill wait till Sapperfire comes over cause he has the bits I need to put the front braces in and he is also supposed to meet lincolnboy to get the rear bags. So I guess Wed I will install the new links, braces and rear bags.
Car is coming together quite nicely now.
After washing both cars I organized my spare parts and the boxes that I thought were Moog outer tie rods turned out to be sway bar end links. :lol: Perfect cause they are completely shot on the Grey car and I was trying to figure out how to get cash for new ones. :lol:
Ill wait till Sapperfire comes over cause he has the bits I need to put the front braces in and he is also supposed to meet lincolnboy to get the rear bags. So I guess Wed I will install the new links, braces and rear bags.
Car is coming together quite nicely now.
4 awg. Thats all thats needed since both sub amps are Class D mono blocks. The sub box is bolted to the car so it dont move and is hard to steal.
The sub amps are wired to run 1000 watts RMS each. So thats 2000 watts for the subs. A bit overkill but the dampening factor is very high so the subs really hit hard and have excellent attack and decay.
The main amp is 100 watts RMS per channel.
There is also an Alumapro capacitor bank wired to the sub amps and I have a custom power setup that has a 200 amp continuous duty relay that drops out when the system is off so that the capacitor bank does not stay charged when the car is off.
The sub amps are wired to run 1000 watts RMS each. So thats 2000 watts for the subs. A bit overkill but the dampening factor is very high so the subs really hit hard and have excellent attack and decay.
The main amp is 100 watts RMS per channel.
There is also an Alumapro capacitor bank wired to the sub amps and I have a custom power setup that has a 200 amp continuous duty relay that drops out when the system is off so that the capacitor bank does not stay charged when the car is off.
wickedwhiteVIII
Well-Known LVC Member
Looking nice!
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Yeppers, I still have a pause.
I hope you meant pulse as a pause could be quite bad....
Well my hopes and dreams of doing a Koni swap has been crushed.
So since the drivers dampner is bad but the bag is good and I have a newish passenger side OEM one I guess I will dismantle the two and put the drivers bag on the passenger shock to give the car some control again.
So since the drivers dampner is bad but the bag is good and I have a newish passenger side OEM one I guess I will dismantle the two and put the drivers bag on the passenger shock to give the car some control again.
My Great 8
Dedicated LVC Member
I never knew you could take those apart! I learn something new everyday. Thanks for the pic!
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Does anyone else make inserts that could be made to work?
Yeah they come apart pretty easily. The shock in the one with the bad bag seems just as good as my newish passenger side one. So instead of dismanteling a perfectly good passenger spare I will just use the shock in that picture and the good bag thats on the drivers side right now. Gonna do all that tomorrow since I will be installing the swaybar links, rear bags and chasis braces.
Not that I know of. Wont know till I get the measurements from someone.
One thing that could be done if someone was adventurous enough would be to get any T-bird front shock of choice, cut the lower spring perch off and weld the air bag lower perch on it. Seems like that would work but the heat from welding the perch on may damage the shock.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
You're running 2400 rms and using 4 awg
Rather the amps are d,g,h,w,u or p you need bigger wire. You should know that, even if it's overkill for the subs.When i was a teenager i ran 2800rms between 3 amps w/ 4 awg and was using the stock 90a alt. Did it work? Yes. Should i have ran 0awg and upgraded my alt? Yes.
I understand if you aint got the money for the right wire and using this as a temp solution for some tunes, I just hope you do upgrade in the future.
This post isn't meant to ruffle your feathers laser, and theres really no arguing the fact that 4awg is not enough for that setup.
I know what I am doing. Not changing anything. There is only a .12V drop with the system playing full tilt on a 50hz bass note between the battery terminals and the post of the amps power relay.
If you do not know how amp classification works then you should not comment.
My headlights do not even flicker.
I have done over 3000 stereos and scored near perfect for my MECP.
If you do not know how amp classification works then you should not comment.
My headlights do not even flicker.
I have done over 3000 stereos and scored near perfect for my MECP.
98lincmk7lsc
Dedicated LVC Member
How much current are you pulling through those wires, though?
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Exactly..
I don't care how many installs you've done, 4awg isn't enough. Are your 1000rms amps pulling 50 amps each? Then it would be ok.
P.s. I might've missed it through the thread but are you using 1 or 2 runs of 4awg?
120 amps during transient peaks of bass heavy music. Wont see above 70 during rock music playback. The type of wire, jacket material, length, ground length and cap banks are all variables in choosing wire size.
Showing such a minimal voltage drop (less then 1%) while at near max power consumption proves that I am in no way taxing the power wire.
Dont be cheap and select a 1500+ strand power cable and you have the ability to run smaller wire. I would have a larger voltage drop using a 2awg 400 strand power wire.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't buy into that strand count crap... and my EE friends can prove why it doesn't mean :q:q:q:q.
That being said 90% of systems I have ever seen had such :q:q:q:qty grounding and cable crimps that almost all their problems were solved right there.
That being said 90% of systems I have ever seen had such :q:q:q:qty grounding and cable crimps that almost all their problems were solved right there.
And you, thats why I ignored your PMs about stereo questions. You think you know it all anyway and argue just to argue.
You don't care how many systems I have done? Who the fock has more experience, me or you? Who has won many many DB drags? Who worked at an award winning shop for a decade? Who has installed over 100 $10K+ systems. Who here has passed MECP testing?
Me Sparky, not you.
I will admit to a mistake I made though. I have the amps at 2ohms so they are only putting out 600 watts RMS each. Total RMS power is 1600 watts. 1200 watts is at 80% efficiency.
87TTOPGT420
Dedicated LVC Member
Ya your fine with your power cable
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
First of all i asked you what dd dash kit you used...Thats it..You were being a little bitch and wouldn't answer a simple question.
And I have never claimed to anyone esp you that i'm king sh!t w/ stereo's. Idk where you got that from nor do i really care.