Plans while hibernating

SoulSoak

SoulSoak

Dedicated LVC Member
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Hey LvC, it's been a while. That's a good thing because I'm usually only here if I have a problem lol.

Anyhow, the LS is on jackstands for the winter while I'm driving this incredibly powerful 5sp 1998 Civic LX sedan.

I currently have Moog sway bar end links, Eibach pros and rotors and pads to install. Now forgive me for my laziness, I don't get much time anymore. Can one of you link me a good brake replacement thread? I'd highly presume I can do it without any help but I do recall people wasting their rear calipers by compressing them improperly.

Is there a special tool I need to rent that twists the brake piston while it compresses it or what? I just want to be prepared so I know what to do when I get some free time. I already know my Eibachs will be a pita, judging by others experience. But I'm yet to buy the shock assembly for them anyways, and I'm not installing the springs on my wore out shocks.

Anyhow I hope you all are doing well, God bless you all.
 
either go and rent the brake caliper tool from autozone, or buy a cheap set from harbor freight for like $30... as for a good thread, the brakes are exactly the same as most cars, you're best off watching a few videos from YouTube university to see what and how to do it.


just make sure you get the brake tool, and not that damn qube POS...
 
I just did the rent-a-tool from AutoZone. They charge a deposit...IIRC it was a couple hundred, but they refund the full amount (they did me anyway.) I didn't end up paying a single penny for the caliber tool.
 
Alright thanks guys. And yeah I've done brakes on several vehicles, I just know that the LS is actually an incredibly technologically and psychologically advanced spaceship that just falls under the "vehicle" category. So I interrogate every situation and task prior to performing it.

I'll probably just order the tool. Be prepared for this thread to come back to life when I start the eibach install haha. Have a good night fellas
 
2002_lincolnLS said:
I used needle nose pliers to twist mine in, worked fine.
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I've also watched somebody tear the rubber boot around the piston by doing that after it slipped off on accident...



funny thing, I also recommended that he drive less than a mile away from his house to rent the tool...
 
There are several ways to accomplish this, but the right tool makes it at least ten times easier.
 
Hey guys, it was relatively warm the other day so I was poking around under the LS trying to devise an exhaust setup. In doing so, I noticed that my rear tie rods toe links (forgive me if using improper terminology) are shot. The bushings are dried and split all around. Are these something that I can order and replace easily? I'd assume just count the threads and match the measurements of the new ones to the old ones?

Also I noticed that the rear sway bar end links look shot too (again, unaware of proper terminology but they appear the same as the front sway bar end links). Are these something I can simply order and replace myself as well or no?

Also, if both of these are easily replaced, do I need to take the car in to get an alignment after or no? Thanks for the help fellas.
 
Those aren't bushings. They are grease boots. There are metal parts inside, just like with tie-rod ends. The most correct term is rear toe-links, but they get called other things too. If you like the factory handling setup, then get the OEM parts. If you don't then you can get aftermarket. The aftermarket parts don't have the passive steer feature. You will need a 4-wheel alignment after you replace them. (Do set them as close to the old ones as you can before driving to get the alignment.)

Sway bar end links is the correct term. These do not alter alignment.
 
joegr said:
Those aren't bushings. They are grease boots. There are metal parts inside, just like with tie-rod ends. The most correct term is rear toe-links, but they get called other things too. If you like the factory handling setup, then get the OEM parts. If you don't then you can get aftermarket. The aftermarket parts don't have the passive steer feature. You will need a 4-wheel alignment after you replace them. (Do set them as close to the old ones as you can before driving to get the alignment.)

Sway bar end links is the correct term. These do not alter alignment.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot Joe. Since I'm doing this, should I just shell out the cash and install new front inner/outers as well?
 
SoulSoak said:
Thanks a lot Joe. Since I'm doing this, should I just shell out the cash and install new front inner/outers as well?
Click to expand...

That depends on if there is any play in the ones you have.
 
joegr said:
That depends on if there is any play in the ones you have.
Click to expand...


There isn't. Just rusty. Just figured it might be wise to change them before I get the alignment for the peace of mind of mind. But if they aren't a common failure then I suppose I'll leave them be.
 
SoulSoak said:
There isn't. Just rusty. Just figured it might be wise to change them before I get the alignment for the peace of mind of mind. But if they aren't a common failure then I suppose I'll leave them be.
Click to expand...

Well....... Rusty would cause me to replace them. Rust leads to failure.........
 
best thing about living where there are real winters. the rust is actually a feature, since so much is aluminum, you can usually tell which parts are due for replacement just by looking for rust!
 
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