DCCV Fuse. Check it!

I've been messing around with the system to see if I can pinpoint the issue better. If I let the car warm up to the normal operating temp, needle in the middle of the temp gauge, and then turn on the system the air works great. It seems as though there is nothing wrong with the system. If I start the car with the system on or turn on the air, the fuse blows right away. I unplugged the aux pump to see if that may be the cause of the short but the fuse still blew.
I think I can rule out a leak, compressor, clutch coil as the problem since the system runs fine once warmed up.

Am I looking at a defective DCCV that I installed, or could something else be causing the short to blow the fuse?
 
Hawk03 said:
I've been messing around with the system to see if I can pinpoint the issue better. If I let the car warm up to the normal operating temp, needle in the middle of the temp gauge, and then turn on the system the air works great. It seems as though there is nothing wrong with the system. If I start the car with the system on or turn on the air, the fuse blows right away. I unplugged the aux pump to see if that may be the cause of the short but the fuse still blew.
I think I can rule out a leak, compressor, clutch coil as the problem since the system runs fine once warmed up.

Am I looking at a defective DCCV that I installed, or could something else be causing the short to blow the fuse?
Click to expand...

Here's a test for you.
Unplug the DCCV. (You'll get fully heated air all the time). Repeat the test with the climate control on at startup. Does the fuse still blow? If so, the DCCV is not the problem. Let us know and then we can try a few more things.
 
joegr said:
Here's a test for you.
Unplug the DCCV. (You'll get fully heated air all the time). Repeat the test with the climate control on at startup. Does the fuse still blow? If so, the DCCV is not the problem. Let us know and then we can try a few more things.
Click to expand...

The DCCV and I are enemies, I really dislike everything about it.

What is the best way to unplug it? I tried from underneath the car, I can grab it and try to push it up but it won't budge.
 
The car has been at the dealer all day, last report I received from them was that the mechanic was leaning toward the control unit or one of the air temp sensors being bad. They will have the car tomorrow to run more tests and make sure its the problem.
 
Last edited:
Hopefully I am not jinxing myself here but it seems the problem has been fixed. The dealer traced the problem back to the compressor/clutch, which was over heating and blowing the fuse. They wanted $1400 to replace it all, I had it replaced at a local shop for $800. It has been blowing cold air and not blowing any fuses since Thursday.
 
Hawk03 said:
Hopefully I am not jinxing myself here but it seems the problem has been fixed. The dealer traced the problem back to the compressor/clutch, which was over heating and blowing the fuse. They wanted $1400 to replace it all, I had it replaced at a local shop for $800. It has been blowing cold air and not blowing any fuses since Thursday.
Click to expand...

Well, that certainly makes more sense than a temp sensor or the DATC module.
 
I own a 2000 lincoln ls v8. I cannot find the fuse whatsoever. I looked on the owners manual on here and it does not even mention anything of a DDCV fuse anywhere. Closest thing on their was the auxilary coolant pump and that was about it. can somebody post a picture of where the fuse is actually located at, i think this will help alot of people out.
 
rivasjl13 said:
I own a 2000 lincoln ls v8. I cannot find the fuse whatsoever. I looked on the owners manual on here and it does not even mention anything of a DDCV fuse anywhere. Closest thing on their was the auxilary coolant pump and that was about it. can somebody post a picture of where the fuse is actually located at, i think this will help alot of people out.
Click to expand...

#1 fuse (10A) in the fuse box under the hood. It also serves the AC compressor clutch, and it is described as such in the owner's manual.
 
Oh ok, i thought it was the relay fuse i was having to look at. I checked the fuse and the fuse was not popped. So hopefully i just need to put some freeon in
 
rivasjl13 said:
Oh ok, i thought it was the relay fuse i was having to look at. I checked the fuse and the fuse was not popped. So hopefully i just need to put some freeon in
Click to expand...

R-134a (Suva) not R-12 (Freon).

Not having the fuse blown does not at all prove that your DCCV isn't bad. If you add refrigerant (R-134a) to the AC and it was not low on refrigerant, you will make a $100 to $300 problem into a $700 to $1200 problem.
 
rivasjl13 said:
Well i checked the fuse this morning and it was not blown. Do i need to check the a/c clutch relay switch as well?
Click to expand...

Did you do the test that I suggested in the other thread you have on this?
 
Question: I just purchased a 2000 LS V6 automatic. As soon as you turn the car, no matter what time of day, night, after driving for a long time or first time start up when I got to work, the fan starts up going super fast. Car sounds super accelerated. I do not have the A/C on. I turn on the A/C and the sound is the same. No change. But I do notice that driver side blows cold air and passenger side blows warm (or just plain air). Can someone help? Could this DCCV cause both of these symptoms? And last, where is this DCCV?
 
