DCCV Replacement

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Fundy1842

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Good afternoon all,

Well, the fall and winter without AC has come and gone, and I am thinking that this weekend is going to be the time for me to tackle my DCCV replacement. I have gotten error code "27 98", and it appears that replacement is the only avenue of remedy. I have a 2006 LS, v8, of course, and have been searching through google results and forum posts, and have found the shop instructions for draining the coolant and replacing the DCCV at http://www.deneau.info/ls/.

I am actually more apprehensive about replacing the coolant than I am the DCCV. I am not sure where the "draincock" is for the escaping fluid. I have also read that I should check the "degas bottle" - but I am unsure what to check it for. Also, when refilling the coolant, I am supposed to (step 8) "close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant escapes during engine idle" -- should i be worried that some of this fluid will get on, and ruin, a belt?

I am mostly wondering if anyone has any tips for this process (either the coolant or the DCCV portion).
I have also read that people recommend "cleaning" the DCCV prior to replacement. I bought my DCCV in working order off of ebay, I am just wondering if there is any maintenance or procedure I should apply here. I am extremely anxious to get this problem fixed, as I will be driving to N.C. in the next couple of weeks, and while I could use it lol, I dont want to lose 10 pounds in water weight on the way there!

Thank you all in advance for your help. This website has saved me thousands of dollars, and I am hoping for another successful "home-brewed" fix.

-Branden
 
The drain is at the bottom of the radiator on the right side (same side as the DCCV). You have to work around the transmission hoses to get to it. It is a white plastic hex nut. The important thing here is to make it hand tight (or just slightly more) when you close it. Too tight, and you will break it.
If your degas bottle on your 06 has not already been replaced, it is probably cracked. You have to take it all the way off to check it. I'd hate to do that just to have to put it back until the new one comes in. Either replace it now (wise), or ignore it and hope for the best. Also, all the plastic cooling system parts at the front of the engine are due to start cracking now.
The heater air bleed is no where near the belt. No need to worry about that.

I would not buy a used DCCV. The maintenance or procedure to follow with the DCCV is buy new.

Tip: Follow the fill and bleed procedure exactly to the letter. Print it out and use it as a check list.
 
Thanks for the tips....I need to order one since I get some cold out of my drivers side and heat out of the passenger side after I did all the front/rear end work.

What kind of clamps did you use to clamp them off with?

And since it's on the subject...is the first gen a bit different procedure for the air bleed?
 
don't need to drain just replace the dccv. also if you going to replace it then get a new one they are less than 100 bucks at rock auto. all dccv fails so getting a used one of a commonly failing part is not a good idea just like buying used coils. you just don't do it
 
joegr said:
The drain is at the bottom of the radiator on the right side (same side as the DCCV). You have to work around the transmission hoses to get to it. It is a white plastic hex nut. The important thing here is to make it hand tight (or just slightly more) when you close it. Too tight, and you will break it.
Click to expand...

Just for illustration, since I just replacing mine and the old one is sitting around awaiting disposal :D

2004lincolnlsradiatordr.jpg


joegr said:
If your degas bottle on your 06 has not already been replaced, it is probably cracked. You have to take it all the way off to check it. I'd hate to do that just to have to put it back until the new one comes in. Either replace it now (wise), or ignore it and hope for the best. Also, all the plastic cooling system parts at the front of the engine are due to start cracking now..
Click to expand...

In addition I suggest that you examine the upper right hand (passenger side) front of your radiator and see if your starting to develop one of these...

2004lincolnlsradiatorcr.jpg


If you see a crack forming, you might as well replace the radiator at the same time, that way you don't end up working on the cooling system twice in a short period of time.


joegr said:
The heater air bleed is no where near the belt. No need to worry about that.

I would not buy a used DCCV. The maintenance or procedure to follow with the DCCV is buy new.

Tip: Follow the fill and bleed procedure exactly to the letter. Print it out and use it as a check list.
Click to expand...

Can't agree more on all three points :Beer
 
The Gen1 and Gen2 procedures are different. IIRC, mostly just in the location of the fills. The steps should be roughly the same.

You can get hose clamp pliers at most parts stores. Large plastic things with long straight jaws.

The degas bottle is difficult to inspect when it's installed. Most of the cracks tend to form near the bottom. If you haven't already replaced cooling system parts then it'd be wise to start saving and collecting them. Degas bottle, thermostat housing and associated parts, radiator hoses, etc.
 
Well, against all advice and sensibility, I installed the used DCCV into my car today. Granted, I am not a mechanic, but it took me a good four hours to get everything drained, disconnected, and installed.

Fired up the car, did the steps for refilling the coolant -- and no AC. Ran the self test got codes 2797 and 2799 -- same codes as with my original DCCV... Checked the AC 10amp under the hood and it was burnt out... Eureka I thought! Replaced the fuse, and no love, same error codes. Shut the car off and the 10 amp was blown again.

Is the used DCCV I bought still bad, or is there something else I can check before I order and new one? If I have to order a new one, I will do it tonight, as I should be better at replacing the second time around.. I just want to make sure that I have eliminated any other possibilities before I shell out the cash.

Thank you all in advance,

Fundy
 
if it matters, only when i first bought the car 1 year ago, have i ever had cold air... i am getting all hot air and not just from one side or the other
 
If you didn't test or inspect the used one, then it very well could have its own problems. This is one of those parts where a used one may not gain you much. "Working" on eBay can mean lots of things!

You might want to do some circuit tests to see what is actually blowing the fuse. Could be your A/C compressor clutch has failed (unusual, but possible).
 
If you want to try a new DCCV, Rock Auto has a Motorcraft for 85.79. They list it under Heat and Air Conditioning, and call it a Heater Control Valve. If anyone here has one and can post it up, they usually have a code you can use that knocks 5 percent off, which usually means you get it with free shipping. Rock Auto has been one of my go-to places for years, and they do a good job.
 
Thank you both for your replies.

Any advice or guidance on how to test the circuits? I am pretty ignorant when it comes to these things, but odds are that I have access to any tool that may be required.

I would like to check the circuits, but ultimately I think I am going to order a new Motorcraft part and just try again.

Thanks in advance,

Branden
 
Fundy1842 said:
Thank you both for your replies.

Any advice or guidance on how to test the circuits? I am pretty ignorant when it comes to these things, but odds are that I have access to any tool that may be required.

I would like to check the circuits, but ultimately I think I am going to order a new Motorcraft part and just try again.

Thanks in advance,

Branden
Click to expand...

The front panel diagnostic from the DATC does a pretty good job of verifying the circuits and the electrical part of the valve assembly. Run the diagnostics first. If one of the heater valve codes comes up, then you would want to do some pinpoint tests to verify that the wiring between the DATC and the DCCV is good. Here's a link to the wiring tests.

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm
 
Damn Joegr, you must be the hardest working member on this site - I see your name everywhere!

A quick thought, I have already ordered a new motorcraft part through RockAuto. Could I simply plug the power into the new DCCV (without the total install) and run the diagnostic check to see if I still get an error or to see if the fuse will not blow, before going through all of the trouble of removing and replacing the old part?

Oh and I know this is for another thread, but is it really as easy as it looks to paint my factory calipers when I do a brake and rotor change? I dont see why not?

Thanks!
 
Fundy1842 said:
Damn Joegr, you must be the hardest working member on this site - I see your name everywhere!

A quick thought, I have already ordered a new motorcraft part through RockAuto. Could I simply plug the power into the new DCCV (without the total install) and run the diagnostic check to see if I still get an error or to see if the fuse will not blow, before going through all of the trouble of removing and replacing the old part?...
Click to expand...

Yes.
 
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