Lincoln air shocks are affected by cold?

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compunuke

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I have an '87 Lincoln with air suspension. When the temperature drops to around freezing, the front end drops all the way down, whether I am driving the car or it is parked. This happened late last spring, then was fine all summer. Now that it is cold again, its happening again. I have the automatic levelling turned off right now [switch in the trunk], but if it turn it back on, the strange behavior returns.

I don't think this is a water freezing problem because I hear the compressor run, when I start the car. It runs for a long time to no avail -- the front end remains down. Eventually it is cut off by a timeout and the suspension warning light comes on. At least its not water freezing the compressor since it runs. Could water be freezine in the air bag solonoid valve or freezing the vent system valve causing all the new compressed air to vent immediately?

My gut feeling is that the computer is somehow affected because there are other unrelated problems like the Distance to Empty gets confused and displays erroneous values. The windshield wipers park and then immediately unpark on the glass. These latter problems are not related to the temperature, but may be related to the levelling problem if the computer is going bad.

How could temperature affect the automatic leveling? Is it the computer or perhaps the level sensors? How can I test this or what should I replace? The front air shocks were replaced at the end of last cold season to no avail.

This is a weird one ;-)
 
the cold bringing out suspension problems seems to be common. possibly some moisture in the soleniods, dryer, vent valve, ect that causes problems when it freezes. Also possible, is leaky o-rings on the soleniods, brought out more by the cold weather than the warm (the rubber o-rings shrink). My 91 continental does the same things, except its the back end.


The dash problems.. thats another story/problem. as are the wiper problems... I don't know about the 87... but on the 88-94 (my vintage Continental), the dash has its own computer (in the instrument panel).

To the best of my knowledge, the suspension computer does not control or affect any of the systems your having problems with other than the suspension.
 
My '93 does it too. It was 8 degrees last night and you could hear the air suspension struggling to adjust, when it's above freezing it works fine. Must freeze from all the moisture kicking up when you're driving, and just freezes on whatever controls it.
 
Co-miserating

So it looks like I have some company from others that have experienced cold weather suspension "lift failure" problems, but no clear solutions yet. My co-miserants don't point to the computer suffering from the cold as a likely target for repairs. Anyone disagree? I'm thinking that since I replaced the front airbags at the end of the last cold season, although I didn't replace the air valves at the bags, the jostling to disconnect and reconnect them without changing the behavior ... in other words, the system worked fine all summer ... eliminates them as a likely culprit.

So ... either the compressor/dryer or the signal causing the front bags to vent are starting to look like the most suspicious elements.

Anyone have any testing ideas? For instance, can I see that the bags are getting a vent signal even while they are attempting to fill, or some way to ascertain that even though the compressor is running, no air is actually going into the front bags?
 
best thing to do is replace them the air suspension is nothing but trouble it will save you a big headache and possibly money too :confused:
 
not to start a war....

but why replace a good part??? find the problem, then repair/replace as needed. if all we are suffering from is leaky o-rings... then why spend big bucks replacing air struts/bags or converting to springs when for a few (less than 10) bucks you can get the parts to fix the o-rings????

As one who knows how expensive it can get to fix an air suspension, AND being on a budget so tight that I regularly make the buffalo poop, I am NOT going to throw parts at a problem to fix it. I will find out what is bad, and repair/replace accordingly. some people (not pointing any fingers anywhere) have enough money to be able to throw it at a problem.. I don't, I will not, and cannot afford to do that.

As an example... I spent the past 4 weeks (only working a couple of hours a day on weekends only) working on a couple of cooling problems my 94 Jimmy had... yea, I coulda went out and bought all sorts of parts to throw at it... (symptoms where.. temp gauge acting crazy... 1st startup reading over 100 degrees, then drops to cold, then overheating, ect.. and of course to make matters worse, I had nearly 0 heat in cabin)... I spent the time to troubleshoot the problem, spent a total of 20 bucks (not counting the antifreeze and flush), and now Ihave good heat and my gauge works... I didnt' have a heater core problem.... I didn't have a radiator problem... all my hoses were good.... I did have a sender bad (there is 2 of them on this vehicle, and had to figure out which one was bad), and I had bad t-stat (stuck open)...