Gunnmetalcura04 said:
Question: I just purchased a 2000 LS V6 automatic. As soon as you turn the car, no matter what time of day, night, after driving for a long time or first time start up when I got to work, the fan starts up going super fast. Car sounds super accelerated. I do not have the A/C on. I turn on the A/C and the sound is the same. No change. But I do notice that driver side blows cold air and passenger side blows warm (or just plain air). Can someone help? Could this DCCV cause both of these symptoms? And last, where is this DCCV?
Click to expand...

1. Probably.
2. No.
3. Right side, between the radiator and the engine (on the side of the radiator).


If the fan comes on high even with the engine cold, and the temperature gauge is working correctly, then most likely you have (a) a bad hydraulic fan actuator solenoid valve, or (b) someone converted your LS to an electric cooling fan and didn't use a thermostatic switch.

DCCV failure usually results in full heat on at least one side (or no heat at all). If your symptoms are with the AC on, then your refrigerant level is probably low.
 
joegr said:
1. Probably.
2. No.
3. Right side, between the radiator and the engine (on the side of the radiator).


If the fan comes on high even with the engine cold, and the temperature gauge is working correctly, then most likely you have (a) a bad hydraulic fan actuator solenoid valve, or (b) someone converted your LS to an electric cooling fan and didn't use a thermostatic switch.

DCCV failure usually results in full heat on at least one side (or no heat at all). If your symptoms are with the AC on, then your refrigerant level is probably low.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply.
The temperature guage works normal. In the mornings, or at cold starts it's on C, then gradually as you drive along, it start to rise. Until eventually it stays in halfway mark.

Funny you mention the fan being converted to electric or bad dydraulic fan actuator. The previous owner states he had to replace the cooling fan. Changed to what, I have no clue. Dumb of me for not getting into details.

How can I check if it has been converted? What should I look for? Maybe, just maybe it has not been converted and here is why I may think that. The sub-tank on the passenger side were the fan ATF fluid goes into has fluid. I got a minor leak somewhere which at one point it started making a really loud noise, like when a powersteering pump runs with low fluid. It was low and I filled, and noise is gone. But the fact that the car sounds like a jet taking off is another. I am just throwing this out there, I got no clue. :confused:

One thing I did notice this morning, I got work with the a/c on, nice and super cold. Perfect. I parked, and said, let me put the heater on to see if it works on the passenger side. Nothing. Had driver side at 65, and passenger at 80 and no change to passenger vents, same type of warm air. I will put the setting the other way around when I get a chance to see what happens.
 
I wanted to add, just incase it may help, that today for lunch, I got in the car, turned it on and put the a/c. Once I was just sitting in it, for about 15 minutes, I put passenger side at 80 degrees and driver side at 60 degrees and noticed that ABS and Traction control came on. I put both sides back to 60, and nothing. Turned off car, turned back on and lights went away. Mean anything to you gurus?
 
Gunnmetalcura04 said:
I wanted to add, just incase it may help, that today for lunch, I got in the car, turned it on and put the a/c. Once I was just sitting in it, for about 15 minutes, I put passenger side at 80 degrees and driver side at 60 degrees and noticed that ABS and Traction control came on. I put both sides back to 60, and nothing. Turned off car, turned back on and lights went away. Mean anything to you gurus?
Click to expand...

Yes, it's a possible sign that your DCCV is shorting out. You should run the DATC self diagnostics.

Front Panel DATC Module Self-Test (On-demand Diagnostic Trouble Codes—DTCs)
On-demand DTCs are those that are reported by an ECU when a failure is detected while executing a diagnostic test. For the DATC module this means that all faults (hard) that occur while the module is conducting a self-test shall be reported as an on-demand DTC.

* The DATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages such as engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. The scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
* The vehicle interior temperature should be between 0-32°C (32-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false temperature sensor DTCs may be displayed.

The DATC module self-test through the front panel display:

* can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
* is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show counts of 1 to 25 in the center of the display window. Record all DTCs displayed.
* concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given.
* reports individual on-demand DTCs as four-digit DTCs (less the alpha character).
* will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test.
* will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.
* will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.

To exit the self-test, press any button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory. If no button is pushed DTCs will continue to be displayed.
Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The DATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Front Panel DATC Module Display—Retrieve Continuous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
Continuous DTCs are fault codes recorded by the DATC module which have occurred during normal operation. For the DATC module this means that all faults (intermittent or hard) that occur while the module is in an operational state shall be reported as a continuous DTC.

