What did you do to your LS today?

AmsterDutch

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Almost have all the silver gone ...little closer to the goal
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Justin S

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Those calipers look good. Where'd ya get those? I cant seem to find aftermarket stuff for my ls
 

FDR

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Those calipers look good. Where'd ya get those? I cant seem to find aftermarket stuff for my ls
OEM Jaguar brakes. 06+ S-type R (NOT 03-05), various XF/XJ/XK trims/engines. Stock is 11.8/11.3 inch rotors. These are 13.9/12.6". They're nearly bolt-on

But yes, that is correct, you can't find aftermarket stuff for this car. Effectively non existent, especially now
 

BlacksonAudio

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Took more parts off the v6 and swapped onto the v8...
The header panel and halos. The new hood lifts.
Took all the trunk interior and moved it into the v8 including logo cargo mat and net.

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AmsterDutch

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I thought the coolant looked sketchy in the LSE so as always after purchasing a LS I did a coolant flush....and what do you know....the previous person had DEX Cool in the car ....5 gallons of distilled water and she is pure Gold now and running brilliant
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Robert Crain

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This past weekend, I installed new rear end links and new rear tie rods on my 2003 LS. On paper, a very straight forward project but with New Hampshire rust, this project was MUCH more difficult. The threads on everything were gone and the nuts were pretty much welded to the studs. Heating with a torch was the only thing that worked for me. Once I got the old parts out, the new parts installed quite easily. This project did test my patience. Here's several pics to give you an idea of the condition of the old parts.
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All new parts installed now so life is good again. The rear shocks are next on the list.
 

AmsterDutch

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This past weekend, I installed new rear end links and new rear tie rods on my 2003 LS. On paper, a very straight forward project but with New Hampshire rust, this project was MUCH more difficult. The threads on everything were gone and the nuts were pretty much welded to the studs. Heating with a torch was the only thing that worked for me. Once I got the old parts out, the new parts installed quite easily. This project did test my patience. Here's several pics to give you an idea of the condition of the old parts.
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All new parts installed now so life is good again. The rear shocks are next on the list.
Those parts look identical to mine...I need to get mine done before the snow starts to fly...if you have any questions about the rear shock absorbers here's a little help...it's pretty straight forward though ...I slipped them out and the new back in without removing anything else except the Shock absorber

Shock Absorber and Spring Assembly
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Printable View (140 KB)

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Item Part Number Description
1 — Shock absorber and spring assembly
2 W704790 Shock absorber upper mount nut (3 required)
3 W704884 Shock absorber lower bolt
Removal and Installation

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WARNING: All vehicles are equipped with gas-pressurized rear shock absorbers which will extend unassisted. Do not apply heat or flame to the shock absorbers during removal or component service. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.


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CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital components and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation is necessary. Do not use a new part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.


  1. Open the luggage compartment lid.
  1. Position the trim cover aside.

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  1. Remove and discard the shock absorber upper mount nuts.
    • To install, tighten to 28 Nm (21 lb-ft).
  1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Remove and discard the shock absorber lower bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft).
  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
 

lincolnfam

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Did you figure out the driveshaft as well or is that till a WIP?

Brought the yoke and flange I needed to a local driveshaft shop - got a custom one piece for $325. Almost went thru driveshaftshop but a friend told me about the local last minute
 

06Nick

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I watched the water beading
In other new’s took the car on its first long journey since sitting for 4 years expecting all types of issues. To my surprise the car ran extremely well and even got 30 miles to the gallon at 58mph for about 300 miles
 

Robert Crain

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Hi All,
This past weekend, I continued on with my suspension projects. It's a time and money thing. A couple of weeks ago, I replaced the rear stabilizer bar end links and rear tie rods. This time, I replaced the driver's side lower control arm and both rear shock absorbers. The LCA was making all kinds of nasty squeals and groans. The shocks were so rusted I feared they would snap in half and leave me stranded. Upon removal, I probably left about a half a pound of rust on the ground. They weren't leaking oil but were effectively 100% nonfunctional. All three bushings on the control arm were disintegrating badly. I installed a Mevotech Supreme control arm purchased from Rockauto and KYB Excel-G shocks purchased from Summit Racing. The metal casting of the Mevotech control arm was flawless and each bushing was marked by paint pen with an inspection mark. A good sign. It was a perfect fit when installed. I bought new OEM hardware from Tasca Parts. Each bushing used a different length bolt. I reused the original coil springs as they were in surprisingly good shape. I compressed the springs with a Shankley spring compressor and it worked perfectly and much easier than expected. A highly recommended tool. Although none of the parts I purchased were Motorcraft OEM, I did the best I could with the resources available to me. The car rides smooth and quiet now. Next spring, I'll get a new LCA for the passenger side.

