jmod issues, woes even

dnehthend

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drained everything entirely, drilled out my plate to the 97 specs (my car is a 98), and left out the 2-3 spring

1-2 shift is nice and quick, 2-3 doesnt seem to happen, well, maybe sometimes?

..the rpms shoot to the sky when you get to freeway speeds and doesn't pull at all, almost as if it's not engaging, I have to hit the overdrive button or pull it into 2nd to get it to go anywhere

the electrical connectors seemed nice and tight, could the issue be the spring I left out? I bent the metal tabs outward to hold the metal cap thing in place afterwards

this isn't my main car so I can let it sit for a while, but it still makes my heart sink to think that I screwed something up

it has 13 quarts of mercon v in it
 
Did you replace the 2-3 accumulator with the new style?

You said you bent the tabs out - you just mean slightly, right? You didn't shove that cover in the hole, did you? It should only barely be covering the hole, not shoved far in it. Did you make sure the bores are good and smooth? The accumulator moves within the bore easily?

It sounds like the fluid may be blowing by the accumulator so it doesn't complete the 2-3 shift. The spring out wouldn't cause any problems. I left the spring out of mine when I did the j-mod and IMHO, the 2-3 shift is HARDER than the 1-2 - shifts really nice and super firm!
 
it's not jammed way in there and definitely not even as far as the little grooves

I bent them just enough to keep it in there

I did not replace it, I had the understanding that a 98 had a sufficient accumulator
 
Well, it sounds like you're definitely going to have to drain/open it back up and check your work. I don't know the guru's here, but you could ask DirtyDog or Darrin over at the TCCoA forums - they might be able to give some ideas from your symptoms.
 
it's not jammed way in there and definitely not even as far as the little grooves

I bent them just enough to keep it in there

I did not replace it, I had the understanding that a 98 had a sufficient accumulator

It should be at the grooves.

Did you get the 2-3 accumulator all the way up in the bore?
 
The 98 plate is not the same as a 97. You have holes drilled in wrong places. PM me your email address and I will send you the pdf for the 98 drilling specs. You need another plate and don't need to be driving that car anymore.
 
it's definitely not at the grooves and I didn't even touch the accumulator

when I take it back apart should I push the accumulator up all the way? I didn't think to bother with it at all.
 
it's definitely not at the grooves and I didn't even touch the accumulator

when I take it back apart should I push the accumulator up all the way? I didn't think to bother with it at all.

The 98 plate is not the same as a 97. You have holes drilled in wrong places. PM me your email address and I will send you the pdf for the 98 drilling specs. You need another plate and don't need to be driving that car anymore.

There's your answer....
 
The 98 plate is not the same as a 97. You have holes drilled in wrong places. PM me your email address and I will send you the pdf for the 98 drilling specs. You need another plate and don't need to be driving that car anymore.

thanks

are they in different places or just different sizes?

does anybody have the part number for the 98 separator plate?
 
thanks for the super fast responses

I've only driven around the block and a mile on the freeway

hopefully no damage has been done
 
thanks

are they in different places or just different sizes?

does anybody have the part number for the 98 separator plate?

The plate is different in a few ways. The shape and the holes and position of holes.

With a 98 plate, you only need two drill bits. I have sent the pdf to you. I left out the bottom spring in the 1-2 but if I had to do it over again, I would have left the spring in. The shift was a little to hard. I could barely take off and I was chirping 2nd with ease. With the spring in, it would do the same when at half throttle or more.
 
98 plate doesn't differ in terms on hole location needed to be drilled from 97 or 96 for that matter. That's nonsense.

In reality all you need is a single drill bit to do this right. But that's not the point here.

Either the accumulator is jammed in the bore (should be pushed up all the way to verify alignment), you have cross leaks under the plate,
OR (very likely) the little two bolt cover (1 out of 3) is not installed correctly over the VB.

