Yes... the blend door actuator issue

[Derosa01]

Greetings everyone,

Yes, I am confident that the blend door actuator in my 1998 Town Car has bit the dust. I am only getting hot air and have heard the tell tale sounds emanating from behind the dash. I live in Florida so heat isn't much of an issue, but cold air is. I will replace the actuator at some point, but to solve the issue quickly I have heard that I could disconnect the heater hoses from the core, basically at the fire wall, and join them together simply creating a loop bypassing core. I was told the A/C would continue to work by doing this.

I know it isn't the best solution, but I am very short on time for the next few weeks and the "quick fix" seems like a short term solution.

Any thoughts or insight as to possible damage or if this would indeed work?

Blessings,

 

[Markviiiedrea]

Well with your blend door stuck on heat the air from the blower wont ever get cool from the AC. That trick is only necessary when your heater core is leaking.

I did a blend door on a 96 a few months ago and it really wasn't a bad job. It's a cheap part and with a good evening or work, it's no problem to change. Have you checked for codes on the EATC? It will fault if the blend door is inoperable.

 

[no0c]

Well with your blend door stuck on heat the air from the blower wont ever get cool from the AC. That trick is only necessary when your heater core is leaking.

You don't know if your horseback or afoot. You really don't have a clue do you? Have you ever looked at a service manual for the car in question or any car for that matter?

More bad information, worse that no information.

All the HVAC air passes through the A/C evaporator, just like most FLM products, so his A/C will work just fine. It's called a reheat HVAC system, which works to dehumidify the air for better defroster efficiency. Derosa01, go ahead and bypass the heater core and you will be golden.

I did a blend door on a 96 a few months ago and it really wasn't a bad job. It's a cheap part and with a good evening or work, it's no problem to change. Have you checked for codes on the EATC? It will fault if the blend door is inoperable.

You did a blend door or a blend door actuator? There is a big difference.

The '98 model is not even close to a '96. A '98 does not require a pull back of the instrument panel and considerably less involved than the 90-97 models. Remember the generation change happened in '98.

Derosa01, drop me an e-mail and I'll return the complete procedure in .pdf form right from the FLM service bible.

 

[Derosa01]

Also, when I do an EATC test I get two codes, 24 and 81. I can locate the 24 definition, but can't seem to locate the 81 definition. I guess it doesn't really matter, I know what the issue is and have heard all the tell tale sounds and can feel the evidence.

I will be bypassing the heater core and hopefully in the next couple-three weeks get the actuator replaced. I think we are pretty much done with cold temps here in Florida.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Derosa01]

So I got most of it out, air bag, glove box, vent etc., but there is one location where the instrument panel outlet tube is attached that I can't figure out how to disconnect. Of course I see no way if I did to ever get it back in either.

Pulling the air bag and panel as well as removing the glove box and most everything else was pretty straight forward. Differing with most input I have seen, you do not have to take the entire dash apart.

The last attachment point of the vent tube is the one that is farthest to the left, closest to the instrument panel. The head of the screw faces towards the front of the car so you can't see it. I guess if I work at it long enough I will probably get it off, but getting it back on is another story. That is the fourth attachment point and hopefully the last. I will then be able to get the vent tube out and replace the actuator so it appears from the manual. Of course what I am seeing is a little different from the documentation.

Thanks!

 

[Derosa01]

OK... just to have some documentation for others...

My Lincoln's VIN states it is indeed a 1998, although it has elements of a 1999 as well. The door tag says 5/1998. Through no0c's gracious and thorough input and provision of actual Ford Shop manual information, my actuator and venting is a 1999. The picture of my dash in the exact one that is pictured in the manual for 1999. I can see the actuator if I follow the process for a 1998, but in actuality I do indeed need to remove the dash in order to remove it. This also explains the previous post to this one about the location and position of the vent tube fasteners.

So, with all of that said I chose to put everything back and simply bypass the heater core which I did. The car now blows COLD air and since I live in Florida the heat isn't so much an issue. Especially now that we are in spring.

Thanks everyone for the input and help! Now on to door motors and regulators and a drooping headliner. I am also thinking of removing the fake convertible top, but that may just be more of a problem than it is worth. A previous owners attempt to slow water absorption may have the roof rusting at the windshield.

Blessings!

 

[no0c]

So, with all of that said I chose to put everything back and simply bypass the heater core which I did. The car now blows COLD air and since I live in Florida the heat isn't so much an issue. Especially now that we are in spring.

That's not possible !

Well with your blend door stuck on heat the air from the blower wont [sic] ever get cool from the AC. That trick is only necessary when your heater core is leaking.

Glad you're riding in comfort !

but in actuality I do indeed need to remove the dash in order to remove it.

The instrument panel does not need to be removed, only pulled back to gain access to the BDA.

Now on to door motors and regulators

What's wrong there? Inoperative power windows? If so, it may possibly only need the drive clutch dogs replaced between the lift motor and the regulator gearing.

Dorman P/N 74410.

Good luck.

 

[Derosa01]

Well, the passenger side doesn't do anything and the drivers side sounds as if something is being dragged through a bunch of leaves. I pulled the door panel and gave a quick look. It could just be the clutch cogs, certainly has a stripped gear sound. Either way, my guess is the motor, window and regulator would have to come out. It looks pretty simple. Drill out the rivets and replace with bolts when reinstalled. The inside of the door looks really clean.

Thanks,

Gary