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AmsterDutch

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Hi All,
This past weekend, I continued on with my suspension projects. It's a time and money thing. A couple of weeks ago, I replaced the rear stabilizer bar end links and rear tie rods. This time, I replaced the driver's side lower control arm and both rear shock absorbers. The LCA was making all kinds of nasty squeals and groans. The shocks were so rusted I feared they would snap in half and leave me stranded. Upon removal, I probably left about a half a pound of rust on the ground. They weren't leaking oil but were effectively 100% nonfunctional. All three bushings on the control arm were disintegrating badly. I installed a Mevotech Supreme control arm purchased from Rockauto and KYB Excel-G shocks purchased from Summit Racing. The metal casting of the Mevotech control arm was flawless and each bushing was marked by paint pen with an inspection mark. A good sign. It was a perfect fit when installed. I bought new OEM hardware from Tasca Parts. Each bushing used a different length bolt. I reused the original coil springs as they were in surprisingly good shape. I compressed the springs with a Shankley spring compressor and it worked perfectly and much easier than expected. A highly recommended tool. Although none of the parts I purchased were Motorcraft OEM, I did the best I could with the resources available to me. The car rides smooth and quiet now. Next spring, I'll get a new LCA for the passenger side.

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Keep us posted on the Mevotech LCA and how it holds up ...I really wanted to do this before the snow starts to fly but looks like I'll be pushing it back until spring..Great Job!
 

Robert Crain

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My first time using Mevotech parts but the new Mevotech lower control arm looked to be very well made to my eyes. The casting was very smooth and uniform, robust in weight and the bushings looked like they could take a real beating. And it fit just like it was supposed to which meant I didn't have to fight it. Of course, time will tell regarding longterm durability. The KYB shocks were definitely a noticeable improvement probably because the old OEM's were so far gone. That being said though, I like them and when it comes time to replace the front shocks (soon), I'll go the KYB route again and not look back. Another reason I chose to use the KYB brand shocks is because I have a full set on my Firebird and they work really well for that car. So far, the KYB's seem plenty good for my daily driver Lincoln.
 

AmsterDutch

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A couple weeks back I messed up my Left front fender on the LSE ...have a new one on the way ...in th he mean time ...starting the solenoid replacement ...I'm waiting in anticipation to see what the ATF looks like due to not having any reverse ...truth be told...just hope I'm not opening a can of worms

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tireman

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Egr low flow repair, 01V6 215K miles running strong. Ok, now I got the code again. I knew what it was. On the V6 just behind the throttle body, on the base of the intake manifold, is a little hole. this hole opens to a channel to the EGR valve. Carbon will eventually buildup and stop the flow of air thru the hole. So I remove the plastic intake tube, tie open the throttle so I can see past the flap. And sure enough, about 2 inches behind the throttle body is a lump of carbon choking the hole closed. I used a brass brush and carb cleaner and a pick to clear the hole and area. All done!
Next was a leaky coolant tank, bought a cheap one on ebay, they only last about two years then crack in the crevices. This time I bought a DORMAN tank, you can notice the difference, the DORMAN tank is twice as thick and 3 times the bucks$$$. However, the wipers arms over the years had rusted themselves on and needed to be drilled off. Damn it! Off to the EBAY junk yard for another wiper arm transmission. Got one quickly and installed. All is good now.
 

EJay58

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My passion is flirting with me to take her out on the Slippy Streets. Just finished replacing the passenger seat blower so Momma can have her warm seat this winter. Had to disable SRS and disconnect the battery which happened to reset my shifting performance losing that jerky 2d-3d gear kick she was giving me. All in all, we're all Happy Campers now.
 

ycunderground

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Well I decided to fix some issues, like replace water pump, tensioner, pulleys, belt, all new plastic thermostat parts. Fab an aluminum upper rad hose Y pipe, replacing the weak plastic oem one. Full coolant flush and add all new oem recommended motorcarft coolant. The transmission solenoid pack replacement and motorcarft oem recommended fluid and filter, plus gasket. Now she drives and shift like new. Plus front window replace due to a large crack. Hopefully sometime soon I'll find time to make an aluminum degas bottle setup to replace the weak oem bottle.
 

AmsterDutch

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Well I decided to fix some issues, like replace water pump, tensioner, pulleys, belt, all new plastic thermostat parts. Fab an aluminum upper rad hose Y pipe, replacing the weak plastic oem one. Full coolant flush and add all new oem recommended motorcarft coolant. The transmission solenoid pack replacement and motorcarft oem recommended fluid and filter, plus gasket. Now she drives and shift like new. Plus front window replace due to a large crack. Hopefully sometime soon I'll find time to make an aluminum degas bottle setup to replace the weak oem bottle.
You might want to just to order the Ebay aluminum Degas reservoir and modify it to your liking...
For Ford Thunderbird LINCOLN LS Aluminum Radiator Coolant Overflow Bottle Tank | eBay
 

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