Why won't car start?

[anselmo1403]

I own a Lincoln ls v8 2003. The battery started to act as if it were dying it first started to die quickly (5-10 minutes) with the key turned but car off, then it went to about 2 minutes until it would die. Then everytime I turned it off and tried to turn it back on it was dead so I had to get jumps. Now it doesn't crank even with a jump. Now its jumped by another vehicle when I try to diagnose the issue. Fuse #1 (starter relay coil) was blown so I replaced it and it started to work again (battery didn't die either) for about 2 days until the issue came back. Now the fuse keeps blowing everytime I try to crank car. It only blows when I crank not when I turn it to on with engine off. The main starter relay is good, I changed the starter and cleaned battery terminals but problem still continues. I've disconnected the gear selector switch and when I cranked it the fuse did not blow. Once in a while when I turn to crank it it sounds like it wants to crank but noise stops after a second. I believe its a short but I'm unsure. I've wasted about 20 fuses and want this fixed anyone know what it would be?

 

[LS4me]

Did you ever replace the battery????????

 

[joegr]

I'll have to look up what all is on that circuit tonight. It's a certainty that once this is resolved, you will need a new battery too.

 

[anselmo1403]

I haven't replaced battery but it was tested as being okay and charging okay, Its unplugged and when I plug it back it seems to still have full power for a while.

 

[1LoudLS]

if your battery dies after two minutes of the ignition being turned on, then it is not OK

everytime a battery is drained dead, it causes damage to the battery. you said you had to keep getting it jumped, sounds like a lot of damage...

 

[112 LS]

My LS was notorious for eating up batteries. I remember a few times I left the headlights on for a short period with the engine off and the battery never recovered.

Dead battery that wouldn't take a jump was actually my first dealer service call (circa 2003) they came with a flatbed and wound up replacing the alternator/battery

Thought it was someone here I read say the LS charging system barely put out enough to keep up with the cars draw, hence they used a hydraulic fan pump.

 

[joegr]

...Thought it was someone here I read say the LS charging system barely put out enough to keep up with the cars draw, hence they used a hydraulic fan pump.

2003 and up have an electric fan instead.

 

[joegr]

... Fuse #1 (starter relay coil) was blown so I replaced it and it started to work again (battery didn't die either) for about 2 days until the issue came back. Now the fuse keeps blowing everytime I try to crank car. It only blows when I crank not when I turn it to on with engine off. The main starter relay is good, I changed the starter and cleaned battery terminals but problem still continues. I've disconnected the gear selector switch and when I cranked it the fuse did not blow. ...

I assume that you mean fuse #1 in the cabin fuse box (there are two other fuse boxes). This is F2.01, and is a 5 A fuse. The circuit is a gray/orange wire from the fuse box to the digital transmission range sensor (DTR). The circuit then runs from the DTR to the starter relay as a gray wire. There are no other connections. You have a short. It is either the gray/orange wire, the gray wire, the DTR (more likely), or the starter relay itself (unlikely).
You'll have to pull out the ohm meter and find the short. It should be fairly simple.

Once you get it solved, you'll find that your battery life has been greatly reduced. Ignore that, and your alternator's life may be reduced as well.

 

[anselmo1403]

Yes that is the fuse I'm talking about. I don't own an ohm meter but will try to get one to test out these locations for shorts. In my original post I actually unplugged the digital transmission range sensor and no fuses were blown not the "gear selection switch" I mentioned (I was told it was called a gear selection switch). Wouldn't this mean the short is not inbetween the DTR and fuse box? or am I wrong. But I will still check with an ohm meter as soon as I find one. Will be back soon

 

[joegr]

...Wouldn't this mean the short is not inbetween the DTR and fuse box? or am I wrong. But I will still check with an ohm meter as soon as I find one. Will be back soon

Yes. The possible exception to this is if there is a bare wire near the connector and moving the connector removed the short. However, I do think that this is unlikely. I'd concentrate on the DTR first.

 

[anselmo1403]

Thank you so much! The Dtr was the issue. I've been trying for weeks to solve the issue and haven't been able to with 10+ hours of work. I connected my spare dtr and it started right up. Now the only struggle is to replace it since its only on jacks and I must lower the tranny.