IMG-20120307-01154.jpg
 
Did you add any holes to the separator plate if so you shouldn't have.
This is a problem I have seen people do in the past.
with becontrols this was called the d hole if you had it it could be drilled out if not you can't add it.
Iirc 96 and newer 4r70w's did not have the hole.
 
I will verify the two bolt plate and that the accumulator is in there properly

I did not add any holes, only enlarged pre existing holes.

does anyone have a part number or source for a new plate?

I did think it was odd that a couple of the holes seemed to be the exact same size I was attempting to drill out
 
Look at this plate and look at yours. Does your plate look identical to this one?

image018.jpg


One last thing, did you drill this many holes in your 98 plate?

Compare the 98 on the left to the 97 on the right. Nonsense....

differentplates97nextto98.jpg
 
Compare the 98 on the left to the 97 on the right. Nonsense....

differentplates97nextto98.jpg

Of course it's nonsense. Current OEM Ford separator plate gaskets are the same for 96-00 4r70w and carry the following part numbers:
- 1L3Z-7C155-AA
- XW7Z-7D100-AA

Verify this with your favorite Ford parts depot. :cool:
 
Of course it's nonsense. Current OEM Ford separator plate gaskets are the same for 96-00 4r70w and carry the following part numbers:
- 1L3Z-7C155-AA
- XW7Z-7D100-AA

Verify this with your favorite Ford parts depot. :cool:

Where is hole #8 in the gasket I show to the right? When I bought gaskets for the 98 I done, Maxx didn't send me any that was missing hole #8. I didn't have to make up any holes. I see many holes on the pre-98 gasket that aren't even seen on the 98 plate.

And it's 1996-1997 4R70W: Use, p.n. XW7Z-7D100-AA. The second gasket required, is p.n. F7AZ-7C155-AA. I don't see 98 in there.

Either way, there seem to be a lot more holes in the 97 than the 98. Two drill bits are needed for the 98 j-mod, that is if you want reverse to kick in faster. 7/64's and a 3/32's and the 3/32's will go for hole 10 for reverse.
 
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/shiftybusiness.html

It just seems funny that the pdf I have for a 98 jmod is a lot different than the pre 98. It sure isn't the same as the link above from tccoa and I wouldn't use those drilling specs for a 98, especially when hole #8 ain't even there and numerous other holes are in different places.

Lets just say he used 97 drilling specs on a 98 and shouldn't have. They are not the same.
 
I posted some facts for the OP. He can do whatever he wants with it. It would be best if he posted the part numbers of the gaskets he used (from his invoice for example), so that you can update your info ;)

Good luck !
 
drained everything entirely, drilled out my plate to the 97 specs (my car is a 98)

This was the problem as the drilling specs are not the same. Must be a reason for them to vary and yes, seeing part numbers would help. I would like to see his plate now since it has been drilled. I sent him the pdf for the correct drilling specs on the 98. Either way, he is most likely going to need another plate.

When I done the jmod on a 98 trans, I ordered from Maxx and used the specs I have for a 98 and it all went smooth. Only 11 holes needed to be opened bigger, not 12 or 13 holes, according to the pre-98's. Specs are by "Jerry" of course.
 
Only 11 holes needed to be opened bigger, not 12 or 13 holes, according to the pre-98's. Specs are by "Jerry" of course.

That's only because the holes are already larger in the 98+ plates. There is even less drilling in 99, less in 01, and almost none in 2003+. Of course it all depends what level you're drilling to.

Please try and understand the specs, and what each and every holes does, and how drilling out them affects what.

The pdf you're quoting is not a secret. It came about when the Marauders hit the streets. Of course it doesn't make sense to apply the knowledge from 1997 since so many updates have been done. That's why Jerry tells you to ignore the article. Just use common sense is all.

I will take it apart, take pictures, and post the part numbers tonight

Pump out the fluid thru the lower cooler line at the radiator to save it.

The plate is most likely fine, unless you drilled new hole (don't know why you would, the specs do not tell you to). Check the three things I mentioned before, and report back.
 

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