I know a lot of PROFESSIONALS that would have needed a lot more in parts to fix my problems.... I am sure some would have even suggested bad head gaskets, due to the funky way the temp gauge was acting....

Just pointing out that mindlessly throwing money at the problem wont always fix it, but may make it 'go away'... take the time, analyze the problem, and proceed accordingly...

If in fact someone finds out they have bad bags/struts... then by all means, the replacement with springs is a more affordable option... but make sure them bags are BAD first. I wonder how many people have replaced bags with springs when they really didn't need to, only to find out they didn't like the ride of the springs (some people like it, some don't).

enough rambling for now
 
Rambling

Thanks for contributing, MichiganTeddyBear, but ... I find little advice here. You note, early in your message:

"As one who knows how expensive it can get to fix an air suspension"

That would lead me to believe you have some experience, and perhaps you did the work yourself. You also state:

"find the problem, then repair/replace as needed"

That's exactly what I'd like to do. Since I have indicated that the bags are good and the o-rings are most likely good, what else would you suggest that would not be just throwing parts at the problem?
 
ok.. after re-reading... I have a question...

Does the rear work properly??? is the problem isolated to the front?

If so, I would suspect moisture in one of the solenoids freezing, or a leak in the airline/solenoid/airbag interface (o-rings) even tho you stated o-rings were most likely good. you can douse the entire assembly with soapy water from a spray bottle to help find a leak in that area. there is still a possiblity that one of the new bags put in is bad again.

And, temp could be the clue here.. them o-rings shrink a bit in the cold, they cold be a bit worn if they have been inserted a couple of times.

if the compressor runs and your not getting lift at one end only, then your leaking someplace on that end. It also most likely means that the air lines are intact and not leaking. A leaky airline will probably cause the rear to not raise either, because all the lines get pressurized at the same time (common point in the dryer assy). you could have a leak in 1 side, and the sway bar WILL pull the good side down too, not to mention if both sides are low, the computer will open both solenoids, and if you have a leak in the right side, the air in left side will leak out the right (thru the common point the airlines have at the dryer).

If the compressor/dryer/vent valve had freezing problem, then the rear would most likely also be down (especially if vent valve was stuck).

Since the compressor runs, the computer is trying to fill the air bags, now to find out why they wont take/hold air. I am not real familiar with the 87, but there may be fuses or fusable links in the circuit that have gone bad, or have bad connection thats preventing the solenoids at the wheel from opening.

if you can pull an air line off the solenoid somewhat easily, check to see how much air is comming out, and if your getting good pressure too. for the pressure check, see if you can hold your thumb over it (I know its not an accurate or reliable test, but an open vent valve or leak in other side will make itself noticed). it probably takes over 100 psi to lift the front... (it does on my FWD conti, and about 85 for rear).

If you want to see if the solenoids are getting power, you can check the voltage at the connectors.. I *THINK* (again, I am going from my 91, which is somewhat different) one side of the connector will have 5 or more volts on it, with other side 'open' if the computer wants that solenoid closed. The computer will ground the one side to cause the solenoid to open. if you get 5 volts or more on one side of the connector, you can try to open the solenoid by grounding the other side... again, I am using my knowledge of the 91 for this info.. it could very well be different for yours.

yea, I have fixed my conti's air suspension in the past.. it was parked for 2 1/2 years before I got it because it was mis-diagnosed as needing bags.. had a bad air dryer! it also sits right now because of the rear dropping in the cold! I havn't had the chance to get under it and check it out (between work and NW Michigan snow). I suspect either a bad set of o-rings, or a leaky bag.. leaning towards o-rings right now, mostly because they are lots cheaper! When I got my conti (it was given to me at no cost, owner was tired of storing it), I had intentions of changing over to springs... but as I learned more about how the air suspension on it works, I determined where my problem was, and was able to fix it for under 20 bucks for a junkyard dryer assy. Sure beat the 500+ it would have taken to convert it!
 
