Window Regulator Replacement. How-To w/ Pictures.

The fun I tell ya ... it never stops!

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Unfortunately I did NOT have my orange juice this morning.

EXPERIENCED LS drivers keep a set of these in the car for when (not if) the regulators break.

They - "although are the orange glass holder suction cups versions" - were in my other LS'es clove compartment.
for a while, I was just using a Garmin window mount to hold the glass up.
It's a little different.
The door panel comes off a little differently:
(You'll have to pull so hard that you'll think you are going to break it.
The service manual doesn't say it, but you have to index the motor to the regulator. Bring the glass all the way up. Press the up button and let the motor run till it stops. Now attach the motor to the regulator.
You'll also have to reinitialize the smart motor:

Just read this again and now I'm stuck. I got the old regulator out, removed the motor and installed it on the new regulator. I bolted the new regulator assembly to the metal door panel. Then my mind just told me to come double check here.

So after reading, I've come to find out that I was supposed to run the motor before I installed it into the new regulator?

Just so I don't play cat and mouse having a text war here, can you clarify for me what I have to do step by step from here?

Unbolt new regulator, remove motor from new regulator, run motor via the up button til it stops, then install motor to regulator, reinstall everything, then do the initializing of the smart motor?

Also, my new regulator clips are set about half way down. My window is currently duct taped to the top of the door frame. How do I get the clips to the top of the regulator so I can bolt the window clamps to the window?
Use the window button to move the regulator clips up to where you can bolt the window on.
Initialize the motor.
Now check and see if auto down (and more importantly) auto up work correctly. If so, you got lucky and you are done.
If auto up bounces back (and you initialized it), then you have to re-index as well.
Put the window up. Leave the regulator installed. Unbolt the motor from the regulator. Press the auto up button. Wait till the motor stops. Bolt the motor back on the regulator.
You shouldn't have to re-initialize the motor. Auto up and down should work now.
Thanks Joe, jobs all done. I indeed got lucky. Still was a continued battle though. I managed to yank the plastic door lock actuator apart. Wasn't able to get the door to lock or unlock and traced it to the actuator having come apart. Got it snapped back together and all works fine. So I got everything back as it should be then did a couple more window up and down tests. Lucky me.. clunking noise when rolling down near bottom. Ended up being the new harness from the new 6x8 NVX speaker I installed catching on the regulator clip as it was in its travel path. I zip tied it out of the way, problem solved.

During my regulator installation process, I used duct tape to hold the window up while I worked. Once I was done, I removed the duct tape. Of course it left an ungodly awful residue, like the tape wouldn't even come off. The threading in the tape and everything was just completely adhered to the window and paint etc. Whilst trying to remove it using wd40 and shop towels, I got impatient and started scraping some of it off with some plastic wall outlet trim that was laying on my garage shelf. Big mistake. Tore some of the paint off the top edge of my door. Somehow I always manage to exponentially fk things up more than one could imagine, but whatever. Oh and that's not it. So I move to my drivers door to start taking it apart and install the next speaker. I found that the dealer super glued the small plastic insert flap that covers the two screws behind the door handle. So now that's exposed and looks like horse****. Sure I'm probably the only one who will notice it, but it's just another thing to piss me off.

Oh and it's still not over yet. My new pioneer head unit either hates the cold or hates me. It boots up, freezes, and reboots itself over and over and over until it gets warmer, then works fine.

This car has given me a major headache tonight. Still love her though. She's like a fine stacked sexy ass woman that gives you blue balls and your stomach hurts all night. Yeah, that's what she is right now. Soon enough I'm gonna smash her though, she been fkn me far too long.

Oh and Rig, those NVX N series 6x8s fit great, sound great, and blow the factory junk out the water. For $100, was a great upgrade.

I'm burned out, God bless guys and thanks for helping me tackle another battle.
I found that the dealer super glued the small plastic insert flap that covers the two screws behind the door handle. So now that's exposed and looks like horse****. Sure I'm probably the only one who will notice it, but it's just another thing to piss me off.

cant you just glue it back in?

My new pioneer head unit either hates the cold or hates me.

probably have a defective unit, cold shouldn't be a problem.
I've tried, it just won't ... I have the motor bolted to the regulator, it's all in, AUTO UP indexes to the very top and stops where it should. AUTO DOWN and even manual all the way DOWN, it stops short of an inch to the very bottom. Tried adjusting everything. It's where it needs to be as far as I can tell. I even loosened the clamps to the glass and pushed down onto it making sure when fastened in, it actually is at the very bottom of the clamp which it is.

