What to look for when buying used 2001 Continental

JRiley

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Hello, I am new here. I am seriously considering buying a 2001 Lincoln Continental. I can't find a whole lot about the reliability though, so I'm hoping you guys can help me out.. Here's an overview of the car I want:
180k miles
Rust, but not too bad
Small amount of damage to rear bumper, right muffler strap broke and is held on by some wire
I think everything works (Or at least the main stuff, I didn't try adjusting the steering settings, using the CD player, trying out the driver memory, etc.)
Only mechanical problem I could tell in the short test drive I took was that the front breaks were rough. They would vibrate when braking. The sales guy said it might because the car was sitting out for a few weeks and got rusty brake disks or something. He's selling it for $1800. I believe he is willing to negotiate.
So what are some things to look for? The only things I have been able to find on the internet is apparently the Continental can have transmission problems since it uses the same transmission as the lighter Ford Taurus with a smaller V6 Engine, and some suspension problems. I don't know how much of a problem that is; apparently transmission fluid changes every 30k with high quality fluid makes that nothing to worry about. I figure if the transmission has run 180k miles with no problems I don't see why it should fail now, but if I get closer to buying it I'll have to check out the maintenance records. As for the suspension, apparently the air ride sometimes has problems but I don't know what to look for to determine how good it is on this particular car. And I guess fixing it isn't too expensive either.
And about the fuel... I know premium is recommended but is it one of those cars that absolutely need it or is it safe to run standard? Anything else? How well do the electronics and all the features hold up over the years? Is the Intech V8 a good engine? Just tell me everything there is to know about problems and maintenance with these cars.
 
Where to start? I would look at the things you would check for on any used car first. Front wheel drive transmission= expensive repair
Check the condition of the fluid and evaluate the shifts when test driving. You might want a mechanic to do this for you. When I bought my 99 their was a leak by the torque converter main seal that I discounted and it cost me $650 to have it fixed. Try to inspect the shocks and struts. They are expensive to replace. Also inspect the rear air springs for cracking which is a sign of old age and replacement in the near future. The aftermarket replacements are not too expensive and easy to install. Front ball joints should be checked as well as tie rods and stabilizer links. All my electronics still work although I did have to fix a brake peddle switch when I got it for the cruise. As for the gas you can use the cheap stuff it you want. It won't hurt anything although I'm sure some will argue. I use 87 octane in mine and it runs fine. Still has plenty of power. You'll get better mileage with the good stuff but not enough to make up the cost.
 
to be honest, if you are not fixing it yourself, shops are going to charge you more on the continental repairs. at this mileage which is really where parts started to fail you are better off looking for a more expensive one with lower mileage.
primary reasons are;
1. Air suspension, any suspension work and the shops will tell you that it has sensors so they'll charge more (even though it's BS)
2. FWD, front end work is going to be a bitch since space is tight
3. Transmission is about luck, you could get lucky and will have more miles just like the town cars or crown vics.

the continentals are very reliable IMO, but look for leaks under the car and see if the suspension components needs replacement. those leaks are the primary reason why so many them fail early. wet spots near the radiator could be leaks from hoses for the transmission cooler or radiator itself.
the air suspension should turn on everytime you turn on the car and then stop (no error message on the display) if it continously run for a long time then there's a leak. it should also air down when turning off and when you close the door.
 
What do you want out of the car? There are cheaper A-B cars out there. There are better $1800 cars out there if you're not looking for a comfy cruiser with plenty of reserve power. Go with a Grand Marquis for much of the same experience without the FWD transmission and premium fuel requirement. If 20 cents a gallon is a deal breaker you don't want a large 15 year old v8 sedan anyway. When this engine debuted in 1995, this kind of power was cutting edge where today any v6 import makes the same thing. The knock sensor will retard timing to save the engine but that results in higher exhaust temps and more engine wear.

Front brakes are cheap if you do your own work. I did my front rotors and pads for under $300 (all AutoZone premium) the week I got the car, and over 3 years later they're doing fine.

Just make sure the car holds 50-60 mph smoothly without any shudder. If it isn't smooth, the trans or torque converter is on its way out.
 

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