dccv resistance and voltage

9

92spi

Active LVC Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
85
Reaction score
5
Location
longview, tx
as the title reads, I'm looking for the resistance for both the solenoids on the dccv, and also the voltages the datc should be outputting to them. when full heat is on and is off. anyone got any ideas where to point me? this vehicle is a 2000 v8 model and has had some tree rats under the hood. lots of chewed vacuum and fuel lines and some electrical issues as well. oh, and the heat pad under the hood is still all there but in many, many different places!
 
What's the issue you are seeing? The solenoids are actuated by 12 volts, and the resistance is pretty low. I went through this last summer while trying to bleed my system of air (with a failed water pump hiding under its cover). I thought the valve was blocking flow to the heater cores, when actually, the pump was not pushing water. I did the test off the car. Now that I think of it, it may not be 12 volts, because I was testing with the normal input cable. I can't recall whether I measured the voltage, but the pinpoint test that you can use in the online manual should eventually tell you what you are looking for in terms of resistance and voltage.
 
milehighmikey said:
What's the issue you are seeing? The solenoids are actuated by 12 volts, and the resistance is pretty low. I went through this last summer while trying to bleed my system of air (with a failed water pump hiding under its cover). I thought the valve was blocking flow to the heater cores, when actually, the pump was not pushing water. I did the test off the car. Now that I think of it, it may not be 12 volts, because I was testing with the normal input cable. I can't recall whether I measured the voltage, but the pinpoint test that you can use in the online manual should eventually tell you what you are looking for in terms of resistance and voltage.
Click to expand...

no heat in the cabin. no voltage showing at the plug to the valve. new valve in hand-measures 16 ohms on each. cannot get the new valve to cycle when plugged to the car. wondering if the squirrels ate the wires somewhere I'm not seeing. thanx for your quick reply.
 
There's a pinpoint test in the service manual that has those figures. If I remember (big if!) I'll dig them out this evening. I'd strongly recommend buying a the service manuals and the wiring manual, as it sounds like you'll be chasing lots of odd issues.
 
92spi said:
no heat in the cabin. no voltage showing at the plug to the valve. new valve in hand-measures 16 ohms on each. cannot get the new valve to cycle when plugged to the car. wondering if the squirrels ate the wires somewhere I'm not seeing. thanx for your quick reply.
Click to expand...

You may very well have electrical problems, but that's not why you have no heat. The valves are fully open when not powered, so if the wires are chewed through, you should get full heat all the time.

The center terminal of the valve pair is common and it gets battery voltage the whole time the car is awake. The outer two terminals get ground switched on and off (very rapidly) to modulate how much heat you get. Ground switched off (terminal will go to battery voltage if valve is connected) = full heat. Ground switched on (terminal will go to zero volts) = no heat.

There are self tests you can initiate from the DCCV that will check for open circuits and short circuits. If any are detected, appropriate error codes will be returned.

No heat at idle, but heat at cruising speed is caused by failure of the aux pump.
No heat at any time is caused by air in the cooling system. Air in the cooling system is caused by micro-cracks in the plastic cooling system parts, a common issue.
 
thanks for your replies, gents. got the new dccv to cycle from a booster. installed it and am having issues w/leaking water pump. homemade gasket on it and has been leaking a little. bought a ford 2w9x-8507-ca pump gasket and installed and leaking worse. have replaced a lot of vacuum lines; fuel lines (wonder how that gasoline tastes to them!), and some wires to the fuel injectors. car runs well, albeit with slight water leak and no heat. also need a control valve in the a/c comp. will have some questions about the water pump gasket, as it should have sealed off.
 
What year? 2nd gen just has a gasket. 1st gen has an o-ring too.
You are unlikely to get the heat to work as long as you have any leaks at all. You should have mentioned that to start with. You can't bleed it correctly with any leaks.
 
joegr said:
What year? 2nd gen just has a gasket. 1st gen has an o-ring too.
You are unlikely to get the heat to work as long as you have any leaks at all. You should have mentioned that to start with. You can't bleed it correctly with any leaks.
Click to expand...

this is a 2000 v8 model. the water pump has 2 o-rings and they didn't come w/the gasket i got. this particular gasket was produced in the UK and is more like a head gasket than any water pump gasket i've ever seen. just steel; kinda crimped v-shaped around the pump and the 2 water passages. no rubber-like material anywhere on it. the only good pic i can find of the gasket is on the rock auto website and it looks to have some kind of rubber sealing material around the water passages.
 
92spi said:
...this particular gasket was produced in the UK and is more like a head gasket than any water pump gasket i've ever seen. just steel; kinda crimped v-shaped around the pump and the 2 water passages. no rubber-like material anywhere on it. the only good pic i can find of the gasket is on the rock auto website and it looks to have some kind of rubber sealing material around the water passages.
Click to expand...

That's what the gen II gasket looks like.
 
i just can't see a steel gasket sealing between 2 machined aluminum surfaces. i guess it could be leaking around one or both of the o-rings. just kinda lost as what to do.
 
it appears i have been trying to use the gen II gasket on a gen I water pump. someone please correct me if i'm wrong.
 