MTB getur done. been doing my own repairs for 40+ years good to see someone that is not afraid to tackle a problem and overcome it. the way i look at it is someone built it and it can be fixed. sometimes it gets on your nerves. like the bolt from hell on the front a arms. but with a cutting torch and welder i will prevail. steamfitter by trade and born american. happy new year. jd
 
it will be fixed... hopefully more sooner than later.. but it will be fixed!

got a line on a donor parts car... (with less than 50k miles yet!).. so I should be in good shape!
 
I experience the opposite, my system seems to work better in the winter. But it seldom gets below 37 degrees around here.


I'd check the O rings as extremely cold temps can make them harden making leaks more possible.
 
Thanks Guys. MTB, your last note contains lots of useful stuff to test like soaping the connections at the air bags.

First let me clarify that there is no problem at any temperature with the rear. Only the front sags.

With respect to the possibility that the o-rings might be at fault, I am a little confused by this evidence. The front will sag, all the way down, while driving the car or parked, if the temperature is cold [about freezing]. However, if I shut the system off using the shut off switch in the trunk then the car remains approximately level even when it is cold.

Doesn't this tend to rule out the O-rings? I think this is an "active failure" not a passive one. In other words, the computer decides to bleed air to let the front end down and either thinks it needs to continue doing that until the front end is all the way down, or cannot stop the air loss once it starts [in the cold weather]. Does the computer signal the valve at the top of the air bag to bleed air or is the connection just a passive connection between the line and the bag such that the air comes back up the line and is bled at the compressor/dryer assembly? I guess I'm asking if the lines remain pressurized all the time. Sorry I'm naive about how this works. You said "all the lines get pressurized at once," so I'm guessing the lines are usually unpressurized and the valve at the air bag gets a signal to open to let air in, or vent to let air out. I wish I had a diagram to understand how this valve works.

If I'm right about this being an active failure, then I suspect either the computer or the level sensors might be at fault or perhaps, when the airbag valve opens to vent, it freezes open because of a bad dryer allowing the flow of wet air during the venting action.

Any more comments about my new theories?
 
On my car, the lines are NOT pressurized all the time. only when filling or venting the bags.


Now it does sound like a problem with a sensor, or possibly a chafing wire (contacts the frame while car is moving/vibrating, therefore opening a solenoid and letting air out).

On my car, I have noticed that when it drops the front or rear, it goes down pretty fast, about 3-5 secs max for full drop to ground (had that happen on front when an airline I patched together when I replaced the dryer decided to 'unpatch' itself... hehe) When that happened, it took no more than 3 secs to go from normal height to the ground. Just something to think about, I don't know how fast yours is dropping, but it sounds like its going down fairly slow.

with that being the case, I am guessing that a solenoid is opening (at wheel), and the vent valve staying shut... that will allow that open bag to pressurize the entire air system, and with the 'leak proof' method of sealing thats used, you can bet that the lines all have small leaks someplace.. like at the solenoids, airdrier, any couplings that may have been added during a repair. the small leaks are not a problem normally, as the compressor can provide enough air to fill the bags, and when your venting, the vent valve should be open to prevent pressurizing the lines.

try this test if you can... get the car aired up to normal height. disconnect the electrical connections at the compressor. leave the air suspension switch in trunk on. drive it a little. see if it drops the front any. if it does, it rules out the compressor/vent valve as the leak source. then your looking at the solenoids at the bags, or chafing wires, or sensor/computer problem.
 
There is one other possibility, there could be an internal problem with the compressor itself. He stated that when the compressor is on the car lowers. Well last time i looked when the system is fully running, the compressor, dryer etc. The bags vent air to keep the ride level while the compressor pumps air into he bags. If the compressor is failing it may be to weak to keep the front lifted and it may only have just enough power left in it to keep the back up. I beleive the front requires more psi than the back to keep the car level.
 
For 88-94 Conti's, the front bags require 110psi to keep the car level, the rear requires 80psi. I don't know about the 80's conti's but they probably require more psi in the front.
 
