separator plate differences

[dnehthend]

if you remember my last thread I drilled out my 98 plate using the 97 specs then while bolting in my valve body I bent the plate because the 2-3 retainer piece partially fell out

I've managed to get a another plate off of a 98 something or other but it has two minor differences from my old plate. There are no new holes but two of them are different.

I can't seem to find a list of what every hole is for in my shop book so maybe you can let me know if these holes will be ok.

the image is quite large so I'll just post a link to it, the new plate is on top
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e45/dnehthend/plates.jpg

 

[1BadMoJoe]

Please avoid droping transmision parts on a pile of gravel

[IMG]http://http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e45/dnehthend/plates.jpg[/IMG]

Yikes, why would vice grips be needed on right edge of seperator plate?

 

[dnehthend]

Yikes, why would vice grips be needed on right edge of seperator plate?

huh?

the new plate has some fluid on it giving it a textured look, and even the lightest of scratches look intense in the picture because it's a highly reflective metal

so will that oval hole cause me any problems?

 

[NoLimit95]

I've managed to get a another plate off of a 98 something or other but it has two minor differences from my old plate. There are no new holes but two of them are different.

That would tell me not to use that plate but that's just me.

 

[dnehthend]

That would tell me not to use that plate but that's just me.

If I could find a comprehensive list of what each hole is for I would be a lot more comfortable about making a decision. Finding an exact replacement plate has proven to be very difficult.

I do know the circle hole has to do with shifting as some of the jmod instructions call for you to drill it out.

 

[NoLimit95]

Try this and if it's not telling you what you need to know, start on page 10 and work your way up to the page below. It kinda explains some of the holes. 12, 13, explains some holes.

[url]http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page14.shtml[/URL]

 

[dnehthend]

I looked up the part numbers from the valve body this plate came from, looks like it came from a 98 grand marquis or mustang. When I look up the part number on my valve body it shows 98 mark viii. I always thought they would be identical.

Kind of weird that my plate looks like the 97 tccoa pics and the new plate looks like the CV.net pics. Well, it's not weird, it makes sense, they are different. I've never heard anyone mention it before though.

The actual valve bodies look identical (I layered them over each other in photoshop), only those plates are different.

 

[NoLimit95]

I'm wondering you actually have a 97 trans, just before they started putting the 98's in.

 

[dnehthend]

I'm wondering you actually have a 97 trans, just before they started putting the 98's in.

would it be stamped anywhere on the trans?

it does have the updated 1-2 accumulator

 

[1BadMoJoe]

Yes I remember my 1995 Having a plastic 3x5" tag attached to the side covered in grime and oil on it...Low Mid point near Middle and right above trans pan, forgot which side. My '95 had the old style and some dealer "said" they did the recall...not. I still had the Original Alum. and the old busted spring-Shifted like a DEmon though through 3rd.

 

[1BadMoJoe]

Try this and if it's not telling you what you need to know, start on page 10 and work your way up to the page below. It kinda explains some of the holes. 12, 13, explains some holes.

[url]http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page14.shtml[/URL]

+1 J-Mod instructions may be better than a B&M shift kit...The Picture above and the drill hole spec, for mine match the different years "directions" ; the pictures match mine for Gen1 1995, except the new paper gasket whiched needed moded.
Da Ja Voo your plates look simular to my new gasket, Something doesn't look right...Sorry can't be more help becuse I chunked a ValveSpring and resherching my current problem.

Been where your at and drilled my own plate to the above "MILD with Mod; another old 3/4 upper and spring into 1/2 lower springspot and brown truck upper Stiffer Spring spot" with an upgraded 7 plate and 98 F-250 truck carriers with an offset ring to keep thicker plates, frictions and Mech Diode clutch. My experiance is a Chirp 1/2 soft and hesidant bucking[35mph] 2 to 3rd shift like something is fighting and not let go of the shift; than a OverDrive overlaping 4th at same point.

[EDIT] Oh yeah, one more thing I would also like to know now what "every" hole is for so I can adjust the let go for the 2nd to 3rd Sun? Carrier {except Manual shifting at WOT,does what J-Mod really does}[Think this is where the 35mph trans B.S. enginered Shudder problem resides].
I hear a ECC W cchip/retune would help the missing 4th right into Overdrive n shift points. Personally I'm starting to get to the point of wan'ting O.D. right affter 1/2 shift than into O.D during the delay shudder to 3rd timing to see what than would happen...espeicaly with a Vortech in my plan.

Please...I'm currently Down for another eight count, I really need at least a behived ValveSpringed 96-98 driver side Bhead to get me mobile again.PM me