When I AUTO DOWN without the glass attached, the clamps seem to stop in the same area, which I can then push downwards maybe half of what I need.

Any ideas?

Might I have installed the motor to the regulator just off by one or two teeth ... and the AUTO UP index initialization took care of the top but can't fix the bottom?

Never done this type of repair before, It's kicking my rear end right now.

I'm trying to reread the initialization some more and may have to take it all apart again and off set the motor, not sure :confused:

EDIT - - - -

Abstract: Door Window Motor Initialization

"A non-initialized window motor may allow one-touch down operation, but does NOT allow one-touch up operation."

Both one-touch UP and DOWN works just fine, just stops shorts from all the way down by one inch.
What brand is the regulator? Did you try loosening the bolts and pushing the regulator brackets as far down as you can. I have found that it is a pain getting everything so that the glass goes all the way down and out of sight, but I never had it anywhere close to an inch out to begin with.
I ordered the Dorman. I can try and loosen all hardware and attempt to push things down but it just seems to me all the nuts are back in place where the bolts come through the plate.

Drivers side which is not broken goes all the way down.
It could just be that the (this) Dorman is out of tolerance...

After my regulator install on the passenger side was finished, it went down to where it did before. However, neither my driver or passenger side front windows go all the way down. Both of them recess about 3/8" above the door panel.
Got it this time around. I removed the motor from the regulator again and found that where the motor stops at, it's not pulling it all the way down. Manually pulled both sides down, then fastened the motor which was already indexed all the way down. Re-installed everything and works as it should now.

I rate this job a -3 out of ten. There was no fun in this repair. Would not do again.
...I rate this job a -3 out of ten. There was no fun in this repair. Would not do again.

Until another regulator breaks...

(To be fair, I've only had one to break on each LS so far. On my 94 GM, they all broke, some more than once.)
My driver side front on my 01 V8 Sport started making some noises last summer, probably going to get another kick at the can soon I'm sure.
cant you just glue it back in?

probably have a defective unit, cold shouldn't be a problem.

Hey I just got off the phone with Pioneer customer service. I told them what the unit is doing and they gave me a case number after I forwarded my reciept from sonicelectronix for proof of purchase through authorized retailer, and they gave me an address of a local shop to get it diagnosed and repaired. If it can't be repaired then I'll get a new replacement unit. Not bad for a phone call. :)
2000 LS V8, original owner. Man what a clusterf**k this has been. Replacing the last original regulator, driver's door. Ordered a Dorman from Rockauto and had it in about 3 days. But it showed up with the cables un-spooled from the nylon reel that interfaces with the motor. Try as I might, no matter how I wind the cables on the spool it seems I'm either 1" long or about 1" short. Even with the old unit to look at. Back at Rockauto I see I could have bought the whole damn assembly, regulator + motor, for a lousy $20 more!!!

I'm open to suggestions but after way to many hours today I think I'm just going to order the whole assembly. My damn sanity at's risk :)

Time to tape up the window and pop a few cold ones.

honestly, I would trust a 15 year old OEM motor over a brand new dorman motor... but thats just me.

while the last time I did use a dorman regulator, it was definitely lower quality that the OEM ones I've used before...

and saving $20 is well worth removing and reinstalling three bolts, at least to me it is. plus you could have ordered the whole assembly and it still came all fukced up.
So I've gotten about 75% of the way through changing my passenger rear regulator with a Dorman regulator/motor assembly and am having an issue with the new motor not running. I plugged it in and hear a click from the relay box in the trunk, but no movement from the motor. I tried swapping the fuse with one I know is good but I still get the same result. All the related plugs look clean, too. Is there something I'm missing?
check for voltage at the motor.

how about a little more info to go on? like what exactly did you order to replace the old broke one... just the regulator? or the reg with motor? what brand?
Here's the one I got:
It's a Dorman regulator and motor assembly. Can't check voltage ATM, mostly because I don't have a multimeter or the knowledge of how to use it.

Okay, so I gave up and went to my mechanic to get this straightened out. Turns out the problem is that I'm dumb. I missed the lock that the motor ships with to make sure it all doesn't get messed up during shipping, thus preventing the window from moving at all.
Currently tackling this. .. pics and video will be in my thread

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