I show X43Z-8507-BA as the gen I V8 water pump gasket. (2W9Z-8507-CA is the gen II V8 water pump gasket)

I'm not finding 2W9X-8507-CA.
 
i stand (or sit-been a long day) corrected. it was 2w9z-8507-ca that i purchased in error. i will be searching for the gen I gasket forthwith. thank you sir for keeping me honest. btw, got the dccv valve installed-thought that would be the hard job today. ha-ha. thanks for the good part no., too.
 
joegr said:
That's what the gen II gasket looks like.
Click to expand...

That's also what a Gen 1 gasket looks like. I've had two new water pumps in boxes come with a crimped metal gasket.

Sealed perfectly. No sealer/RTV necessary. No o-rings on my water pump.

92,
If it's not sealing, then something is wrong with the block surface (bad) or the water pump surface (much more likely).
Do be careful to only take out the bolts holding the pump to the block. The bolts that hold the pump halves together look just like the mounting bolts and are right next to the mounting bolts.
 
It seems like they wouldn't continue to carry two different part numbers if there was not some difference. The parts site specifically says that 2W9Z-8507-CA will not fit 1st gen years, and X43Z-8507-BA will not fit 2nd gen years. Maybe it is something subtle like a small change in thickness. That could be all it takes to make it not work.
 
The other thing to consider is WHICH water pump gasket he is trying to replace. The water pump is two pieces on the LS (at least on my Gen2), so he's either talking about the gasket and o'ring that's needed for the water pump assembly, or the single gasket that's needed to mount the water pump assembly to the block.

Pics would actually help in this scenario.

Since he said there was a home-made gasket in there I am guessing he would probably be best served by just getting a new water pump that comes with a gasket and bolting it on and being done with it. Looks like he can get one shipped from Rock Auto for $60 or so.
 
oddball-rockauto show 2 different gaskets-one for gen I and one for gen II (lets call it crimped metal). they only show one pump for both gens. and i don't know what you mean by 2 pump halves. i pull 5 bolts and have the pump body and can see the impeller. my impeller appears to be cast iron. there are no bolts holding the pump halves together. i received the gen I gasket today-felpro 35845. it is somewhat thicker than the crimped metal gasket and has rubber seals around both water outlets. it failed to solve my problem, too. my water pump has a plastic distance piece that goes between the pump body and the engine block. there are 2 o-rings that seal it AND the gasket that seal the whole pump to the block. kumba- i have some pics that show all parts, but don't know how to post it. i may be better served to take your advice and order a pump w/o-rings and gasket included. put a ford de-gas bottle on this morn and then tried the water pump gasket. the de-gas bottle was well insulated w/scraps from the former hood heat pad! pick and pull nearby yielded a couple more wire harness segments to replace ones showing a lot of copper. i'll work on trying to post the pic. thanks to all that posted and will keep apprised.
 
92spi said:
... my impeller appears to be cast iron. ...
Click to expand...

I thought that all the LS factory water pumps had plastic impellers, but I think that at least one aftermarket pump (GMB) has a cast metal one.

I think that Airtex was the OEM for the LS water pump. They have a statement in the box with the pump that says this.

The OE manufacturer has changed the housing design on this water pump. Instead of a plastic insert with
an o-ring and a gasket, the new housing is all metal with a gasket. The raised portion of the housing is not a
sealing surface. The pump provided (Figure 1) may appear different from the water pump you are replacing
(Figure 2). The enclosed water pump matches the new OE design and will perform to OE standards.

They also included some pictures. The "new design" shows two extra bolts that hold the two halves of the pump together. The "old design" does not have those two bolts, it only has the five holes for the five bolts to attach the pump to the engine.
 
thank you joegr. that clarifies things a bit more. i don't know where you get all this info, but i'm so glad you do. i've spent the last hour or so fashioning my own gasket out of some 1/8" garlock mat'l, judicious use of some hi temp rtv and the correct size drillbit for the bolt holes. it is presently installed, but not torqued down too well quite yet. old navy habits die hard. we shall see. may still be a new pump, but i'm hoping. thanks again.
 
I guess mine was replaced at some point. It's got 7 bolts in it. Considering I've never replaced it and I got the car with 18K-miles on it things that make you go hurmmm...

Either way, I stand corrected.

I am going with the pump is shot or otherwise messed up. Rockauto shows the same pump for Gen1 or Gen2.

Might be time to take it to a mechanic. It's starting to turn into one of those things you can't really diagnose over the internet.
 
thanks, joegr. the dark portion of the old style pump around the impeller comes out and has an o-ring that seals it to the pump housing and a slightly smaller o-ring that goes up in the block. i can see where the three little clips on the crimped steel gasket fit on the newer model pump. tomorrow will tell if the gasket holds.
 
well, it seems the homemade gasket is holding up and i have separate and both sides of the climate control working. tree rats had made a nest underneath the brand new K&N filter in stock housing; probably a quart bag full of hood pad detritus. got a shower of acorn fragments when the fan came on high during bleed process. still need to install control valve in a/c compressor, oil, pump down and charge up. and figure what is keeping the advancetrac light steadily illuminated on the dash. may take the ford house for that. don't know if that will keep it from proper state inspection. abs, airbag, and check engine light come on and go off properly when starting. many thanks to all concerned and all that posted. with 2 ls's now, i'll probably be bending your ears more often. oh joy.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 346 (members: 2, guests: 344)
Back
Top