window clunks when rolling down

stumpie

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Front passenger window seems to go *clunk* about 25% of the way down. The motor still brings it down and up, but on the way up it clunks again around the same spot.

Any ideas on what might need to be fixed/replaced?
 
Your regulator is probably starting to fail.
You can pull the door trim off and lubricate the slides and verify that the clips holding the window glass are tight. If that doesn't do it, the regulators aren't too expensive or too difficult to change. (The door trim takes more force than you would think to pull it off.)

You might try searching. This is another common LS issue.
 
Is passenger side "LH" or "RH"?

While you're here, the rear passenger door lock is struggling to lock/unlock electrically. I can hear the motor whine but the lock doesn't engage. Could that be a failing motor or actuator or does it sound like a disconnected cable?
 
If you are in North America, then LH is driver's side and RH is passenger's side. With cars, the left side is always the side that is to your left when you sit in the seat facing forward.

The lock is another semi-common issue to look for. The lock motor/actuator/latch are all one and the same assembly. Some have been able to repair these, most just replace them. You could try spraying some lube into the latch before doing anything more drastic.
 
Thanks. time to pop the door panels. Should be educational.
 
pretty easy to replace... you should run into too many problems
 
Thanks. time to pop the door panels. Should be educational.

Hey can you do some of us a favor and take some pics of these door panels coming off ?

I'm notorious for breaking plastic fasteners and/or clips.

I just did both my wifes' Olds Alero door handles this weekend after picking up fresh ones from a U-Pull-It yard, ($6.99 each)
and well, let's put it this way, she missing a few clips now!

trade-off, at least the door handles work and aren't laying inside the skin.
who would have thought that behind that little reflector lens on the door, they put a Fn screw?!?! (it broke on one side)
 
The clips on the LS can take a beating.

IMAG0002_zps5bfe81c5.jpg


I've had that thing off at least a dozen times.
 
Rock auto says that a window regulator "before 07/03" is $150, whereas the "from 07/03" regulator costs $75. My vin sticker says Date 12/02. Does that mean I'm stuck for the pat thats twice as much? Wtf could the difference be?
 
One has the motor, the other is just the regulator. Oem sells the same way
 
Rock auto says that a window regulator "before 07/03" is $150, whereas the "from 07/03" regulator costs $75. My vin sticker says Date 12/02. Does that mean I'm stuck for the pat thats twice as much? Wtf could the difference be?

Sorry, by "not too expensive" I was thinking of the gen II regulator without the motor.
 
I have devised a free fix which is accomlished by taping thumbtacks to the window switches.
 
I have devised a free fix which is accomlished by taping thumbtacks to the window switches.

Less entertaining, but you could just disconnect the wiring to the motor.
 
its a 2003 (Gen 2) but the Date on the sticker in the door jamb says 12/02. Must have been one of the first off the lines
 
Okay, so you have a 2003. You should have gen II window regulators, but with the 03 model, that may not be certain. It would be best if you took a look at your existing regulator before ordering a new one. Does it have a smart motor (gen II) or not on it?
 
I'm betting this was some manufacturing eff up on behalf of Ford/Lincoln that we the unfortunate consumer now pay for in the way of increased price for limited stock of parts that were only used on the line for 8 months.
 
I'm betting this was some manufacturing eff up on behalf of Ford/Lincoln that we the unfortunate consumer now pay for in the way of increased price for limited stock of parts that were only used on the line for 8 months.

The LS was only made for six years, it shares very few parts with any other cars, and they didn't sell very many of them. We're all screwed on parts.
 
Well, right now when I auto-roll the window up from any position, it will clunk as it gets to the very top/closed position, then roll itself back down to the position it started at (clunking on the way down, too). I am having to feather it up to the closed position without the auto-function.

IMO anything that acts so dumb is usually a broken something smart.

But I will let you know for sure when I get in there.
 
Well, right now when I auto-roll the window up from any position, it will clunk as it gets to the very top/closed position, then roll itself back down to the position it started at (clunking on the way down, too). I am having to feather it up to the closed position without the auto-function.

IMO anything that acts so dumb is usually a broken something smart.

But I will let you know for sure when I get in there.

This may not work since you have a mechanical problem, but give it a try.

Roll the window all the way down. Press the up button fully and hold it. Keep holding it until a few seconds after the window is fully closed. This will reset/recalibrate the current limit in the smart motor.
 

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