* To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and PANEL buttons simultaneously, followed by pressing the AUTO button within two seconds.
* The DATC module will report all continuous DTCs to the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display.
* The DATC module will not carry out a self-test; it will only display continuous faults codes which are stored in memory.
* All VF display segments will light if no faults are detected.
* Individual continuous DTCs will be reported with the °C symbol lit.
* DTCs shall be reported as a four-digit DTC (less the alpha character).
* Pressing the front defrost button will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and clear all continuous DTCs from DATC module memory.
* Pressing any other button (other than DEFROST) will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and maintain all continuous DTCs in DATC module memory.
* Upon exit from the retrieve continuous DTCs mode the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.
 
Ok, sorry for not posting earlier. But I think I am out from trying to do the self test. The previous owner installed a touchscreen radio. I do not have the stock head unit which is were these buttons should be. I do got an OBDII scanner will that help you help me?? I will scan tonight and post what the codes are.

By the way, how can check if i have a bad hydraulic fan actuator solenoid valve?
 
Also, i just found out that I have a leaking Powersteering pump. I wish it was a hose. But I lifted car and noticed that the actual metal pipe that comes out of the pump, to the left of the pulley, had a blue material, like if they snapped it and tried to do temp fix. I fill to correct level and car runs fine, but would this maybe losig somewhat of pressure, cause fan to run on high all the time?
 
Gunnmetalcura04 said:
Ok, sorry for not posting earlier. But I think I am out from trying to do the self test. The previous owner installed a touchscreen radio. I do not have the stock head unit which is were these buttons should be. I do got an OBDII scanner will that help you help me?? I will scan tonight and post what the codes are.

By the way, how can check if i have a bad hydraulic fan actuator solenoid valve?
Click to expand...

Does not compute. How did you set the temperature on you climate control (your prior post) if you don't have a climate control?
The DATC self test runs from the DATC (the thing with the digital display and the warmer cooler, fan, auto, off, and other buttons.) It is not in any way involved with the radio, stock or otherwise.

So, are you saying that you don't have a climate control? If so, there's your problem. But, if you do have a climate control, then you can certainly run the self diagnostics.
 
Gunnmetalcura04 said:
Also, i just found out that I have a leaking Powersteering pump. I wish it was a hose. But I lifted car and noticed that the actual metal pipe that comes out of the pump, to the left of the pulley, had a blue material, like if they snapped it and tried to do temp fix. I fill to correct level and car runs fine, but would this maybe losig somewhat of pressure, cause fan to run on high all the time?
Click to expand...

The power steering and the fan system are completely separate systems. Each has there own pump, reservoir, fluid, and plumbing. An issue with one system (like the power steering) will not affect the other (like the hydraulic fan). Are you sure that you are looking at the power steering pump and not the hydraulic fan pump?
 
Wow, I am sorry for confusing you. If you would like I can PM you my email or you PM your email, so I can send you picture of what I think/thought was the power steering pump. I put the car on the lift, standing in front facing car, this pump is on the left side, you would say its on the passenger side. I know its the pump that works the fan because the sub tank I keep on filling up is the one on the passenger side with the steering symbol on the cap. (now i apologize, since I was not aware this car had 2 pumps that may look alike)

Regarding the diagnosis, I made a mistake also, I tried this at night, and for some dumb reason didnt compute where the buttons maybe, just asumed right away that they were not present due to stock radio being replaced. But I do have my A/C controls in tact. I will look at it again before it gets dark.

Sorry again. Let me me know of email for picture.
 
The fan pump is on the passenger side, and the power steering pump is on the driver's side. The power steering reservoir has a steering wheel symbol. The fan reservoir has a fan symbol. It's your fan pump that the leak is at.
 
Thanks Joegr.
I went out the car last night did the self test no codes. I noticed that on the display screen, the left side starts at 0 and the right side starts at 25. The fan speed goes up and down while the 0 starts to count up and the 25 starts to count down. It finishes and then it finishes and no codes. All I see are all the little digits turn on. So it looks like a bunch of 8's along with fan pic, celcious, etc...

What I did hear while the countdown was happening was noise inside the dash. I am assuming its an actuator of some kind opening and closing doing it's self test. But it does sound like it was (how do I explain....rusty?? may not be correct word), like an old house door that may need lube at the hinges.
 
Is the best way to determine if the DCCV is the problem with my AC, is to take it to the dealership and have them check it?

I am always hesitant to go into the dealership to have them troubleshoot. Just bought my LS in March and when I tested the AC that day it worked beautifully. Then a couple weeks ago I go to run the AC for the first time and I am getting hot air blowing out of both sides, though it seems a little hotter out of one side than the other...

Hoping it just needs a charge, but realistically from everything I have read it sounds like I need a DCCV.

-Sorry to hijack a post like this, but I have been wanting to jump into a DCCV thread and just happened to have the time today...

Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 411 (members: 0, guests: 411)
Back
Top