IMRC Actuator 1996 MK VIII

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vietnamvet

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I found that my OBD Code P1537 is in fact the passenger IMRC Actuator. I have obtained a new one and ready to put on.

I need some help.

First, does anyone know the part number and source for the plastic part that hold the actuator arm to the Cam. I am almost positive that it will break when I take the actuator off.

Second. Is there an easy way to get the actuator off: I thought I might be able to take the actuator off by loosening the two bolts however, there is no clearance to take the bolt out.

Wondering if both the bolts are loose with the bracket come out or must I take off something else.

Thanks in advance.
 
I think I'd just follow the other thread and pull the intake and remove the IMRC's from the car. Do the intake and IMRC gaskets and clean the IMRC's. Deal with the actuator out of the car. I thought the actuator you got off eBay was no good. I know I pointed you to those actuators on the other site and I'm sorry if they were no good, but of course, I couldn't have known that.

I'm no expert, but I believe you can check their function off the car. If one or the other doesn't work, and the car, if I remember right, is going to a young lady, you could just delete the IMRC's and she would never know the difference. They only open above 3000 RPM I think. I'm not too much of a hot rodder and I don't even know if mine have opened recently.
 
plus low end it will run like a turd w/o several mods...gears, stall converter, ...j-mod?
 
Got used set on Ebay for $40. Replaced the actuator and problem solved. I removed the throttle body and gained easy access. Took about 1 1/2 hours. No more light.

I do have new problem now which is unrelated. Check out Low Coolant Light
 
Thats a smokin deal. When I bought mine brand new from Maxx @ Five star ford in 2007, they were $256.xx a piece. I had to buy both.
 
with OBD1 IMRC's, is there a way to know if/when the actuators start leaking?
 
dnsherrill said:
with OBD1 IMRC's, is there a way to know if/when the actuators start leaking?
Click to expand...

Buy a Miti-Vac and hook up to the actuator direct. Operate the pump to stroke the actuator and see if the vacuum gauge will hold. If it leaks off, the actuator diaphragm is leaking.
 
yea, I know how to test em...that's how i know I've got a bad pod vs. sticking plates..what I'm wondering is, without the CEL can you determine it's sticking open based on how it's running? or would it just show as reduced mpg? even though my bank1 pod loses vac, I still run good
 
Unplug the harness connection at the IMRC solenoid. They will/should basically be open full time with no vacuum to close them. You should definitely be able to tell the difference in the low rpm range with poor/reduced drivability.
 
driller said:
Unplug the harness connection at the IMRC solenoid. They will/should basically be open full time with no vacuum to close them. You should definitely be able to tell the difference in the low rpm range with poor/reduced drivability.
Click to expand...

Except that they're opened by vacuum not closed... without vac they stay shut via the coil spring on the lever on the rear of the plate
 
Sapperfire said:
Except that they're opened by vacuum not closed... without vac they stay shut via the coil spring on the lever on the rear of the plate
Click to expand...

i mean, no.

vacuum closes them.
the coil spring opens them.

Yes. i am sure.

think about it, an engine at full throttle has basically no vacuum, how is it supposed to open the IMRCs with no vacuum?
it can't. so the spring does it. then when you lift, vacuum comes back, the IMRCs can close again.

you can do exactly as driller says, you can unplug the solenoid and the IMRCs will stay open and you can tell.
 
When my '96 was constantly loosing the pass side IMRC I never seemed to he a drivability problem? Plus I had a long comute to work everyday on Rt78 and the car averaged 24mpg.

For something that would light up a cell light to make the car fail inspection it did not seem to hurt the car that much :confused:
 
revive semi-old thread....I'm replacing my 96 bank 1 IMRC pod (and maybe pulling the intake and runners to clean, maybe IAC, TPS, TB gasket..)
- is the pod elec cable disconnected from the top of the motor? or from beneath?
-anything special I should know before removing TB?
 
just starting to do some research; I've never removed the intake man, but a friend said that's the best way to replace the imrc pod
----looking for a good write-up on int man removal, I have the fact serv manual....any opinions on if I can r/r the pod while leaving the i.m in place?
 
I got lazy and misplaced some of my small sockets & ratchets, so I had a friend of mine replace it for me. It was the passenger side IMRC. He did it while I was at work so couldn't have been that hard?
 
he didn't mention pulling the int man I presume?....still searching...I should pull i.m and clean the plates, but i'm also wanting the quick fix...sounds like egr tube is tough to remove; my friend said something about lifting cruise cable upwards and pulling gas pedal cable forwad to avoid bending the TB (leaving TB bolted to IM)
 
dnsherrill said:
he didn't mention pulling the int man I presume?....still searching...I should pull i.m and clean the plates, but i'm also wanting the quick fix...sounds like egr tube is tough to remove; my friend said something about lifting cruise cable upwards and pulling gas pedal cable forwad to avoid bending the TB (leaving TB bolted to IM)
Click to expand...

He didn't remove the intake manifold because I didn't give him any gaskets for that, just the IMRC. It went bad within a year anyway so it didn't much matter :Bang
 
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