Dipstick Seal Question

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jbelcourt

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Anyone know the size? I BELIEVE mine is leaking, and I want to change it this weekend. I looked it up on Rockauto and came up with ATP Part # JO15. Referenced that on e-bay and the size comes up as 3/4" outside diameter, 5/16" inside diameter. I've never pulled a tube before, so I'm likely completely wrong, but that seems like a pretty big o-ring.

Is that the correct size? If so, is it worth while to go to a Ford dealer for a the seal, would would one out of this kit suffice?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...inch-thickness-1-16-1-8-inch-80000/5013186-P#

Thanks guys.
 
Just did this last week and I happen to have a few spares. :lol: I'll send you a couple for $1 to cover the stamp and envelope. Just shoot me a PM.

P1190268.jpg
 
Awesome thanks man, I really appreciate it.

I'm at work, I'll shoot you a pm a little later today.
 
jbelcourt said:
What size bolt is that? Any tips on accessing and removing it?
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Stop eating for a month so you are malnourished, then your arms will be skinny enough to get to the 8mm or 10mm bolt.

There isn't much room to swing a ratchet too, if you can get a 1/4 drive with more teeth the better. Dropping the exhaust might get you some more room but I've done it in place.
 
Use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a short 10mm 6-point socket. It really isn't difficult to reach from the top, but you'll be working by feel. I managed to pull mine, clean it, replace the o-ring, put a bead of gray RTV on the tube just above the o-ring, and reinstall it in less than 30 minutes, and I was taking my sweet time doing it. You'll need to drain ~2 quarts of ATF to get the fluid level below the dipstick hole.
 
I used an AC line seal (the green ones) They are a tad thicker in diameter
 
Markviiiedrea said:
Stop eating for a month so you are malnourished, then your arms will be skinny enough to get to the 8mm or 10mm bolt.

There isn't much room to swing a ratchet too, if you can get a 1/4 drive with more teeth the better. Dropping the exhaust might get you some more room but I've done it in place.
Click to expand...

Good thing I'm small and frequently mistaken as malnourished already :p hahaha.

We'll see how it goes. Soon as I get the seals, I'll see what I can do. Hopefully I can get it with no issue, or at least not too much.
 
OK so, I got the seals in the mail the other day (thanks again Rod!) and finally had some free time after work to try and tackle it really quick.

I tried coming from the top. I don't know HOW anyone could have done this unless they removed things. I have small hands and arms. I was able to squeeze my hand and about half way to my elbow between the evaporator and engine and I could touch the bracket arm. Either I couldn't find the nut, or I wasn't near it yet, but I couldn't touch it. I tried for a good 20 minutes, different angles and such, but I finally gave up. I didn't have my jack with me at work so I couldn't try from under the car, but looking down from the top, it looks like I could get my arm up between the right side of the cat and the frame and reach it or get close enough to use an extension.

Hopefully I can get to it tomorrow after work, if not this weekend. I'm at the point of small drips of fluid, which means I'm likely running it with a good amount of fluid shortage.
 
If you can get the car on a lift and use 36" of extensions you can put some grease in the socket to hold the bolt and have a friend guide the extension, socket and bolt while you handle the business end (ratchet). Its a near direct shot in from the rear of the tranny, and can be done in a flash (5 min or less). My car was on the lift for less than 10 minutes.
 
I have no access to a lift, unfortunately. Jack and jack stands are the best I got.
 
As long as you can get it high enough safely, a set of hands by the back of the block and a set on the ratchet should do it.
 
Couple straight extensions, couple wobbly extensions, some imagination and some luck....but she's done! Really hoping it's not leaking anymore and there's no other leaks.

Getting the bolt out wasn't that hard. Getting the dipstick out from under the car was a bit tricky, the bracket arm wants to hit EVERYTHING on it's way out. My o-ring was rock hard and flat. I had to look at the picture in here to verify that was in fact the o-ring, because I couldn't tell it was one. Sprayed it with brake cleaner, let it dry, put the o-ring Rod sent me on, put some Ultra Grey RTV on the portion above the o-ring then went at installing it again.

Getting it back in was tricky at first. Couldn't get the bracket to clear and go up towards the top. Again, it wanted to hit everything. Finally got it up there, popped it into the tranny then realized the bracket wasn't in the right spot. Had to pull it out, turn it, then put it in again. Hopefully the RTV does any good because there was tranny fluid everywhere after pulling it back out. Lucky for me, I have small arms and hands. Was able to get one hand on each side of the cat and reach up to get the bolt into the bracket and bell housing, started the threads then tightened it with my Frankenstein extension. Soaked my entire underside with two cans of brake cleaner to make sure if something leaks, I know it's fresh.

All and all, wasn't hard, even from my back. Was just extremely tricky, if anything.

Thanks everyone for your help. I really appreciate it. I'll let you guys know how it holds up, hopefully dry tomorrow morning.
 
You could have pulled the dip stick tube up from the top and also replaced it the same way.
 
I tried going up first and it kept getting stuck, then I dropped it by mistake and it fell almost completely out so I pulled from the bottom. Tried putting it back in from the top first but couldn't get it between the heater core hoses so went the under route again lol.
 
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