Conti, your right about fronts needing more pressure.. probably due to both the increased weight, as well as the actual design of the bags.

Compunuke has said (or at least I am interpreting it this way) that the front does rise, but will fall when driving, and if the car is level when parked, will remain level.

since it lifts, it definately takes the major look-see off the compressor, but if course, it could be weak, or vent valve problem within it.
 
Thats exactly what i mean MTB. If it is a compressor problem it may have enough power to lift the front when the car is still but it may be to weak. (air leak in the line or comp itself) to be able to balance and control the ride while it is moving. Because the compressor does not have enough power to keep constantly working. This is a tricky problem man. The question is, could ther be moisture in the lines, or perhaps a leak? and if so wher are the lines located??
 
There is a article in the tech section about 87 Continental air suspension it may be just what you need to locate the problem compunuke. Go check it out and see if it helps.
 
yea, I didn't know that article existed.... I knew others did on other sites, but I dont go to the tech articles here that often. that article looks like it pretty much straight out of a shop manual. either way, it will go a long way in explaining and troubleshooting the air ride on the 87!

Not that I am trying to bail on ya, but there may be more info in that article (I havn't read it, just glanced over it) than I can provide

There is 34 pages of goodness there.. along with wiring diagrams and full troubleshooting (including how to run the builtin diags on the system).

Would definatly suggest printing them out for future reference!
 
Thanks, everyone

The Lincoln is my second car so I am not rushing to repair. There is a lot of good troubleshooting advice above. I'm about to jump into the tech section to find the suspension article.

I'll try to remember to come back after finding a solution to post what the problem actually seemed to be.
 
Air Struts
I had one side go out in my 96 cont. I replaced both fronts with active coil overs from stutmaster. These struts by pass the load leveling in front, but let you adjust the ride frimness. Thats what strutmaster says. I took me 2 years lots of agrivation to get them to work. If the ride is not exactly the same with the coil overs as the air struts, the computer will throw codes and the car rides very stiff, Every tar line shakes the car and passengers! Lincoln dealers will not look at it, speed shops screw arround for weeks at a time, and give the car back basically telling me the car is F...ed up. Strut master says go look at the trouble codes and fix the problem.
Problem codes were left front time out up, right front time out down. This means the ride height sensors need to be recalibrated. This procedure requires a Star Testor ll. This is an expensive dealer code reader. I located one, and the recalibrate procedure requires the suspension to go into the test mode. This will cause the suspension to raise up and lower to test output of the sensors, pump, lines solinoids. Once this is performed, this star tester will allow the suspension height to be adjusted, saved, and thus calibrated.
With the coil over struts, the up down setup test will not cycle and the calibration is over, no adjusting or calibration will be set. In other words Strutmaster said they cannot help me any more. The car rides like a rock, and the computer keeps throwing a code.
I was able to fix the problem my self. Don't ask me why the engineers at strutmasters could'nt figure it out. I placed the car on a level surface, used a volt meter to monitor the voltage out put of the front ride height sensors, reaching in with a 11mm box wrench, I adjusted the sensors to the correct voltage. Turned the car off, reset the computer, start the car, problem solved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Now the car rides great, I can adjust the ride stiffness, no error codes and the rear leveling works. The bad part is, had I checked the voltage in the first place, I would not have had to replace the air strut with the coil over in the first place, a very expensive mistake.
Some times you just have to tell the EXPERTS, to go jump in the lake, and think for your self. If you have any questions and you think I can help, contact me by e mail.
Christo.
chris.stoffels@comcast.net
 
cold

I have a MarkVIII that does the same thing. when you park, the air suspension vents. the sol. at the air bag gets a signal to vent. What happens in the cold weather is the moisture in the system freezes the solenoid so it can't close off. It then slowly leaks down or sometimes its pretty fast. The fix is a new dryer or additional one, and new solenoid on the bag. Me, I'll wait until the bag goes out and then replace the whole thing, I've done these before and there not bad to do.
 
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